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Discussion Starter #1
Ive decided to keep my car and bring it to get the AEM EMS tuned. Last time I had it running it was super rich and bogging on boost. Fouled plugs and tried going colder but it happened again. Now I pulled them to do a compression test and theres oil on them. Bad head gasket by chance? Anyways I had steady 120's except the 2nd cylinder was 90.

I dont want to bring it into the shop until I get everything figured out because I only have about a $1,000 to get it tuned and dynoed. Should I poss. test the injectors as well as empty all the old gas and replace all the old fluids. Open to suggestions I want to get this thing back on the street! :ugh2:
 

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Thats some low compression man. What cams do you have? Head gasket will not usually cause oil on the plugs. Worn piston rings will or a cracked ring land. Was there fresh oil on the plug? or was it burnt oil ( white looking)?

I think the next step would be to do a leakdown test and find where you are loosing your compression.

Did you happen to look at the piston tops through the spark plug holes?

Lawrence
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thats some low compression man. What cams do you have? Head gasket will not usually cause oil on the plugs. Worn piston rings will or a cracked ring land. Was there fresh oil on the plug? or was it burnt oil ( white looking)?

I think the next step would be to do a leakdown test and find where you are loosing your compression.

Did you happen to look at the piston tops through the spark plug holes?

Lawrence
Yah I was trying to figure out if the aftermarket head gasket on it would bring the compression down? Stock NA cams. Its fresh oil on them. I actually was going to try a leak down test next. No I didnt even think about trying to look at them yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How thick is your HG? Damm 120 is SUPER low man. Yeah either bad rings or bad HG. Good thing to hear your keeping it, your car is a beauty. Do you do all the work yourself?
Its a BoostLogic 2.5mm. Almost all of it was done before hand by Kirk in Tampa FL. So I dont really know what to do. The EMS had a chip go bad and it wouldnt start at all. Got it fixed plugged it in but it ran super rich. I thought maybe since they put a new chip in it the tune went bad and since I tried driving it maybe I screwed the whole damn thing up. All I know Is I havent had the thing driveable for over 2yrs now and its killing me.
 

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Yeah i figured kirk had done all the work. But if something is up with the block, its cheap to replace the block, thats why im asking. If you know how to take out the block and get it done, it shouldnt run you so much $$, these blocks are cheap. But i guess labor cost is going to kill you. Well for right now, i guess i would just focus on getting the car tuned, if it starts and runs(even super rich) that means that all that is needed is the tune to get fucked around with. You can live with 120 through 5 cylinders and 90 in one, not a big issue. Just when you get more cash, you would wanna get it fixed, as the numbers will just be getting lower over a period of time. Its slowlyy dying:(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah i figured kirk had done all the work. But if something is up with the block, its cheap to replace the block, thats why im asking. If you know how to take out the block and get it done, it shouldnt run you so much $$, these blocks are cheap. But i guess labor cost is going to kill you. Well for right now, i guess i would just focus on getting the car tuned, if it starts and runs(even super rich) that means that all that is needed is the tune to get fucked around with. You can live with 120 through 5 cylinders and 90 in one, not a big issue. Just when you get more cash, you would wanna get it fixed.
I have friends that could probably do it, I mean they never touched a GE before but they've built a STI, EVO, and some other dsms. I mean I want it to run top great no sense in half assing it.
 

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Yeah i know, but keep it mind your budget. Thats why i told you that. And its wayyyy easier to work on a Supra than on an evo or sti btw, so if they can build those cars, this shouldnt be hard at all. All it is is pulling the whole block,tranny out, unblting the ARP head studs and separating the block from the head. If the HG is "transferable" and can be re used, just put it in the new shortblock and piece it all back. Prety much that sums up and fixes your compression issue. Then you can move on with the tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Couldnt I just put new internals in? Or would it be cheaper the other way? I'm just trying to stay under $1,500 to get it back kickin.
 

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Couldnt I just put new internals in? Or would it be cheaper the other way? I'm just trying to stay under $1,500 to get it back kickin.
Nope, internals should run you more $$. Find a decent mileaged longblock on here or somewhere else. Lets say it runs you 500$, swap in just the shortblock and you can make some $$ by selling the complete head, like maybe 200$ or so. Or you can keep it for the future and get it built, port polished, valves everything and then swap it in. But IMO, swapping in a perfectly working shortblock sounds like the best route for the $$. The only reason you would build it is if you plan on exeeding 850++whp, then i would get it build.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nope, internals should run you more $$. Find a decent mileaged longblock on here or somewhere else. Lets say it runs you 500$, swap in just the shortblock and you can make some $$ by selling the complete head, like maybe 200$ or so. Or you can keep it for the future and get it built, port polished, valves everything and then swap it in. But IMO, swapping in a perfectly working shortblock sounds like the best route for the $$. The only reason you would build it is if you plan on exeeding 850++whp, then i would get it build.
Alright well I guess the next step is to make sure it is the internals I guess.
 

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I had a similar problem only my turbo was ticking too. Turned out to be a broken ring that went through my turbo. I ended up ordering an aristo motor cost me 1650... Then a lot more after that but besides the point the motors are cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I had a similar problem only my turbo was ticking too. Turned out to be a broken ring that went through my turbo. I ended up ordering an aristo motor cost me 1650... Then a lot more after that but besides the point the motors are cheap.
Damn, Im pretty sure my turbos ok. I just hope I can get it all done in my budget.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well Im going to puts with it tomorro and see if I can figure anything out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks. We started tearing it down tonight. Head looks great, all the further we made it. Took a long time to get the turbo off. They deffinately built the motor then dropped it in cuz shes snug. lol I'll update tomorro.
 

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Thanks. We started tearing it down tonight. Head looks great, all the further we made it. Took a long time to get the turbo off. They deffinately built the motor then dropped it in cuz shes snug. lol I'll update tomorro.
Dropping in the motor with the most things on it is the easy and professional way to do things. Makes life easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yah we already brought the hoist over so we can drop it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
So are progress has been delayed to an effin blizzard but tomorrow we'll have the block out finally so I can figure out its deal. Does anybody have any recomendations for it while I have it apart. I am on a budget keep in mind. Heres the current mods. No internals and stock W58 tranny.
2JZ-GE
Optima Red Top w/ Trunk relocation
AEM EMS w/ 5bar MAP sensor
BoostLogic 2.5mm Headgasket
Sound Performance Tubular manifold
Sound Performance Intake manifold
Wilson 85mm Throttle Body
SP74 turbo .81/A.R

AEM dry filter 9"
Aermotive Fuel Pressure Regulator w/ gauge
SS Braided Fuel Dampner Bypass
Custom baller Fuel Rail
RC 1000cc Injectors
Dual intank Walbro Fuel Pumps
HKS Type R Intercooler
GReddy IC piping
Godspeed Radiator
Apexi GT Spec exhaust
Titan Cam Gears
Titan radiator cooling plate
HKS SSQ BOV
RPS Clutch
TRD Shortshifter w/ shift knob
TRD Sway Bars front and rear

 
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