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Discussion Starter #1
Im gonna dyno my car tommorow and i was wonderin' if there is anything i should know. Any advice on what i need besides a wide-band?? Any tricks to gain more hp numbers:D :D :D

Thanks.......
 

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1)-Trac fuse off
2)- Reset the ECU
3)-100 Octane Race gas
4)-Fan in front of the rad/intercooler
5)-Around 2K-2.5K RPM,just floor the Gas until red line
If u r BPU and well tuned,u should make around 400 RWHP.
Regards. Yasir ( 411 RWHP/424 ft/lbs torque) :D :D
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Well im completely untuned.... just bpu and fmic... What numbers should i expect to put down?
 

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Including everything that Yasir said, throw in a fresh set of NGK 3330's before dynoing.
 
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ok it might just be me but i dont understand why people go through all of this before they dyno....i mean how often are you goin to run race gas and do all these other things before you drive? i would rather go there and find out my numbers of how my car is normally set-up....then maybe add race gas and raise boost above normal too see how high i can go...i just think it makes more sense to dyno the car exactly how you use it on the street not do all these special things to just get higher numbers at the dyno
 

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DuCeY DuCe said:
ok it might just be me but i dont understand why people go through all of this before they dyno....i mean how often are you goin to run race gas and do all these other things before you drive? i would rather go there and find out my numbers of how my car is normally set-up....then maybe add race gas and raise boost above normal too see how high i can go...i just think it makes more sense to dyno the car exactly how you use it on the street not do all these special things to just get higher numbers at the dyno
The whole reason for doing all that is to stimulate real world conditions. At bpu, your car will detonate at high boost on the dyno, hence the use of race gas to fight off detonation. Reseting your ECU fixes your timing if it had ever been retarded due to a bad tank of gas. The fan is a weak attempt of ours of trying to stimulate the air whih would be blowin across our i.c. if we were moving. Does it make sense to u now?
 

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Like redbpu said adding race gas for the dyno gives you an idea of what your car is doing on the street. On the dyno you have about 35mph air going through you intercooler. This means you basically have no intercooler. Because of this your car will detonate on the dyno and retard the timing. On the street with air going though your intercooler your car will no detonate and you would make more power than your dyno #'s would show. You add mild race gas (around 100 octane) on the dyno to avoid the timing retard so you can see what your car is really making on the street. Keep in mind that putting in race gas doesn't give you the denser (cooler) air that the intercooler would give you on the street, it only stops detonation. Some people would argue that you need to ice down the intake to simulate the colder air the intercooler would be giving you on the street. Again this is so you can get a rwhp number that is closer to what you are really making everyday on the street. I personally think icing the intercooler gives you a little more cooling than your intercooler would so I don't do it. As far as plugs, you don't need to change them if you have a good set of plugs in the car. Most of the time we recommend doing this because people tend to have old plugs in the car and they won't give you a good comparison for your next dyno runs. Basically if you dyno with old plugs, then return to the dyno with cam gears and new plugs and get a 15rwhp gain you don't know how much was the plugs and how much was the cam gears.

Later, Steve
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I did everything you guys said except change the plugs...
I got 384.7hp and 399.4lbs. Is this average? Also there is a weird dip in my power curve at about 5500rpm. What does this mean?? Ill post my sheet tommorow and maybe it will be more clear.
 

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Those are very good numbers! Believe me, on the street your rwhp will be even higher due to the additional cooling. You have a healthy BPU! The dip is transition from 1st to 2nd turbo.
yoshie
 

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That is not a strong BPU car. It is actually about 40rwhp low considering he was running race gas and a FMIC. Of course this all depends on what boost he was running. The transition will be between 3,500 and 4,000 rpm. Remember he is in TTC mode and shouldn't have a dip at all. Post the dyno curve, and we may be able to help you out

Later, Steve
 

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My car made those #s on crappy cali 92 octane.

On 100 octane unleaded it made 425rwhp/447rwt. Your numbers are not strong for a BPU car on high octane fuel.

Boost leaks (check around the EGR), even small ones, can cause the car to run too rich, killing power.
 
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I cant get the dyno with the 385hp because my friends computer at magnaflow took a shit today. I couldn't get the disk, but I will have it by monday. I do have a dyno from wednesday that is on pump (91 octane) gas, I got about 370hp.
The one that i did yesterday on race gas only has one dip at about 5.5K. Keep in mind that i am completely UN-tuned. I was boosting at 1.2 kg/cm2. at 75 deg temp.

 

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DANKAHOLIK said:
I cant get the dyno with the 385hp because my friends computer at magnaflow took a shit today. I couldn't get the disk, but I will have it by monday. I do have a dyno from wednesday that is on pump (91 octane) gas, I got about 370hp.
The one that i did yesterday on race gas only has one dip at about 5.5K. Keep in mind that i am completely UN-tuned. I was boosting at 1.2 kg/cm2. at 75 deg temp.

Unless you have some type of fuel controller, what tuning *can* you do? There is no tuning involved on a BPU car, just good maintenance.

My car has no tuning either, and is still running on the stock IC. I firmly believe any Supra with a healthy motor can dyno 410+ at straight BPU.

Pressure test the intake/IC piping on your car. Use soapy water to find the small leaks. Replace any hard/brittle hoses. Use the EGR block-off plate sold by Mohd on the mailing list.

You too can find dyno nirvana with attention to detail.

"God is in the details" :).
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Didn't know that 410+ rwhp could be accomplished without tuning.
Lagtime... Could you please list what mods you have exactly?
 

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DANKAHOLIK said:
Didn't know that 410+ rwhp could be accomplished without tuning.
Lagtime... Could you please list what mods you have exactly?
Sure:

1. RMM DP
2. TRD Cat-back (old style)
3. BCC
4. Hallman MBC (18~19 psi)
5. K&N drop in filter (stock air box)
6. NGK 6097 plugs @ .035
7. EGR block-off plate

Straight BPU, not even an aftermarket intake or BOV (Neither of which add any power anyways).

The above plus 100 octane unleaded got me 425.4 rwhp, 447.8 rwt on an 87 degree day at Brothers in Corona.

My car had ~79k on it at the time.
 

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Jonathan S said:
Chip,

Just curious if the EGR blockoff plate will do anything for horsepower #s?
If it's the source of a boost leak (like mine was) then yes, blocking off the EGR helps. If it does not leak then blocking it won't make more power, although it's still worth doing for the safety factor (no chance of cooking the valves on #5 & 6).
 

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Ok, reading this makes me think that I too may have a problem.
My car is full BPU:
HKS Super Dragger
Max Air K&N intake
Tanabe DP
Profec B at 1.25 bar
BCC

I dynoed at 370hp and torque at 394 last week, and was told that it was because I was running very very rich. I was also told that OBDII could be an issue, and for me to get my hands on an OBDI computer. A guy next to me with the same mods and OBDI put down 403. I guess a fuel controller would help me out to lean it out a bit, but would it make that much of a difference.
Oh and this was on 93 octane so I guess race gas would have helped a little.

What do you guys think? OBDI and/or fuel controller as my next mods?
 
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