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Discussion Starter #1
How does two kicker L-7 8's in a custom fiberglass enclosure sound in the back of my MKIII supra with about 300-500 watts each..

Thats my plan.. with cerwin vega 4's in stock location and 5.25 components built into the door also..

Amps: i'm kinda looking at orion right now..
 
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Go with 6.5" seperates in the doors. It can be done. Just get rid of the factory enclosures and fabricate some wood mounting plates. It can be done, just a little trial and error.

I personally would go with 1 10" or 12" JL-W3(2 if you dont want a spare tire). That would be plenty of bass.

And are you planning on using Orion amp for the mids too? I would try Precision Power, I ordered mine last week, they may seem a little pricey but they are worth it, I can't wait. They sound awesome! And what kind of head are you running all of this off?
And are you planning on getting an Optima battery or a cap or both? I would HIGHLY recommend getting one of the two, because these Supra alternators aren't all that powerful(80amps?)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok i couldn't post earlier so let me type this all again...


My head unit is the JVC KD-SH77

I want to keep the 4's in the stock location for goods staging and midbass and build an enclosure for the 5.25 or maybe 6.5 in the map holder area in my doors

My last system was 2 lanzar 12's and was pushing almost 800 watts with little problems from the alternaters or battery, But it was way to much bass.. yeah you could hear me over 300 yards away and it was cool but i got tired of it.

I will be getting an optima battery.. mostly for looks and a 1 farad cap for my sub amp..

for the mids i haven't decided on an amp.. i want a 100x4 though.. or a nice 100watt x two channel for my components and then run all my stock 4's off the headunit.
 
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Sorry bud, not to be rude, but 4" speakers don't put out much midbass. I have great staging with my 6.5" speakers mounted in the same spot where the 4's were. Building enclosures where the map pocket would be too much trouble and cost too much money for the results it would produce, in my opinion.

That head is a decent head, but if I'm not mistaken it has some kind of feature where you can turn off the internal amp which improves sound quality to the external amps. I think you would be better off getting a 4-channel amp and running everything off of it. You could run all the 4's off of the 2 rear channels and run the components off the front 2 channels. This would mess with your fading ability but I dont think that is very important anyways.

What amp are you likely using for the subs? I'm assuming you are going to push 300-500 watts PEAK to them, not RMS(continously), because I'm not aware of any 8" subs that can handle 300-500 watts RMS. Find the RMS power output of all the amps you are considering, because RMS output is what really matters. You might see all that crap they sell at Flea Markets such as Pyramid and MA Audio, they say 1200 watts on them or something, but that is supposedly peak output, RMS is actually probably like 200-300 tops, with about 40% distortion!:eek:

Why not hook both amps up to the cap? Are you planning on running 2 seperate power wires? I recommend buying a dual-amp wiring kit. It should come with 4 guage power wire, 4 guage ground wire, 8 guage power & ground wire, 2 distribution blocks, and remote wire. I bought the Rockford Fosgate one at Best Buy but my bro worked there at the time so I got it for about $60, retail is like $120 I think, but I still think its worth it, very high quality IMO.

Sorry, I'm not trying to insult your intelligence, I don't know how much of this you already knew. Well, good luck. Ask if you have anymore questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well think you could get a pic or two of how your 6.5's are in so i can see how it should look and thats what i'll do..


For the subs i plan on using a 1000x1 at 2 ohms... thats 500 to each with gains all the way (peak).. but i'll only keep the gains maybe half way... whatever sounds good. but its better to have an amp to big than an amp thats to small.. you can always turn the gains down.


wireing will be one 2guage wire from the battery back.. then split to (2) 4-guage wires.. one for components amp second to cap then sub amp
 
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