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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was just wondering with all the NA-T we have here. I don't see any thread on tuning informations. I was wondering if some of you more experience folks could help with more detail information on tuning the NA-T.

Basic tools I can think of for tuning are , wideband and timing light. Anymore tools?

Getting the NA-T to run like stock is good, then whats next? Getting a/f to be around 11:1 --12:1, then what? Change timing to get the most out of it!

How to tell when it's knocking, when it's getting blowby, basic troubles to look for.

I think most of the NA-T guys would like to know this also.
 

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miata owner...
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well i tune around 11.5 at full throttle just to be safe. I dont tune any leaner than that just in case of boost spike or anything. For timing wise i just put 100 octane just to be safe but my timing at idle is at 9

also i recommend innovative wideband that thing is pretty accurate. it was .1 compared to the wb on the dyno
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
wow,... I guess not everyone is intested in tuning the NA-T.
 

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BoostAddict4Life
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moua4c i have several posts on tuning the na-t just look for vpc questiosn and such. im gonna be giving the na boards here a nice base map for the map ecu here shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I have read thourgh a lot of the vpc stuff and safc stuff. I guess I'm in need to learn more about tuning. It just seem like most of the thing here are too simple. I just keep thinking there has to be more to tuning then just the simple vpc and safc stuff.
 

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once darin tuned my aem the only time it was retuned was during an r&d project for turbonetics. :bigthumb:
 

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Formerly NA-TT
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Hey Moua4c,

I don't have advice, but I do know that some people have mentioned tuning before. For example, one guy posted how to run the NA-T engine on stock compression at higher than 300hp; in that thread he discussed changing timing among other things.
 

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First off I'd like to say that tuning is a concept that cannot be tied to a single platform.
NA-T gets tuned the same way a TT does, and a TT gets tuned the same way a Honda does.
It also cannot be tied to any single tuning tool.
Some people believe that tuning with an SAFC is nothing like tuning with a VPC when in fact, both tools modify the Air Flow signal that goes into the ECU in order to manipulate the amount of fuel delivered.

Once you decide on a tool (usually based on HP goals and/or budget) the tuning concept is simple: Set a solid AFR under boost (most say 12:1 is a safe AFR to run but it depends on boost levels), then slowly advance timing and watch the power increase. As soon as you see power fall off and/or see detonation (knock), retard timing a bit and you’re where you want to be.
This is the reason why the dyno is recommended* for ignition tuning; you can see small changes in power output. Unless you were born with super-accurate lateral acceleration sensors in your peripheral system, you won’t be able to sense these small changes on your own.
Fuel can be taken care of using street tuning because fuel is mostly tweaked to improve driveability.

To answer the question about how to detect knock, conveniently enough, our cars came with 2 knock sensors, 1 front and 1 rear.
These produce a 0-5V+ output that can easily be logged with the datalogger of your choice.
The knock sensors are really microphones, so when your engine is at a higher RPM, you’re going to get ‘noise’ and the knock sensors are going to start outputting some voltage.
You have to learn the ‘noise’ your car makes without knock.
Best way to do this is to run your car through the RPM range (under load of course) with safe timing and some high octane gas that ensures you’re not knocking.
You’ll see what voltage the knock sensors produce at what RPM without any knock.

When you start datalogging (tuning), you’re watching out for voltage spikes above the voltage you measured in your ‘base’ run.
If you see spikes, retard timing until they’re gone.
Luckily the 2JZ engine is built very tough, and is quite forgiving when it comes to detonation.
By the time you see the knock sensor spike in a stock Civic motor, the internals are most likely destroyed.

*Although I cannot vouch for it personally, Innovate’s AuxBox has built-in lateral acceleration sensors which can be used instead of a dyno. The problem with this is doing a WOT to redline in 4th gear. If you live in the middle of nowhere, it can be done, but when I tried such a run here in the bay, I ended up with a very hefty fine.

Cheers,
~Alan
 
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