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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought this car in around 2005. 1987 Turbo, 5 speed. Broke down in '98. I bought it from an older lady who's son had been trying to convince her to just sell it after it had broken down. I worked for him and had seen it sitting in a carport and fell in love. She knew it was or would be worth more, but only took $500 dollars for it. Took me 6 months to save up for it as I was a starving 21yo. She made me promise though that I would not sell it till it was running, that I would not part it out, and that I would pick her up and give her a ride in it if I got it running. I have no idea if she is even alive anymore(she was in her sixties when I bought it), but I am finally in a place in my life where I am able to get it running. When I do, I will see if she is able to take that drive. Her son said it was a head gasket, she was an experienced mechanic in the Air Force and said she thought she could hear a wristpin was going out. I thought that was crazy for the longest time but discovered years ago when taking it apart that it had taken a beating on piston assembly #6, with the wristpin and rod bearing not doing so good. Even though I had taken it apart a long time ago, so far it looks like I still have most of the nuts and bolts and all of the parts. It's taken a lot of cleaning, machining, grinding and painting. There was a lot of corrosion from somebody's failed hg replacement sitting in the bores for a long time and also all of the parts sitting too long in the wrong places. Even though I am in the assembly process it is painstakenly slow as I try to figure out which bolt and nut and plug goes where. But I thought I would post some pictures for everybody in a bit. I don't have any good ones of the car but maybe I'll take a couple too. It is in a garage with suck lighting fyi. Hopefully I'll be rolling it outside to start it in a few weeks when the engine, gas tank, tires, brakes, clutch and oil lines, intercooler, pipes, radiator, reserve cap, master cylinder, slave cylider, yada yada are all finished either being cleaned or replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
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View attachment 258779 Here are some pictures of the car. The paint is actually really nice except for the top nose piece in front, and some clear coat on the targa top. It is just extremely dusty. I've been reconditioning the seats and other leather with leather oil the last couple months but it is this lightweight stuff and I think some of the reconditioning has only been lightly superficial. I think I'm going to get leather glove oil and work that in there, see what it does. The problem area is the top edges of the backseats.
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I was actually able to find the ABS master cylinder assembly in a listing on ebay a few weeks ago. He only had 6 of them. I bought them all. I am selling the extras for $350 a piece. Ok I'm joking, I bought only the one I needed. Also, if anyone is interested to know, the coolant reserve tank cap from my 94 pickup fits on the supra's reserve tank, so there is one of those on order(Edit: Whether it being the condition of the sub-tank or being ever so slightly bigger, I had to use light sandpaper to meet fitment)(was very happy when I discovered that as they are discontinued for the supra).
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Gates hose set, look like nice hoses.
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Got a lot of parts from Toyota of El Cahon online. The prices are WAY lower than walking in my local dealership. I usually recieve them in a couple days, and don't have to wait in line forever every time. Other parts from DM and SS, Jegs for the comp cams valve springs, ebay too but got ripped on my valves and also an oil pump. Guy was selling the oil pump as brand new and it arrived with rust on the splines and beach sand in the internals. He stuck me with it even after I returned it and ebay is giving me the run-around. Eagle rods, Carillo pistons, shimmed oil pump just under 4mm, the oil hardpipe upgrade, comp cam springs, new turbo; steel turbo, clutch, and cold start lines. Cometic hg. ARP head bolts, crank bolts, rod bolts. Locking ring, a real walbro, I have a turbo back 3" exhaust with divorced wastegate downpipe, but I want to still be able to pass emissions so I will probably use just the cat back.
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Don't know what brand it is, so if you recognize it let me know. Picked up what I think is an hks cold air intake a few years ago too. I might be wrong on that.
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Whole hell of a lot of other factory parts for the misc items worn out from sitting parts. Fan shroud, Koyo alum. radiator, gas cap, oil cap, rad cap, clutch & flexplate, master cylinder, slave cylinder and more. It sat under cover in a carport for quite a few years until I was able to get it into a garage. It was covered too, but uv light and heat still managed to do their magic through the slats of light it was exposed to and the hood was removed. A lot of this I had to get recently, but I've been collecting different parts for years.
I'm only going to put in what it absolutely needs to get running at first, with the upgrades I have already, but wanted to build the bottom end up now instead of later. That way, I can add later upgrades relatively easily. I want to figure out if I will pass emissions with other upgrades before I buy them: 550s, afm, safc, 57 trim turbo, high flow cat. So please if anybody knows the answers to these questions I would greatly appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I only have my hour lunchbreak, and very limited time in the evenings or the morning to work on it, so I can only clean and refurbish a part or two at a time, but I am getting close. I had to repaint everything on the engine anyway, so I chose a radical combination of colors.
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The oil pan definitely had to be repainted(it was the cause of the rod knock), and I wanted to paint it white, also the plates that go on the back of the block(so I could spot leaks easier and faster) so I had to pick a color that went with white and not blue(last thing I wanted was everything white or everything blue as everything else on this car is already blue). I picked red. I threw in a little blue though, because the car is blue, and the eagle rods and arp hardware make it an American engine too(cheesy, I know). I think it is turning out really cool.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is where I am on the engine right now.
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Like I said, just a little at a time, bit by bit. I am very close though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I am currently restricted on what I can do to the car because I want to be able to pass visual and emissions smog laws, so I just got finished porting my stock turbo elbow. It'd be cool to open it all the way and weld some new side pieces in but I am not a welder and there is a chance it could fail visual. I cut a new path, rounded and sanded it on the turbo side. There was a lip from the casting on the exhaust side as well which I cut, blended down, and sanded. Just trying to slippin the path of those exhaust gasses for a little better exit and spool time. You have to be careful how open you make the back of the CT26 anyways so I think this'll do just fine. Got a turbo off a spare motor that that divorced wastegate came off of. The hot side is cracked right across the wastegate. Ran it too hot, too fast.
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Does anybody know if the gasket surfaces are clean and smooth enough to seal? It was rusted up pretty good and I managed to remove the rust and clean up the surfaces really well. Only surface rust on turbo side except for up near the top. It was pitted on the exhaust side gasket surface so I tried to smooth it out as best I could. If no, how about with those CAT graphite gaskets on DM? Thank you in advance for any input or advice anybody could give me on any step of this build.
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Do I need to get it machined?

