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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just thought I would share some of my pics that I took during my install of the stereo system. After I got done with something I usually snapped a quick shot of it. I do not have every pic on here, but the majority of them. I am not going to do the "IMG" tag, but just the "URL" tag because of bandwidth...I might run out.:) Here they are in order of completion and then I have some extras at the end. There are two pics at the end one you can for sure tell that the lights are out, but when you see the 2nd one where you can see right behind the back seat you can't really tell the lights are out, but the amp glows purple since the amp color is purple. You will see what I mean.

DON'T MIND VILLAGE PHOTOS...IT SCREWS UP MY IMAGES A LITTLE BIT, SO THEY AREN'T AS CLEAR AS WHAT MY CAMERA ACTUALLY TAKES. THE ORIGINALS ARE MUCH MUCH BETTER. SORRY ABOUT THAT!!!

My head unit (not pictured) is a Pioneer AVIC-N1 Navigation/DVD. In my sig you can see the battery terminals which have a voltage reading on them.
In the back area you should be able to point out the 7" monitor, but I don't have it turned on in the pics.

Enjoy :)






1. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PA260001_1.JPG

2. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PA260003_1.JPG

3. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PA270013_1.JPG

4. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PA280016_1.JPG

5. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PA260007_1.JPG

6. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PA260010_1.JPG

7. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PB080029_1.JPG

8. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PB080032_1.JPG

9. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PB080033_1.JPG

10. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PB140043_1.JPG

11. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PB070025_1.JPG

12. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PB140044_1.JPG

13. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PB190002_1.JPG

14. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PC060004_1.JPG

15. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/940856/PC060001_1.JPG









 

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SF's Cleanest
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You did a really nice job, but i think that subwoofer is ugly and sorta wrecks it. I would've gone with a jl w7 or something just bc it looks much better.

besides the ugly sub i give it :bigok:
 

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BOOBIES
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Nice set up, I'm also not really feeling the strange looking sub though o.0
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I like the sub with or without the "funky" grill on it which makes it look a little strange...which I think is kind of cool too.

I couldn't really just choose any sub I wanted...here was the scenerio:

*Mounting depth had to be less than 7.25" which would allow me to center the sub in the car. I really do not like subwoofers when they are off-centered and such. I also wanted to be able to fit the top in the car which is also accomplished with this enclosure and sub combonation...with the grill off anyway. I take the grill off sometimes and sometimes I leave it on there. Just depends on what I am in the mood to look at I guess.:)

*Power handling had to be AT LEAST 600W RMS (NOT PEAK)

*Subwoofer size had to be 12" because I wanted the sound of a 12" subwoofer...not a 10"

With those stipulations I would be glad to hear any suggestions that would have fit. I searched quite a while before I settled on the Kicker Square. I had the Alpine Type R and it sounded really good, but when playing CONTINUOUS bass on a test CD the coil got too hot...simply because that sub is only rated for 300W RMS and I was pushing more to it than that in a constant state. The sub was fine when I would just play normal music, but I didn't want to be limited to what music I could play.
After putting the Kicker Square in the Bass sound just went WAY up with the same power. It was a HUGE difference. Not only that, but the Kicker would take the power I wanted to give it too.:)

Anyway, that was just a small in-sight on my research. I didn't just throw a sub in there real quick and call it good...there was actually some thought behind it. I personally like it quite a bit with the silver face of the sub/black surround of the casing with the Black Vinyl...it just matches pretty well. I did like the looks of the Alpine Type R as well, but it wouldn't handle the power I wanted to give it.:(
I still overall like the looks of the Kicker better, but that is not at all the reason I chose the Kicker Sub.

Take Care and thanks for the input everyone. Should I take the grill off, or leave it on? Should I take a pic without it on, or do you think you can imagine it off pretty well?


Thanks again for the input everyone.



Take Care
 

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RE SE 12" 600rms, 1000 peak...stupid good sq (would destroy the L5 *I assume that's what you have*) and it's plenty loud. And guess what, they don't cost that much (170 bucks shipped) Really kicker solobaric's sound like ass
 

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Nice install and pictures! :bigthumb:

Good job researching your equipment too... Too often you see someone who has an awesome setup, but their equipment isn't properly matched and you know something is going to get fried soon. :( Too much power, or not enough sub.
 

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#1SomeGuy said:
RE SE 12" 600rms, 1000 peak...stupid good sq (would destroy the L5 *I assume that's what you have*) and it's plenty loud. And guess what, they don't cost that much (170 bucks shipped) Really kicker solobaric's sound like ass
I wouldn't say they sound like ass, but I still sometimes wonder how well they really perform do to the square shape. You have to figure part of the cone has to move farther than other parts during cone travel, so does that affect SQ?
 

