You can remove the shock without unbolting the a-arms, but you will need to detach the swaybar and work it out in exactly the right manner. It helps to have two people, because one will need to push down on the suspension.
My opinion is that you do it the way the manual says, which is to remove the A-Arm bolt. I tried all sorts of different ways and wasted a few days, and in the end ended up doing it the manual way anyway, although I haven't tried removing the swaybar. The problem with doing it by removing the swaybar is that it's still a pain removing the strut assembly through the upper A-Arm. After removing the A-Arm bolt, it took less than 15 minutes to remove the strut, replace the springs, and put it back in. The hardest part was removing the A-Arm nut. Had to use a long breaker bar.
I did mine w/out removing sway bars. Removed a-arm bolt to swing out the cliper/rotor (left intact) and used stock floor jack jammed between the body and lower suspension arm to slowly push the suspension down, whole shocks/spring assy popped right out. 10 minute job per corner, one man required
Hey guys quick question. If after I warm the car and when I drive the first 20 secs or so my whole jerks and then it the car runs perfectly afterwards. I have a high mileage v160. Is that normal ? I've heard that the transmission needs to warm up maybe?
My 94TT is BPU+ and I just got a Haltech Elite 2500 to go standalone. Sticking with stock fuel (upgraded injectors though) for now, and would like to drop in a fuel-pressure sensor somewhere. Is there any easy spot to do that ? Maybe the banjo/union bolt on the existing fuel-pressure...