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Discussion Starter #1
What aftermarket parts will work with the NA ignition? Which companies make plug wires, etc. for the 2jz-ge?

Also, please list you ignition mods if you have some.

Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Don't have any myself, but Magnecor makes a good 8.5mm set of wires for us. Go with Denso Iridium or Double Platinum Plugs and then get the HKS TwinPower Ignition booster (i can't remember the technical term). Also go with a new cap and rotor and you could also advance your timing with a timing light. (DaveH, we can advance our timing right?) But that is all that I know right now. I will be doing a write up soon. Good luck and always let us NA guys know if it helps with performance and if you feel any difference with your car!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I was thinking about getting some crane firewires and a hotter coil. Does the TwinPower ignition thing replace the coil or ...?

Just changed the cap, rotor, and plugs. The engine has been pinging, and it seemed to get worse with the new copper plugs (champion). I also blocked off the EGR, but couldn't tell if it affected the pinging.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Don't Magnecors cost like $200? Anyone know the resistance of the wires? Crane wires claim 25 ohms per foot, I think.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I find that NGK and Denso's work the best in imports. I found that Bosch's suck some major ass. I've never used a Champion in a car. Also NA's don't have coil packs, at least it doesn't say anything about it in our manual and I've never heard it discussed in the NA Section. Magnecor's are the best for our car. I've never heard of any other wires for our cars. The HKS TwinPower makes the spark TWICE as big!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Not to argue, but I found the Bosch +4 work well in NA's. As Bosch says, they are not for Turbos, or any car that fires plugs in pairs. NGK make a wire set that's half the price of Magnacore.
 

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You can advance the timing, but be sure you have real good gas in the car (race gas preferably). I have the 8.5mm Magnecors, and yes they are around $200.... gotta pay to play :D I don't know the resistance, but I'll check a wire or two and let you know.

The stock coil is very good, I added the HKS Twin Power which is just a ignition amplifier. The combo worked very well, no spark blowout at 27psi of boost plus a 75 shot of nitrous. I would guess you could open up the spark plug gap on a non-boosted n/a (with the Twin Power) and get some performance increase.

Slasher, if you are pinging it is probably either bad gas (try a different gas station) or your timing is off (get a timing light and check it).

rw3 said:
Don't have any myself, but Magnecor makes a good 8.5mm set of wires for us. Go with Denso Iridium or Double Platinum Plugs and then get the HKS TwinPower Ignition booster (i can't remember the technical term). Also go with a new cap and rotor and you could also advance your timing with a timing light. (DaveH, we can advance our timing right?) But that is all that I know right now. I will be doing a write up soon. Good luck and always let us NA guys know if it helps with performance and if you feel any difference with your car!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Dave, I use Mobil 93 Octane every tank. Is this gas okay to use to if I were to advance my timing? Thanks and LMK

Ryan
 
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hey, Slasher48. What Champion plugs are you using. I've been using Champion Copper Plus 71 RC12YC (6 pack) gapped at .0043 in (stock gap). No problems/misses at idle or up to redline. I have about 6k on the plugs now. I need to change 'em, soon. :)

Good luck

Mike

Slasher48 said:

Just changed the cap, rotor, and plugs. The engine has been pinging, and it seemed to get worse with the new copper plugs (champion). I also blocked off the EGR, but couldn't tell if it affected the pinging.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
krispytapa said:
I have about 6k on the plugs now. I need to change 'em, soon. :)

Good luck

Mike

?? 6k miles?? How often do you have to change these things out!? or did I just misread???

Rob~
 
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StaticX313: You read it right. :) The Champion plugs I'm using are non-platinum. That means I should be changing them every 5k miles(not sure, but that 5k miles sticks in my mind. I've heard of people change w/ less mileage intervals). I've been checking the plugs and they still look good.

The spark plugs recommended by Toyota are NGK BKR5EP11 or Nippon Denso PK16R11 platinum plugs which you change every 60k miles.

With non-platinums you have to change more often(excluding iridium I don't know anything about those plugs). With platinum plugs you get to wait an extra 55k miles. I don't mind changing every 5k miles. Just another excuse to work on my car.

