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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 95 turbo. The problem that I am having is when I start my car it suddenly stalls. It did that once before I put on my single turbo, but then magicly it started up and ran fine. My check engine light came on after it started up, which was "mass air flow circuit." Now it stalls suddenly and the check engine light is no longer on. And now when I turn the car to the on position I hear a hissssss noise from the IAC valve. Or is it the fuel by the injectors? Not sure though. I did convert my fuel pump ecu to the 12volt mod, but I did that a few weeks ago and never had a problem since. Please help me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
But if I give it dome gas it wont kill, but the moment I take my foot off the gas it will try to idle and then suddenly kill.
 

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I love sequentials!
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Check to make sure your air flow meter is plugged in, or whatever you are using (vpc, aem) so that you know it has a pressure signal and temperature signal.

Test for vacuum leaks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
But the car first stalled all the time then magicly it started up and the MAF sensor check engine light came on. For about 2 weeks the car ran fine. The the other day the car did the same thing as before, stalling right after I start it.
 
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mine did the same thing, started up and ran for a sec and then stalled, it was running ass rich, replaced some vac hoses...... problem solved, i guess that was the problem..try that out
 

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When cars say, "NO MORE!"
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if you looked at the guide it would show you things to check in order... fuel pump control, then MAF, then IAC.

I can almost positively say its not the fuel pump control...so being you threw a maf code i would suspect that being MAFs do go bad...or its prob your IAC. A vacuum leak is not out of the question either.
 

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Check that the VSV + vacuum hoses to the FPR are still connected and intact. You may be experiencing vapor lock in the hot weather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
WOW, I finally figured it out, once I unplug the MAF meter the car starts up and runs, but the moment I plug it back in and restart my car the car stalls again.
 

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Boost4fun
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So you got it-your MAF went bad. Time to put in an AEM or MAP ECU ;-))
Gerd
 

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mine does this too w/ a map-ecu. until it warms up, it will stall once or twice when you left off the gas.

i haven't had time to really investigate the problem...

- chuck
 

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Just had HKS 264 Cams, Cam Gears and a new battery (smaller; hawker type) installed. On a cold start it will stall out once it turns over, it hits 1k rpms then drops to 0. If I start it up and immediately get on the gas a bit it will hold for awhile and I slowly let off to see if it stalls out again. Its weird, only happens when the engine is cold...if I just had a drive and turn off the car and turn back on like 10 minutes later its fine and starts up good.
 

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Marc-P said:
Just had HKS 264 Cams, Cam Gears and a new battery (smaller; hawker type) installed. On a cold start it will stall out once it turns over, it hits 1k rpms then drops to 0. If I start it up and immediately get on the gas a bit it will hold for awhile and I slowly let off to see if it stalls out again. Its weird, only happens when the engine is cold...if I just had a drive and turn off the car and turn back on like 10 minutes later its fine and starts up good.
IAC problem
 

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IAC problem can pop up just after installing stuff and never touching it?
 

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your post was almost the definition of a faulty IAC. When I give advice, I give it for the car being stock because I can not compensate for aftermarket parts. Its kind of one of those I know what I know deals being that I deal with cars that are stock at work all day. Another possibility would be with the cams you may need to increase your idle.
 

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I will take the advice definately regardless of my setup as it is an answer when I have none myself. The idle of my car was increased to where it idles a tad about 1k and I like it around there. Getting the car to maintain the idle is a totally different story on cold start, how would I go about taking off the IAC?
 
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