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Craig, the cone is a stiff piece, the suspension is what moves (spider and surround) The square cone's are decently strong, not really any problems with them distorting even under high excursion. The benefit to a square cone though, is more surface area and thus more displacement per mm of stroke. This means they are slightly louder/more efficient. However the L5/L7/Solox are not very musical or good sounding subs. I still refer to them as sounding like ass :) until you show me otherwise of course. The biggest factor on sq I would say is the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
#1SomeGuy said:
RE SE 12" 600rms, 1000 peak...stupid good sq (would destroy the L5 *I assume that's what you have*) and it's plenty loud. And guess what, they don't cost that much (170 bucks shipped) Really kicker solobaric's sound like ass
Mine is the L7 which is 750W RMS/1500W PEAK...that gave me an extra cusion if I needed to throw it a little more power which made me feel a little more comfortable.:) In actuality I would really hate to be pushing it as hard as it could possibly go all the time, so I thought it was nice to have that extra 150W RMS cushion.

Anyway, I have never heard of "RE SE", so if I would have seen that ad I would have never bought it just simply because I have never heard them and have never heard the name before.

I am definately not going to get into a "my sub sounds better than blah blah blah" war because that is all about taste and everyone is different.

I will say though that I personally think my whole system together sounds really good...probably above average...don't get me wrong I am NOT saying it sounds the BEST in the world or anything like that.
I just know that the overall system does not only sound good to me, but pretty much anyone who has set in the car and listens to the system compliments the overall sound right and left without me saying one word to them about what I think of it. Most people will say "that sounds pretty good" to anyone with a system just out of kindness, but the people that I have shown say MUCH more than that about the overall sound output and quality.
I make sure not to say anything about what I think, or what could be better about the system because I want more of what their true feelings are on the overall sound of the system.

Anyway, thanks for the input of the sub name. I have never heard of it before and have never heard the speaker, but sounds like it would have been a pretty good choice except for the power handling wouldn't have stood out too much. I might have "settled" for that power handling if I didn't have any other choice and I knew what the sub actually sounded like.

You can talk about systems all day long until you are blue in the face though. There are SOOOO many variables and SOOOOO many opinions that disagree on what sounds the best, etc.

Thanks again for the input.



Take Care
 

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Discussion Starter #13
#1SomeGuy said:
Craig, the cone is a stiff piece, the suspension is what moves (spider and surround) The square cone's are decently strong, not really any problems with them distorting even under high excursion. The benefit to a square cone though, is more surface area and thus more displacement per mm of stroke. This means they are slightly louder/more efficient. However the L5/L7/Solox are not very musical or good sounding subs. I still refer to them as sounding like ass :) until you show me otherwise of course. The biggest factor on sq I would say is the motor.

One VERY important thing that I noticed with the Kicker that I don't quite understand...

You know when you have the stereo on and the bass sounds really good and then you lift the hatch, stand in the back area and you hear the woofer distorting-like, but when you were just in the car you couldn't hear that distortion sound....

...well the Kicker square doesn't do that. You can play it very loud with the hatch up and you can't hear that distorting-like sound if you know what I am talking about. My Alpine Type-R and pretty much any other sub I have heard did this, but the Kicker square didn't.
I also noticed that the Bass sounds gets out of the car MUCH MUCH more with the kicker square! With the Alpine Type-R you couldn't hardly hear the bass at all with the hatch open looking at the monitor and such while standing in the back area. With the Kicker square you could NOTICABLY tell a BIG difference in listening to it with the hatch open...you can actually hear bass pretty well. with the hatch open.:)

Anyway, just thought I would share a little info with everyone on here.


Take Care
 

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Well if the RE SE isnt enough, the RE SX (under 300 bucks) is 1000rms, 2000 peak and would eat up 600rms like no other. I own two sets of RE subs, two RE RE 10's and two RE HC 15's. The RE 10's I've sent up to 300rms each to (rated 175rms) and the HC 15's I've sent 1800rms each to (rated 1200rms) both took it like a champ. They are VERY tough, well built subs.

Not to bash the system at all...but a lot of people mistake loud for good sound quality. I've sat in quite a few cars, some with a decent low end but they definetly aren't sq systems and balanced well tuned...but I would still say they are "pretty good" in some cases. It's hard to explain, but sq and just having a loud ass system are two different things.

As for the trunk thing...well, there are several factors. It has to do with the vehicle, the install/enclsorue, the mechanical noise, etc...it really depends. I really doubt it has anything to do with the sub itself though....my RE's don't sound bad when the trunk is open, but obviously they aren't stupid loud outside of the trunk (which I'm fine with, I like my music inside not out)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
#1SomeGuy said:
Well if the RE SE isnt enough, the RE SX (under 300 bucks) is 1000rms, 2000 peak and would eat up 600rms like no other. I own two sets of RE subs, two RE RE 10's and two RE HC 15's. The RE 10's I've sent up to 300rms each to (rated 175rms) and the HC 15's I've sent 1800rms each to (rated 1200rms) both took it like a champ. They are VERY tough, well built subs.

