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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all :)

currently in the process of getting my supra back on the road and configuring a base map but having some difficulty with getting it running correctly.. it’s so close so any help to get it sortedwould be amazing

I’ve done some searching on here and whilst I’ve found people referencing the use of coils with distributors the set ups have often been different with wasted set ups or using aftermarket cams etc I am happy keeping stock ge cams and the distributor in place for crank/cam sensor

my set up is fairly straightforward I think..

It’s stock GE motor bar TT head gasket and arp head bolts, 6266 turbo and front facing inlet manifold

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itsrunning R35 gtr smart coils wired sequentially to an AEM V2

Now it starts reluctantly, idles perfectly and drives.. terribly.. has no power and hops all over the place


I’m sure it’s something in the set up that I haven’t done.. as all I’ve really done is add the coils in and the coil phasing

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Someone who’s a lot more clued up on mapping reckons that maybe all my coils are firing at the same time so all are firing at each phase despite this and it’s a triggering issue.. but also tells me that it can’t be done on the dizzy alone and I need to install more sensors which doesn’t sound right

What are your thoughts?

If anyone with a similar set up that has a base map I could look at too that would be ace

thanks all!
 

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From the land down under
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Sorry, I cant help with you issues, but I am subscribed to see the outcome to how your set up performs once working perfectly.

What fuel will you be using with it, as its almost identical set up to what mine will be, although I am guessing that you are using a typical tubular exhaust manifold?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
No problem mate! I will update here if I find the answer elsewhere too

Normal fuel here 99 Ron nothing special

and yes tubular manifold :)
 

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From the land down under
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Good luck finding your problem, hopefully its a simple fix.

We have 98ron here in NZ which is equivalent to 93 in the USA, so we will both have similar octane levels.


What are your power goals for your engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Engine
2JZGE engine with GTE head gasket, ARP head bolts but other than that std engine
Believe compression is 9.2:1

Turbo
Precision 6266 gen 1 turbo
XS tubular manifold
TiAL MVS 44mm WG with screamer

Inlet and fuelling
SSI inlet manifold with 90mm throttle body SSI fuel rail
650cc siemens DEKA injectors
Walbro 400lph fuel pump
12v fuel pump mod and larger braided fuel lines -6an from tank to rail and return
AEM fuel pressure regulator

Engine management and other electrical
AEM uego wideband plumbed into ecu
AEM V2 EMS
AEM air intake temp sensor welded into pipe just prior to throttle body
AEM 5 bar map sensor
Garage whifbitz R35 GTR smart coils (wired sequentially direct to ecu) engine position taken from dizzy cam/crank signal

It still has Intake idle control valve fitted this is fitted underneath inlet.

Cooling
Front mount intercooler (nothing special think it’s a Toyo)
Driftworks supercool rad

Gearbox
R154 5 speed gearbox with marlin crawler thrust washer, shiftforks, hd bearing retainer with a spec full face clutch
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Right sorted.. it’s running! Multiple issues with that map above provided by a reputable tuner who shall remain nameless ??‍♂

Spark teeth was set to 4 when it should have been 24 meaning that essentially all coils were firing 6 times per revolution and the coil phasing etc was all out scrapped that file and started again with a stock GTE base map with some minor modifications to the trigger settings and fuel table and it runs no bother
 

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Yeah with 6 individual coils copy the coil # and phasing from the gte basemap, along with the fuel/spark teeth etc...
You could even just start with a gte basemap and take out a few degrees of ignition timing all across the board, change the cam sensitivity for the distributor and go from there.

The main difference in the trigger settings is the cam/crank sensitivities.
in the gte they are 500/400 rpm or something for the solid mounted sensors, and on the GE distributor sensors they are like 2000/1900 rpm or something.
If you are using the GE distributor, try using (Crank H sens below = 2000) and (Crank L sens Above = 1900).
This should be what is in the n/a basemap, just copy those values when using the distributor.

Spark teeth and fuel teeth should be 24 for full sequential. you can do 12 spark teeth for wasted spark but you have it setup for 24 right now on full sequential.
Those are the main changes, besides scaling for your injectors. should get you started.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Ali! I used those settings for the cam/crank sensor and started perfectly, I haven't messed with timing as I don't have a timing light but getting no errors and everything looks sensible

coils are set up from the ECU to fire fully sequentially, I am not a tuner by any stretch but it was fairly easy to input these settings and get it running, I really don't know what the previous tuner was doing!

still onwards and upwards now to get it dialled in.. Cannot wait!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
how difficult was it getting everything wired up ? I’m considering doing the same soon to my NA-T as well, I’m also using an AEM V2
not bad at all really I used the garage whifbitz kit and wired it all sequentially to the ports on the ecu. Pretty simple install really its been configuring them which has been the pain in the ass!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Did you set the proper dwell for the r35 coils? They are very different than oem
I didn't but then again I'm only getting it running for the time being.. of which so far it seems to run well!

will get a pro to set it up properly now before its used in anger
 

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Great info in this thread!

Rob one question out of interest:
Did you manage to get a proper tach signal so that RPM is displayed correctly on the dash?

Usually the gauge gets its signal via the igniter .... however, with smart coils like the R35 coils the igniter is deleted?

Would be great to learn how you did it!

Regards,
Herb
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I asked whifbitz this question and this is the response

“You'll need to run a wire into the tacho output on the ecu, you can pick it up from the big orange connector behind the ecu.”

but I haven’t got round to researching what exact cable etc I need to get into

if anyone has any info on this I’d appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Great info in this thread!

Rob one question out of interest:
Did you manage to get a proper tach signal so that RPM is displayed correctly on the dash?

Usually the gauge gets its signal via the igniter .... however, with smart coils like the R35 coils the igniter is deleted?

Would be great to learn how you did it!

Regards,
Herb
I found this response elsewhere on the forum

“running an AEM V2 (6101) with the LQ9 coils and got my tach signal from pin 38A (LS7). See page 12 in the AEM instructions for v2 http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/0/017/017-30-6101.pdf

Connect LS7 to the wire going to the cluster, pin 29 Body Loom Plug connector 90980-11554(Orange). wilbo666 / Wiki - wilbo666

Tach signal

seems I need to run a wire from 38A to the orange connector pin 29 (body loom side)

and I MAY need to then do the jumper mod to the tach which looks pretty easy...

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Discussion Starter #18
Did this today excuse the crap pictures but the black and white wire in orange connector pin 29.. tapped into it body side then ran the wire to 38a

tried it no joy

did the jumper mod to the back of the clocks and it works! One working tacho!



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On ecu side had to remove a yellow bung and used an old loom, depinned the purple wire and used that as didn’t have any new pins
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