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I'm currently running conventional oil on my new motor during break in. And I was wondering when would it be the right time to switch over to synthetic motor oil?

I currently have 1,000 miles on the new long block now.

Cons
 

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Super Moderator!!ON PATROL ALL OVER!!
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conszx said:
I'm currently running conventional oil on my new motor during break in. And I was wondering when would it be the right time to switch over to synthetic motor oil?

I currently have 1,000 miles on the new long block now.

Cons
i use to do it at 1000 miles but i have been informed 2000 is a better # to do it at .

now im not 100% sure but that what im going to do o this new motor i just had done..
 

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Getrag Gearhead
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I usually start my motors up on conventional out so that the assembly lube disolves. At around 50 miles or 2 hours on the block I change out the oil and filter and start using synthetic from there on. I'd run synthetic oil on initial fire up if needed but 2 hr run time on synthetic seems like a pricey proposition since I don't charge the customer for 12 qts of oil and 2 filters. Guys will swear about how it prevents ring seal but my compression numbers show no difference. Have had no issues on any engine I've ever built to this date.

-Joe
 

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Alpine Hardtopper
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Carchitect,

Great to read your post about using synthetic for break-in. It seems to be common on the internet for everyone to say "Don't break-in with synthetic...keeps your rings from seating." But I wonder how much of a myth it is, and it's just spread to the point that everyone believes it. Considering how many engines you've put in, that seems like a fantastic data point! Thanks for sharing-
 

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cord4530 said:
Carchitect,

Great to read your post about using synthetic for break-in. It seems to be common on the internet for everyone to say "Don't break-in with synthetic...keeps your rings from seating." But I wonder how much of a myth it is, and it's just spread to the point that everyone believes it. Considering how many engines you've put in, that seems like a fantastic data point! Thanks for sharing-
I say going to added mile to ensure the engine is properly taken care of my a few extra oil changes is no big deal. Also considering that built engine packages (e.g. from Dart, and many other companies) often recommend dino oil for the first few changes, why not "drop the pan"a few more times so you sleep better at night?

This debate will continue to be ongoing because of our passion for these cars. If you go on www.mkiv.com you can read a very interesting article on this, just as you can find these resources over the internet from reputable, experienced individuals.

- Vic
 

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Considering how many manfactures (Porsche, Mercedes Benz, GM,Dodge Viper,Volvo,AMG,Aston Martin etc.) now use Mobil 1 as factory break in fill in so many new cars I think carchitect's hands on experiance only helps to blow this myth out of the water. Only reason I wouldn't is exactly what carchitect said, you wanna replace the oil soon after the fill to remove all the clean up left over and why would you blow a $25 case of synthetic oil on that.
 

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Getrag Gearhead
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Kal said:
.....why would you blow a $25 case of synthetic oil on that.
My point exactly. The conventional oil that I use for the first 50 miles is there only for cleaning out the assembly lube. I don't like to leave that stuff in there feel it can cause the oil to degrade quicker than it would by itself. Its mixture with the oil may not be 100% compatible for the filtering elements so for those reasons I flush it out as soon as possible. The first 50 miles helps me tune in the AFRs and I won't need to worry too much about an overly rich mixture washing fuel into the oil. Sometimes an overly rich mixture is unavoidable since overly lean isn't very good. So I might start out a few cells of the map pig rich and then lean them out. Usually once the fuel is done is when I change out the oil and proceed with the tuning the timing.

-Joe
 
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