Supra Forums banner

41 - 58 of 58 Posts

·
From the land down under
Joined
·
3,659 Posts
I would be more concerned about all the pitfalls of the Chinese kit you have purchased.

There are lots of potential issues with them....and the turbo you have selected is very big for a street car and there would be far more suitable turbos (Im presuming yours is a street car)

You need to ensure you check all the flanges and have them resurfaced as they will more than likely be warped.
Have the manifold braced, cleaned up on the inside, wastegate feeds ported out
Have the turbo flange clocked so the turbo inlet doesnt hit the dissy
Have the downpipe modified, and the wastegate flange rotated and the dump plumbed back in to the down pipe
Inspect the wastegate very closely to ensure it isnt going to get stuck closed and damage your motor
Buy some quality PTFE line and proper fittings and have turbo feed and drain lines made up
Make sure to buy some heat wrap and a beanie, and also, buy some heat sleeve to insulate all of the wiring and water hoses in the vicinity
What ECU will you be using, and do you have a tuner local to you who is proficient in tuning them?

I would also be concened about whether or not the turbos hotside will be able to fit underneath the factory throttle body???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
956 Posts
they usually size down the hotside some for the GE kits to clear the stock intake, but yeah its a pretty generic looking kit not sure if they really thought that out.
 

·
From the land down under
Joined
·
3,659 Posts
Of course they didnt think that out, they just rely on people jumping in head first without doing enough research, and clearly their business model works
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
In the thread about turbos -- people need to ask reputable turbo folks when it comes to things like Journal vs. Ball-Bearing turbos; restrictors vs. none; coolant lines needed or not, etc. For example, I have an unrestricted oil line, journal-bearing turbo without coolant lines ... my tubro is ok/designed for that; many others would not be (ball-bearing turbos almost always need an oil line restrictor, whereas many journal-bearing turbos do not).
 

·
SUPRAFICIAL
Joined
·
1,518 Posts
One of the things i think that is also not talked about too much is proper ar size turbine housing.

I see alot of na-t guys running some pretty large ar's like in the .78 .80 range.

Personally i contacted precision with my desired power goals and they leaned to towards the 6266 specifically a .68 turbine housing and a .70 compressor housing. Which is considerably smaller than what i typically see alot of na-t builds run. I love the way my car drives and rolls into boost, It still maintains its na behavior when im city driving and driving calm but when i want to have fun i just give alittle more gas and it pulls nicely.


Also why in the world do i see na-t guys running the stock coil with their distributors and wondering why they are having spark blow out ? I upgraded my coil to my distributor and i've ran nearly 20 psi with no spark problems. I have no hks dli, just plugs gapped to .28 and my upgraded coil that pushes 46k volts.

I think one of the things alot of people over look is the coil and figure the stock one is fine but if you really look into it. thats the main part that is limiting the amount of electricity pushing through your plug wires.

Sometimes i even see a bad ass na-t with the dist setup and see the stock coil and an hks dli and the coil is still limiting them from actually getting the spark they need. a simple 50 dollar coil can help ALOT with spark issues. Dont run your stock coil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
So guys very new to the supra game i have pretty decent knowledge on cars in general and im looking to buy a NA 93 supra with basically 3/4 of the work done to it for me to get it up and running on the NA-T setup. Has coil on plug conversion, 550cc injectors MAP sensor and IAT setup on a jdm TT ecu right now. he has an AEM ems that i could buy off him and get it tuned, literally everything is about done for me other than bolt the turbo exhaust oil lines etc up and get her running. My problem is i am stationed in japan and they have a JCI inspection that does emissions testing and there is litteraly nobody within a 12 hr radius that does tuning. i need to get my A/F ratios on point to pass the emissions test. Is there anybody that can do an E-Tune or something of the sort. when i had my old nissan with an sr20det swap i sent the ecu to a guy and he tuned it for the mods that i had done then he sent it back and i was good to go. i need help with this becuase i would not know where to start by tuning it myself!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I just got started on my NA-T build. I have an ecumasters standalone ECU. I am debating on doing a FFIM or running the piping around the bottom back to the same side. If I do a FFIM which plenum should I buy? And a TB to go with it?(with tps) I'm not trying to do much aluminum welding, if any.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hi
Currently perform the conversion of my 2jz vvti to ge - Na-t, changing the pistons and connecting rods to gte, the same ge headgasket. What is your recommendation for better compression engine.
Regards
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Help

Hello guys.. I'm new to this forum.. I don't know where else to go.. :)
I have 2JZ-GE w/o VVT-i and no MAF.. Yes.. There is no Manifold Air Flow.. :D

I have gone Na-T right now.. I installed Garett T04B93.. with Turbosmart WG38mm Wastegate, HKS Bov, NGK BKR6E 8mm gap, and Denso GT Coil.. I use 98 Gas.. And unfortunately no Intercooler right now.. :(

Now i run 3-5psi/0.2-0.3bar right now.. I have problem with it..
When i accelerate with fully open throttle with full boost (5psi/0.3bar @3000-4000rpm) my 2jz will start to lose power and a sound like knocking will come out.. :confused: Ignition Timming @ 7-8 degree BTDC Idle
At this time i have to let off the gas just a little to reduce the boost (approx. 3-4psi/0.25bar) so my 2jz will go at full power and no more knocking sound..

