NA to TT brake calipers`
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whats the difference b/t the MC's anyways?
Not sure what you mean by "bracket" because the TT brakes don't necessarily have any brackets on them. You need calipers, pads and pad accessories, (shims, guy pins, etc) and rotors. Thats all I have, and I haven't had a single issue.
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Probably not as much of a noticable improvement if any. Most of the braking will be done by the fronts anyway since that is where all the momentum is
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I think the only difference is that the TTs had to accomodate for the TRAC system.
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I called my local Toyota dealer about getting the TT brake parts front and rear and asked if there was a difference in the master cylinders and was told they have the same part number for the NA and TT. You may want to check with your local Toyota parts to confirm - in case I got somebody who wasn't checking the right thing.
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I believe the MC's are different numbers, What about the Backing Plates? are those necessary? and am I wasting my money in also swapping the rears to TT?
Something along the lines of 80% of braking is done with the front brakes, which is why changing the fronts is so noticeable. Changing the rears would not yield nearly the improvements as the fronts. Plus it would cost twice as much to install fronts and rears.
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I just swapped front and rear at Toyota. No change in MC - no mention from them that it was needed. Parts ran $2200 frt&rr. Backing plate/dust shield used on fronts. Not used on rear because of parking brake which would need a new press bearing to get the backing plate off and new one on, about $1000 more 
Tech trimmed the lip of rear backing plate to allow larger rotor and worked great. Can't even see it. The only problem I might see about using front w/o rear is IF your brake bias was thrown off. Don't know the answer to this. I can tell you the brakes make a huge difference. I know the car isn't that fast but stopping quickly at any speed faster is nice. My wife noticed right away and she didn't know at the time they were upgraded plus could care less about cars stuff anyway.
Tech trimmed the lip of rear backing plate to allow larger rotor and worked great. Can't even see it. The only problem I might see about using front w/o rear is IF your brake bias was thrown off. Don't know the answer to this. I can tell you the brakes make a huge difference. I know the car isn't that fast but stopping quickly at any speed faster is nice. My wife noticed right away and she didn't know at the time they were upgraded plus could care less about cars stuff anyway.
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You got fucked if you paid 2200$ (no offense of course). There is no reason to purchase new braking equipment - simply inspect the pistons and seals of the used calipers and ensure they are within spec.I just swapped front and rear at Toyota. No change in MC - no mention from them that it was needed. Parts ran $2200 frt&rr. Backing plate/dust shield used on fronts. Not used on rear because of parking brake which would need a new press bearing to get the backing plate off and new one on, about $1000 more
There is no difference in MC between NA and TT. The proportioning system is identical between the two cars.
TT rears and fronts bolt on with no major modification. Only change needed is bending and/or removal of the dust shields. In all honesty, they do little to stop dust and act as an air flow restriction when on the track. I remove them, especially off the rear.
TT brake swaps take me about an hour or so these days.
Cheaper alternative is using LS400 fronts and stock rears. For 250$, it simply cannot be beat and every NA/NA-T car should be equipped with them bare minimum.
I've still got a set of front and rear TT calipers on the shelf if anyone is looking to do the swap.
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If your willing to spend $2200 ,you should have gotten a brembo BBK that would have showed you greater improvments and the advantages of a full floating rotor.
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I accept that buying from the dealership is more expensive and they offered no 20% discount. If I knew of a dealer that would have done that - believe me I would have. If anyone has a number for a Toyota dealer with discounts - let me know, but a BBk would have been more than twice what I paid in looking around for what I wanted - roughly $4700-$5000+ at Titan, WOTM, Suprastore, etc... Remember, you have to get calipers($329 each ~ $1316 total), rotors($136/$104 ~ $480 total), pads, shim kit, dustshields/backing plates and pay tax. This is for fronts and rears together of course. Feedback from anyone is welcome.
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Hey MadMaxx, I didn't have any used brakes to inspect - that's why I ordered them new. I would have gladly bought the used ones you had if I had known. What are you asking for them? What is the difference in the LS 400 brakes - are they also 4 piston fronts and 2 piston rears?
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LS400 fronts are a 4 piston monoblock aluminum design that was developed to stop a 2 ton vehicle. They're 8lbs lighter per caliper than the Supra brakes, but have a .5" reduction of total rotor size. However, the calculations came up that the difference was negligable. For the cost... ~150 for calipers (loaded) and 70$ for OEM rotors, it cannot be beat. I did the writeup on it several years ago, I think dejacky re-did the writeup a few months ago.
In the future, please feel free to PM me if you have any questions. I'm in G'ville, I may already have the parts you need and have been taking these damn cars apart for years now :lol: Are you going NA-T or TT in the future? Got some goodies for ya...
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I was planning on going the TT swap route - but I have started researching alternatives to see what might be most cost effective. Any feedback is appreciated. Nice to find someone locally with knowledge and a supra period. Drop me a line and let me know what you've got. Maybe we can get together some time and check the cars out. Thanks for the reply.
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Cost effective: NA-T or 1JZ (my fav right now).
If I had to do it all over again: NA-T (honestly). If you have mechanical skills and some basic electronics knowhow, NA-T is the way to go.
There are many times I long for the simplicity of the distributor... I kid ye not. It all really depends on what you want to do with the car.
If I had to do it all over again: NA-T (honestly). If you have mechanical skills and some basic electronics knowhow, NA-T is the way to go.
There are many times I long for the simplicity of the distributor... I kid ye not. It all really depends on what you want to do with the car.
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