Not to bash the system at all...but a lot of people mistake loud for good sound quality. I've sat in quite a few cars, some with a decent low end but they definetly aren't sq systems and balanced well tuned...but I would still say they are "pretty good" in some cases. It's hard to explain, but sq and just having a loud ass system are two different things.

As for the trunk thing...well, there are several factors. It has to do with the vehicle, the install/enclsorue, the mechanical noise, etc...it really depends. I really doubt it has anything to do with the sub itself though....my RE's don't sound bad when the trunk is open, but obviously they aren't stupid loud outside of the trunk (which I'm fine with, I like my music inside not out)
I do understand the difference between "loud" and "SQ" and most of the "SQ" is mixing in the highs, mids and lows all together to get a balanced sound and of course that comes with quite a bit of tuning. Please don't mistake me for saying my system is the BEST sounding system out there because it is NOT that...I just wanted something that sounded decently clean and went loud at the same time. I am happy with how everything in the car sounds and I have listened to MANY other systems and have been into car audio for years now.
Like I said before...there are some audiophile people that have set in the car and thought it sounded really clean as well...not just loud.

My whole goal with the system:

*~138db
*nice clean sound
*BIG FACTOR HERE...Weight could not be overboard
*Top had to go in the car meaning sub had to have a 7" mounting depth
*Sub had to be centered in the hatch area...again meaning the sub had to have a 7" mounting depth
*Sub had to have at least 600W RMS, but the 750 is probably what I really should have put since the Kicker is what I was basing that wattage on
*Sub had to look good since I was going on appearance too


What is the mounting depth of the 12" Sub you are referring to anyway? The 600W 12" sub and the 1000w 12" sub? Do you have a link to it so I can see what it looks like? It sounds like it is a really good sub going by your recommendation...please don't mistake me for saying your sub is crap or anything like that!! I have never heard your sub, or ever heard of it for that matter. I am sure there are other subs out there too that I haven't heard of that possibly fit my description, but someone I guess can only research for so long.:)
Could you please tell me the answer to the questions typed above? I would appreciate it for future reference.

Thanks


Take Care
 

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BOOBIES
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You haven't been checking this section of the forums often enough if you still haven't heard about RE :p

I btw have the sub he's recommended to you, the SE 12"... really good.
 

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He has the SE 12, I have the RE and HC (the SX replaced the HC)
www.reaudio.com

I have all the specs kicking around ... ahh, 6.75" mounting depth on the SE, but I dont have the specs on the SX for mounting depth. But honestly, it says 600rms, it will take 600rms and then some without a problem. I've seen people throw over 2000rms at the SE and it takes it like a champ. They are awesome subs :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
#1SomeGuy said:
He has the SE 12, I have the RE and HC (the SX replaced the HC)
www.reaudio.com

I have all the specs kicking around ... ahh, 6.75" mounting depth on the SE, but I dont have the specs on the SX for mounting depth. But honestly, it says 600rms, it will take 600rms and then some without a problem. I've seen people throw over 2000rms at the SE and it takes it like a champ. They are awesome subs :)
If I would have heard one of these and thought it sounded really good to my own ears I would have more than likely bought one just because the mounting depth and the power handling will suit me well, but I would have NEVER found this sub unless I would have looked on here. I searched Yahoo for RE SE, RE SX and came up with absolutely nothing and then I searched e-bay for it....nothing. When was this company created anyway? They definately need to do a little more advertising.

This would be a sub to seriously consider for me...I can't beleive I found another sub with the specs that I need!!! The only thing that concerns me is why they only recommend .16 cu ft and also I really don't like the looks of it very much at all. The sound would definately have to be VERY good because I want the looks too. Regardless...the looks only will not drive me away, but I doubt I will be changing the sub anytime soon.
Hell...maybe I will just for the hell of it and see how it sounds.:)

Thanks for the recommendation...I really appreciate it. It still blows my mind that there is another sub out there that has the mounting depth I need and even .25" smaller with 250W RMS MORE power handling!!!


Thanks again and take care.
 

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You might need to search resonant engineering (RE) to find them. Even then, they aren't a huge brand...but make amazing products. They are SUPER sexy when you see them though, the motor structure is absolutly huge and they're so clean, no bling to them at all.
http://someforum.net/RE/HC1.jpg
http://someforum.net/RE/HC2.jpg
http://someforum.net/RE/HC3.jpg
http://someforum.net/RE/HC4.jpg
http://someforum.net/RE/HC5.jpg
http://someforum.net/RE/HC6.jpg

There's my beasts...they weigh a bit more then 40lbs each (they are one of the larger/heavier RE woofers) but they sound soooo amazing and get rediculous down low.