Performance wise: I noticed none. But they work for me. :)

Mike

StaticX313 said:


?? 6k miles?? How often do you have to change these things out!? or did I just misread???

Rob~
 
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I think the Champion Copper should be good for 10-15K. Why not let the next several sets go an extra 1500 miles each and find out? I trust you use NeverSeez or something similar; those aluminium threads in the head won't last forever.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
krispytapa said:
StaticX313: You read it right. :) The Champion plugs I'm using are non-platinum. That means I should be changing them every 5k miles(not sure, but that 5k miles sticks in my mind. I've heard of people change w/ less mileage intervals). I've been checking the plugs and they still look good.

The spark plugs recommended by Toyota are NGK BKR5EP11 or Nippon Denso PK16R11 platinum plugs which you change every 60k miles.

With non-platinums you have to change more often(excluding iridium I don't know anything about those plugs). With platinum plugs you get to wait an extra 55k miles. I don't mind changing every 5k miles. Just another excuse to work on my car.

Performance wise: I noticed none. But they work for me. :)

Mike

Ok cool was just checkin.. lol aight I'll probably stick with the platinum then thanks

Rob~
 
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Discussion Starter #14
10-15k, huh? cool, thanks for the info. You're supposed to use anti-sieze? :) (sacarm, of course i use it)

Yonaga said:
I think the Champion Copper should be good for 10-15K. Why not let the next several sets go an extra 1500 miles each and find out? I trust you use NeverSeez or something similar; those aluminium threads in the head won't last forever.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Slasher48:

The Magnecor people claim 98 ohms/cm or 3K ohms per foot and 55,000 volts for the 8.5mm. You can get a set for 145 from supersport.com. By comparison, the NGK cost about 60. Are you certain Crain claimed 25 ohms per foot?
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the info. That's what they claim - 25ohms/ft.

http://www.cranecams.com/ignition/firewire.htm

The plugs are the champion 71 rc12yc. Engine pings like hell. Base timing is at 10deg btdc and I use 93 octane.

Bought a new cap and rotor. Also, the plug wires tested between 5k and 14k ohms (shortest to longest).
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Slasher48,

I checked the site and you hit it on the head: 25 is what they claim. I then went back to Magnecore's site and read why ultra-low resistance is not necessarily better (go figure!) In any case, I don't think the pinging is caused by your wires, but it's no doubt a sign of pre-ignition. Did you check TDC on your #1 cylinder? If you changed the timing belt or reset the cams recently, you could have jumped timing a bit. The other possibility that springs to mind is the knock-sensor(s)'s connection to the ECU could have broken or shorted. I don't know how many there are on the 2JZ.

I still like the Bosch +4 for NAs, 4418 for 7M and 4417 for 2JZ.

I run 93 with timing at +13: never pings even pulling away at 4MPH in second gear. (Just trying to save those 15 year old synchronizers on first!)
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Haven't checked TDC/cam timing marks yet. The belt seems to be worn, though.

There is a ticking from the front of the engine that can be heard by just touching the throttle at idle. Maybe a bad tentioner?

I tried retarding the timing and driving w/ the computer bypassed, so I don't think it is the knock sensor(s).
 
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Discussion Starter #19
If the tensioner is bad, I suppose it could jump timing. It's bad, but not absolutely critical because the M7 engines have non-intrusive valves. Ask me how I know it's bad on an Alfa when you jump timing.:rolleyes:

I would get a new timing belt and make certain the tensioner is working correctly; if not replace it. Then make certain the cams line up with the crank, and the #1 cylinder. If you are interested, Goodyear make a new line of belts that have a lifetime guarantee. Their fan belts have a very interesting tread.

It's a fair bit of work, but necessary, I think. Do you have a TSRM?
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Nope, no SRM. I've changed the timing belts on a DSM, so this should be cake. Plan on changing it and installing my cam gears.

Toyota should've used a timing chain to coordinate with the distributor, belt driven fan, etc.
 
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