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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I recently just finished putting togeather my New Oem short block.
I replaced the oil pump,strainer baffleplate & put a new NA oil cooler with plans to add an external cooler. The head was sent out to get the valves and seals redone as well as GSC s2 cams.
The motor had over 1000 miles on it and tuned on E85. Timing was in 11-12* @my boost level of 24psi. The fuel was .78 lambda across the range.
Rev limiter set to 8000.
I did a couple highway pulls and noticed some rod knock.
I checked it out and its cyl #1.
Any Idea what could cause this?Oil was always at level. The car has a NA top oil pan drilled out for the return line and a NA lower pan. Could this be an issue?
The car was making less than 700whp with peak torque at 6000rpm.
 

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Was this a brand new short block from toyota? If so rumors have it that they are not built correctly from the factory in "Mexico". People have sent them out to their machines shops and noticed them out of spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes it was brand new OEM. I purchased it from a local Toyota dealer here in Boston in Feburary of this year. Thats disturbing to hear that they are not built correctly. I thaught I was doing th right thing buying a New shortblock. Any chance they will honor an exchange for another one?
 

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I'd be after parts and labour for replacing the bearings. What year were these new engines built? I wonder if having a crank sitting on bearings for years may be the cause?
 

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Yes it was brand new OEM. I purchased it from a local Toyota dealer here in Boston in Feburary of this year. Thats disturbing to hear that they are not built correctly. I thaught I was doing th right thing buying a New shortblock. Any chance they will honor an exchange for another one?
Dam sorry to hear. Probably not.
 

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Ya Titan and I think sound performance provide factory short block Clearance checks at a cost before they ship a short block. MVP does it too. There have been many reports of bad short blocks from Toyota, unfortunately you seem to be part of the statistic. As far as the warranty goes I have no idea. Best of luck to you!
 

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Same thing happened to me too.

What motor oil were you runnIng?


Craig
 

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IIRC I thought Curt denied the Mexico Rumor?

None the less ...

*** Factory Warrantee against manufacturing defects found at time of assembly. NO WARRANTEE on improperly installed, foreign objects in oil system,poor tuning,too rich, too lean, over-reved,forgot to put oil in, forgot to add coolant, leaking gaskets, too much boost, no break-in period, improper break-in procedures,clogged oil cooler from previous blown motor, contaminated oil cooler,improper torque of main / rod bolts,detionation,knock sensors not functioning, bad fuel MAP on your AEM/ MAP ECU/Greddy E-manage/HKS-VPC,improper cam clearances, Meth injection not set-up properly,E85 FUEL etc etc etc
 

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IIRC I thought Curt denied the Mexico Rumor?

None the less ...

*** Factory Warrantee against manufacturing defects found at time of assembly. NO WARRANTEE on improperly installed, foreign objects in oil system,poor tuning,too rich, too lean, over-reved,forgot to put oil in, forgot to add coolant, leaking gaskets, too much boost, no break-in period, improper break-in procedures,clogged oil cooler from previous blown motor, contaminated oil cooler,improper torque of main / rod bolts,detionation,knock sensors not functioning, bad fuel MAP on your AEM/ MAP ECU/Greddy E-manage/HKS-VPC,improper cam clearances, Meth injection not set-up properly,E85 FUEL etc etc etc
This
 

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When you replace be sure to prime your oil pump before initial start up...
Make sure you are not using any 90 degree fittings connecting to the oil cooler, can cause bubbling in the pump area.
I know it's a big pain in ass how this went down for you, but for extra insurance you could as well plastic gauge the bottom end to check the clearances before you install it and also use plenty on assembly lube on the bearings, I use a thick honey oil in the oil pump for the initial start up on all my fresh built engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Could it be that the stock rod bearings are too soft of a material? I don't think the NA oil pans I used would affect anything,since they are practically the same after drilling out the oil return port.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm going to take it appart this weekend and see what went wrong. Should I replace it with oem bearings or aftermarket race ones? Anybody have a specific brand in mind?
 

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Hey funny story... I had the same thing happen last month. 2500 miles. Sorry to hear man!
 

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I'm going to take it appart this weekend and see what went wrong. Should I replace it with oem bearings or aftermarket race ones? Anybody have a specific brand in mind?
I would just replace the oem bearings and trust washers with something like ACL Racing series bearings and trust washer. ^_^
 
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