Recommending 0.16cf? I think that's the displacement of the driver...they require slightly larger enclosures then that...and really start to shine in ported enclosures.

Here is the RE info I have:
Code:
R.E. Audio Inc. 2004 T/S Parameter				
[code]

	RE8	RE10	RE12	
Fs	22.8 Hz	21.5 Hz	20.0 Hz	
Re	3.2 DVC	3.2 DVC	3.2 DVC	
Qms	4.21	4.37	4.27	
Qes	0.38	0.39	0.42	
Qts	0.34	0.36	0.38	
Sd cm2	195	322	500	
Vas	27.1 l	75.6 l	182 l	
Xmax 	12mm	12mm	12mm	
BL	15.4	15.4	15.4	
SPL	81.2	84.7	87.3	
RMS	175 W	175 W	175 W	
Max	250 W	250 W	250 W	
				
Additional info				
				
Cutout	7.25	n/a	n/a	
Disp.	0.09	n/a	n/a	
Mndepth	4"	5"	5.75"	
Weight	n/a	n/a	n/a	
				
				
	SE10	SE12	SE15	
Fs	26.6	25.1	22	
Re	2.8	2.8	2.8	
Qms	4.4	4.5	4.3	
Qes	0.46	0.49	0.55	
Qts	0.42	0.44	0.49	
Sd cm2	310	480	810	
Vas	31l	171l	209l	
Xmax	18mm	18mm	18mm	
BL	17.7	17.7	17.7	
SPL	83.2	86.1	88	
RMS	600	600	600	
Max	1000	1000	1000	
				
Additional info				
				
Cutout	9.25"	11 1/8"	14 1/8"	
Disp	0.14 cf	0.15 cf	0.17 cf	
Mndepth	6"	6.75"	7.75"	
Weight	10 kilo	10 kilo	10 kilo	
				
				
	SX10	SX12	SX15	SX18
Fs	30.7	30.6	27.8	33.2
Re	1.9	1.9	1.9	1.9
Qms	4.3	4.4	4.7	6.1
Qes	0.29	0.32	0.38	0.53
Qts	0.27	0.3	0.35	0.48
Sd cm2	310	480	810	1210
Vas	21.8	47.6	126.3	159
Xmax 	20mm	20mm	20mm	20mm
BL	21	21	21	21
SPL 	85.2	88.1	90.4	92.7
RMS	1000	1000	1000	1000
Max	2000	2000	2000	2000
				
Additional info				
				
Cutout	9.25"	11 1/8"	14 1/8"	16 3/4"
Disp	n/a	n/a	n/a	n/a
Mndepth	n/a	n/a	n/a	n/a
Weight	n/a	n/a	n/a	n/a
				
				
	XXX10	XXX12	XXX15	XXX18
Fs	28.4 Hz	27.0 Hz	28.0 Hz	29.0 Hz
Re	1.9 DVC	1.9 DVC	1.9 DVC	1.9 DVC
Qms	4.31	4.52	4.68	5.09
Qes	0.42	0.44	0.55	0.64
Qts	0.38	0.4	0.49	0.59
Sd cm2	310	480	810	1210
Vas	23.5 l	56.5 l	123.3 l	244.2 l
Xmax	32mm	32mm	32mm	32mm
BL	17.1	17.1	17.1	17.1
SPL	82.9	85.9	88.7	91.8
RMS	1600 W	1600 W	1600 W	1600 W
Max	2500 W	2500 W	2500 W	2500 W
				
Additional info				
				
Cutout	9.25"	11 1/8"	14 1/8"	16 3/4"
Disp	0.18 cf	0.19 cf	0.21 cf 	0.25 cf
Mndepth	7.25"	8"	9"	10.75"
Weight	28 kilo	28 kilo	28 kilo	28 kilo
RE8- $49
RE10- $59
RE12- $69

SE10- $149
SE12- $169
SE15- $199

SX10- $239
SX12- $249
SX15- $269
SX18- $309

XXX10- $359
XXX12- $369
XXX15- $399
XXX18- $429

MT10- $409
MT12- $419
MT15- $449
MT18- $479

there is a $25 charge to upgrade the MT or XXX line to a quad voice coil configuration.

Shipping Included
RE8- $56
RE10- $66
RE12- $76
RE Comp- $165 set

SE10- $165
SE12- $185
SE15- $215

SX10- $260
SX12- $270
SX15- $290
SX18- $320

XXX10- $395
XXX12- $405
XXX15- $435
XXX18- $475
XXX6.5- $249 pair

MT10- $445
MT12- $455
MT15- $485
MT18- $525
[/code]
 
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