My question is what should i do fo fix the knocking sound and power loss..??
What is possibly the problem..?? Is it hot air because there is no intercooler..?? or not enough fuel..?? Injector problem..?? Ignition timming miss..?? Bad fuel pump..?? :confused:

If you have thoughts, opinion, or answer for me.. Please share it with me..
Thank you so much for reading this long post.. I hope you can read it all without a headache.. Once again.. Thank you.. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I had a similar problem to this. Do you have a wideband ?

My problem was it was too rich. I ended up leaning it out and it was fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
That's the problem.. I don't have wideband.. And i don't know if it is rich or lean.. And that knocking sound only came in 2nd gear and on.. Not in first gear and not in low rpm's.. Maybe i'll try to leaning it and see what happens.. I have recorded my exhaust sound and see alot of thin smoke come out after i rev it high enough..

See this video.. http://www.imgrum.net/media/1331762392496927679_1906922582
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Great thread! Quick question for clarification, is this using the 2JZGE wiring harness or do I have to change? Also, I saw another forum that mentioned when using the GTE ECU the plugs were different from the GE to the GTE. It did say it was from an Aristo so maybe that’s the difference? If I use a Supra GE wiring harness and Supra 2JZGTE ECU I should be fine right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I just wanted to make a suggestion for the original post. Many of us have a GE "VVTi" that we are wanting to NA-T. It should be clarified that this information is only true for the non-VVTi engines right in the first post. The information is outstanding and a good read. But this thread comes up a lot while searching I noticed over the past several months, and it had me very confused on what my engine could handle when I first stared researching. We all know the VVTi is weaker and can't handle a lot of boost in factory form. Just would be good for guys like me to know there is a difference right off the bat rather than finding out later through all the conflicting information on the GE engine. Furthermore it may be helpful to make a supplementary NA-T section somewhere on the form for the VVTi. I may be able to help with that as I have recently gone NA-T in my 98 GS300.

This NA-T bible is an awesome idea and I was so stoked to think I had found exactly what I needed when I started researching going NA-T in my GE. I'm sure there are a lot of guys in my shoes. In no way am I bashing, just trying to help others looking for information. Like for example, I was convinced I had a karman vortex air meter for awhile. It's a hotwire on the VVTi. No distributor either, it's a waste spark cop system. The VVTi supposedly has 10.5:1 rather than 10:1 (need confirmation still). Would just be good to help the VVTi community a little.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I just wanted to make a suggestion for the original post. Many of us have a GE "VVTi" that we are wanting to NA-T. It should be clarified that this information is only true for the non-VVTi engines right in the first post. The information is outstanding and a good read. But this thread comes up a lot while searching I noticed over the past several months, and it had me very confused on what my engine could handle when I first stared researching. We all know the VVTi is weaker and can't handle a lot of boost in factory form. Just would be good for guys like me to know there is a difference right off the bat rather than finding out later through all the conflicting information on the GE engine. Furthermore it may be helpful to make a supplementary NA-T section somewhere on the form for the VVTi. I may be able to help with that as I have recently gone NA-T in my 98 GS300.

This NA-T bible is an awesome idea and I was so stoked to think I had found exactly what I needed when I started researching going NA-T in my GE. I'm sure there are a lot of guys in my shoes. In no way am I bashing, just trying to help others looking for information. Like for example, I was convinced I had a karman vortex air meter for awhile. It's a hotwire on the VVTi. No distributor either, it's a waste spark cop system. The VVTi supposedly has 10.5:1 rather than 10:1 (need confirmation still). Would just be good to help the VVTi community a little.
Thanks for the clarification and I agree that there should be some way of clearly separating the two. I’m shooting to go NA-T on my ‘88 MK3 that I recently bought an engine for from a ‘98 MKIV 2jzge VVTI. If you can offer any advice I’m all ears. Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
If you go with a GTE harness, you'll have to get a MAP sensor and make changes to the way the throttle data works somehow. Injectors are way different etc. GE doesn't have MAP and the throttle/intake is different. I'd just use a GE harness with a piggyback ECU. It will work for your engine and can be tuned just fine. I'm using an AEM FIC-6. It's still a piggy, but has an integral MAP sensor and can adjust timing as well as A/F mix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
If you go with a GTE harness, you'll have to get a MAP sensor and make changes to the way the throttle data works somehow. Injectors are way different etc. GE doesn't have MAP and the throttle/intake is different. I'd just use a GE harness with a piggyback ECU. It will work for your engine and can be tuned just fine. I'm using an AEM FIC-6. It's still a piggy, but has an integral MAP sensor and can adjust timing as well as A/F mix.
I actually decided on going stand alone with the Megasquirt3 and I have a guy doing my wiring who specializes in my platform. Everything else I’m doing myself, I’m excited.
 
41 - 58 of 58 Posts
Top