I also remove my IC and oil cooler with lines and rinsed them out with gasoline and got them really clean. Unfortunately my stock IC rubber hoses are in shoddy shape. Has anybody passed smog with the pipe kit for the 7m sold at cxracing that retains the stock BOV and IC? Only going to have it up to the 3000 pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just got my valve covers back from the powder coater's. Painted and installed my vacuum hard lines onto the intake manifold too but forgot to get a picture. Don't know if my alternator was on or not since last update, but it is on now.
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Tonight I cleaned up the cps and installed a new cover and gasket on that. I also cleaned up the cover for the plug galley.
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If everybody didn't know, the cap assembly for our coolant reserve tank or overflow reservoir is discontinued. Luckily I have a 94 pickup and matched its cap against the old rotted supra one and they seemed to be identical, so I ordered one for a 94 pickup 2wd 22re. It is a tight fit, I actually have to sand the rim of the bottle down just a little to get it to snap on there. Also have to trim the down tube and use the pickup from the bottom of your old tube. Your welcome, unless everybody else knows an easier route. If you do, tell me please.
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It's nice seeing new parts and paint on this. White oil pan, eh? You like living dangerously, ha.
 

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Speaking of dangerous. The green air filter is indeed an HKS air filter, but it is also known as the HKS mushroom of death. It's known for the foam to break off over time and get sucked in. I wouldn't use it if I were you, especially since it's likely very aged by now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks man. Hopefully it runs like it looks. I should be dropping it in the car this weekend, maybe some heat cycles if I have the time. Have to change the master cylinder, slave cylinder, rinse out the gas tank and install the walbro, of coarse the rad and intercooler pipes too yada yada. I built my 22re with my stepdad, but he's no longer kickin'. He taught me a lot though and helped me pull the motor after I bought the car. It's cool to finish up something he started with me. So this is my first motor, where it's just me building it. Kind of nervous, but pretty sure I got it. I tried to restore the engine the best I could except for the upgrades like the rods, pistons and hardware for those, just a few other bolts, and my chrome valve cover bolts. All bolts on it are at factory torque specs(except for head studs). The number on the engine is 000211 and didn't come with oil squirters so I left them out and didn't machine them in, 6m crank was in it and I was able to use standard size bearings, rust neccesitated overbore of .02, kept the compression ratio 8.4 with the hg and pistons. I'm very interested in finding out what it feels like to drive it. Stock power but a little faster and higher revving with the flywheel, rods, pistons, and springs. Kept the stock pulleys all around. I guess it will have more boost with the catback & if I get a cold air intake. I have the intercooler pipe kit from cx but am worried I'll be near fuel cut with it on. Any oinions on this?
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Wow. Would of never known that. Is it just a matter of changing the foam periodically, or is it a constant risk? Also, does the stock filter come with a new gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Could never find any pictures or installation instructions for the flywheel bolts locking ring from DM, so I took a wild guess. Put a bunch of other parts on, attached the transmission. Replaced brake master cylinder, ss line replacing the rubber hose going to the slave cylinder. Getting my tires mounted on my rims at the moment. Hopefully when I get back home I install the engine! Having trouble uploading pics right now, will try to upload some in a bit.
 

