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Im trying to order all the fuel system compdents to get my 88 mk3 hard top on the road to leave out of state to be with my family during this crazieness we got going on in the USA , I have to replace my fuel pump , filter and clean the lines out , I found have an Aeromotive 360lph fuel pump , but I need to replace fuel filter and add an FPR, what fitings do i need to buy along with FPR and fuel filter , i am replacing with a cleanable fuel filter 6an fitings universal type, the lines are semi frozen and would liek to replace the ones from tank to filter if possible , i dont have the time to order wrong parts from ebay as i need to get out of town ASAP, any advice that will help me get this done in one shot would be great.
 

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Was the fuel tank open to the elements?

The fuel pump pickup filter does a pretty good job and cleaning out the major stuff.

Is your fuel pressure low?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Was the fuel tank open to the elements?

The fuel pump pickup filter does a pretty good job and cleaning out the major stuff.

Is your fuel pressure low?
pump is dead from varnish gas in tank from 15 years ago but , engine is freed up plugs are still good , was parked and put on blocks i have a new pump but i need to add fpr and fitings not sure what to get on these items. fpr to fuel rail fittings if. i have to use oem filter im fine with that
 

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Just get a Walbro 255 or a TT Supra denso pump. No issues with either of those on a stock regulator or stock lines. But remember to buy submersible fuel hose to connect the pump to the feed line. If you need the car to run ASAP then if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Replacing a shitload of fuel lines right before a road trip with no 'shakedown' period is a recipe for disaster. Honestly this whole scenario is a recipe for disaster.
In your shoes, I'd just run one of the above pumps, install that carefully with the correct fuel hose clamps and submersible fuel hose, and hardwire the pump wiring as stock and otherwise leave it alone.
I'd hose the stock fuel filter fittings with PB blaster and get the correct line wrenches to loosen those fittings, and I'd replace the filter with an OE style replacement from Autozone or similar.

If you buy the Aeromotive pump, beware of the included hose because I had two customer cars fail at the included hose - the hose included in the install kit was not submersible and disintegrated in the tank. The result looked like a failed fuel pump and the cars ran stupid lean briefly before they quit running.
 

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The Aeromotive is about the worst pump you could have chosen.

Did a thread on that pos a few years ago.
After reading about all the failures people were having, I bought a used one to see what the inside looked like.
Boys & Girls, can we say 'Tinker-Toy' ?
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I've seen Radio Shack RC car motors built better than this.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Can u run walbro 255 without messing with aftermarket fpr, ?? I can ditch the aeropump and save it for a Future fuel cell setup or something , sorry took so long to reply to this been crazy out here on the road delivering medical equipment during the virus outbreak, also what is this hose you speek , from pump to intank filter bag
 

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The Aeromotive is about the worst pump you could have chosen.

I've seen Radio Shack RC car motors built better than this.....
Which Aeromotive Pump is that? Is that their "stealth" pumps?
 

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I don't think you can run a 255hp on oem lines because of the j-pipe restriction hole.

I had the 255hp and when I did the real 12v mod-- added new relay, big wire from battery to tank, replaced oem connectors etc

...the pump was an entirely different animal and over ran the oem reg for sure. I had to pull a ton of fuel at idle just with that 1 change

i then added a afpr, adjusted pressure to 10psi over oem.....and had to add fuel back in the idle
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't think you can run a 255hp on oem lines because of the j-pipe restriction hole.

I had the 255hp and when I did the real 12v mod-- added new relay, big wire from battery to tank, replaced oem connectors etc

...the pump was an entirely different animal and over ran the oem reg for sure. I had to pull a ton of fuel at idle just with that 1 change

i then added a afpr, adjusted pressure to 10psi over oem.....and had to add fuel back in the idle
what fittings did u have to get to add the fpr to the stock rail? i have no problem adding the aftermarket fpr to compensate i just wana make shure i order all the needed parts , i only get 1 week hometime per month so if i fail to get all the correct parts to hook it all up i basicly wait an entire month , i no longer after to leave asap
 

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what fittings did u have to get to add the fpr to the stock rail? i have no problem adding the aftermarket fpr to compensate i just wana make shure i order all the needed parts , i only get 1 week hometime per month so if i fail to get all the correct parts to hook it all up i basicly wait an entire month , i no longer after to leave asap
what fittings did u have to get to add the fpr to the stock rail? i have no problem adding the aftermarket fpr to compensate i just wana make shure i order all the needed parts , i only get 1 week hometime per month so if i fail to get all the correct parts to hook it all up i basicly wait an entire month , i no longer after to leave asap
below is the tie in fittings

at your regulator -- your going to need what it requires (-an fitting size)

on mine I adapted from a -6 hose into the regulators -4

then out of the regulator with a barbed fitting on the return side. this goes direct to firewall hose---does not pass go at the shitty j-pipe



249730

249728


249731
 

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Something like this

20200407_192850.jpg

I am selling it as you see with fittings. :)

Pm me if intrested.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
below is the tie in fittings

at your regulator -- your going to need what it requires (-an fitting size)

on mine I adapted from a -6 hose into the regulators -4

then out of the regulator with a barbed fitting on the return side. this goes direct to firewall hose---does not pass go at the shitty j-pipe



View attachment 249730
View attachment 249728

View attachment 249731
ty so much , am i am
below is the tie in fittings

at your regulator -- your going to need what it requires (-an fitting size)

on mine I adapted from a -6 hose into the regulators -4

then out of the regulator with a barbed fitting on the return side. this goes direct to firewall hose---does not pass go at the shitty j-pipe



View attachment 249730
View attachment 249728

View attachment 249731
ty for this , what i needed , i heard about this j tube is also good idea to get rid of , can i go -6an witha hose all the way to fuel filter , replace that with a -6an filter and go strait to fuel pump hard line from tank?? hate to half ass the fuel system since i plan on puting. larger injectors soon as shes back on the road , i have a mapecu to install want to take advantage of a full fuel system upgrade
 

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.. i have a mapecu to install want to take advantage of a full fuel system upgrade
the only thing the MAP ecu is good for is the Bucket shovel mod. Where you will be picking up the pieces of the 7m after a BHG.
 

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yes, everyone should sell their vintage electronics. please for pennies on the $

my "vintage" maft pro was all of $60

anyway what figgie is pointing out is any time you increase the max hp potential of the 7mgte electronics (raise fuel cut) by scaling down the air flow signal....you run crazy timing advance

you can do this with vintage alphabet soup map ecu / hks / maft
or new expensive map-3 ecu

its all the same - same risk of jacked timing.

now if you have a wideband 02 and can data log, have access to high octane fuel, some patience, persistence and a brain... you can push the oem computer / injectors to maybe 350-380 whp

my full weight targa, with spare tire in the trunk trapps @ 110, prob right in that range



anyway back to the fuel system. why replace the hard lines, they are not really a bottle neck. the oem filter is not either. bottlenecks in oem fuel system I see are

1. j-tube / oem pump (these are tied in my mind)
2. oem regulator (can only take so much pump/ flow)
3. fittings on top of tank that pass power to internal tank wiring (rivvet that corrodes)
4. oem chassis wiring/ relay/ resistor - dual speed is not needed


all the above has to go first before new lines / upgraded style filters imho

in my pictures above the car is all physically oem (besides 255hp in tank) right up until the end of the rail. I think I could remove the pulsation dampner as they fail and my understanding is they are not needed so much
 

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I think I could remove the pulsation dampner as they fail and my understanding is they are not needed so much
And when they fail, they spray fuel all over the engine bay....
Who was it said "Fire, Fire, Fire", was it butt head or beavis ?
 
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