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Wow. Would of never known that. Is it just a matter of changing the foam periodically, or is it a constant risk? Also, does the stock filter come with a new gasket?
I believe it's just a constant risk with time/use, and I have defintely seen chunks of it get sucked in/missing. Aside from that, it just doesn't filter very well. I think you're better off just getting a K&N oil filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I believe it's just a constant risk with time/use, and I have defintely seen chunks of it get sucked in/missing. Aside from that, it just doesn't filter very well. I think you're better off just getting a K&N oil filter.
This caused me to do more reading on the subject. I will go with oem now, unless I get a box for an Amsoil or something of equal grade. Didn't realize K&N and HKS filters let thru that much fine particulate. Thanks for the advice.
 

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This caused me to do more reading on the subject. I will go with oem now, unless I get a box for an Amsoil or something of equal grade. Didn't realize K&N and HKS filters let thru that much fine particulate. Thanks for the advice.
I think a WIX air filter would be fine for you too,

I've read different things about the K&N one, the last being some dude from a 300ZX forum or something and him concluding the K&N oil ones aren't that good. My take, is that if you keep the air filter oiled, clean, and use a good engine oil filter, then it's okay. Then again, I'm not actually doing data collection like that dude did. :p.

Using a good oil filter like WIX is good too. I've always used WIX, except on the Rolla, I used Genuine Toyota, as I remember back in the day a bunch of drag Supras were testing oil filtration, and the conclusion from their racing was that the OEM filter was best, and WIX was right behind/next to it, while everything else wasn't even a consideration.

BTW, your cam covers got me inspired to work on my 7M cam covers and SBC rocker covers. Purely wall art, really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, time has gone by and I am almost finished with my build. I will have the car on a lift in the next week or so and once I have it up I'll take pictures of any mods and work for you guys. I see on videos that when these guys have fresh rebuilds it can take a bit of cranking and work to get it to start, but mine started in about two revolutions of the starter. Very sweet. Have some pics.
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Came out very nice!! Cant wait to see this in person, I’m from the Fresno area as well!! My fully built 7m fired up fairly quick as well!! Good stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think a WIX air filter would be fine for you too,

I've read different things about the K&N one, the last being some dude from a 300ZX forum or something and him concluding the K&N oil ones aren't that good. My take, is that if you keep the air filter oiled, clean, and use a good engine oil filter, then it's okay. Then again, I'm not actually doing data collection like that dude did. :p.

Using a good oil filter like WIX is good too. I've always used WIX, except on the Rolla, I used Genuine Toyota, as I remember back in the day a bunch of drag Supras were testing oil filtration, and the conclusion from their racing was that the OEM filter was best, and WIX was right behind/next to it, while everything else wasn't even a consideration.

BTW, your cam covers got me inspired to work on my 7M cam covers and SBC rocker covers. Purely wall art, really.
Thanks chevydude. After a bunch of reading with direction of your advice, I ended up getting an AEM dryflow filter. It seems to work great, but since this is the first and only Supra I have owned or driven I have no comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Came out very nice!! Cant wait to see this in person, I’m from the Fresno area as well!! My fully built 7m fired up fairly quick as well!! Good stuff!
Thank you, I appreciate that. Maybe I'll see you around. So far I have seen a white one from a distance, and what I think I remember was a light blue one driven by an older guy. The latter looked really nice.
 

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Thanks chevydude. After a bunch of reading with direction of your advice, I ended up getting an AEM dryflow filter. It seems to work great, but since this is the first and only Supra I have owned or driven I have no comparison.
You're welcome. Just doin' what I can.

Even though it's your first go around, how are you liking the car, and the engine since that's what you've obviously put a lot of time on. These 7Ms are stupid smooth, and can be stupid quiet, just keep the hood closed :p
 
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