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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, you know the old car enthusiast saying, "Since I'm down there I might as well anyway". What was supposed to be just a cam swap because of a worn cam lobe on the #2, has snow balled. :crying: Also, car was bought brand new from dealer in '66 by grandfather, then given to dad, then me. :crazy:

The car? A '66 Impala Sport Coupe. What's a sport coupe? That's Chevy's fancy way to say 2-door car vs. the 4-door cars. More specs, it's a 327 .040 overbore from an old rebuild, which now makes it a 333. Oh, and get this.......three on the tree! People knock it, but talking to old-timers, it turns out drag racing the column shifts used to be an art-form back in the day. I'm not defending it, as I rather don't enjoy the 3spd, but more as a info bit from times gone by. If a T-56 fell into my lap I'd do it, but I have no intentions of that. Just want to get it going and drive. Idea behind this? Just get it running again after the cam swap.






Also not shown are a spin-on oil filter adapter, (which took me HOURS to install, HOURS), new harmonic balancer, an AL Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, JET brand race calibrated 750CFM Q-Jet. The Q-Jet's calibration is great! It's set up for throttle response. AL radiator, Derale fan. two-piece timing cover plate. ARP head bolts, AL heads, Comp Cams 268H hydraulic cam, Comp Cams lifters, roller rockers. HEI ignition, K&N filter.



More later and as it unfolds. Gotta' stop right now!

 

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Very nice! 10 years ago I had a 66' Impala sport coupe with a rebuilt 350 and powerglide. Loved that car, hope to get another one.
 

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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #3
Very nice! 10 years ago I had a 66' Impala sport coupe with a rebuilt 350 and powerglide. Loved that car, hope to get another one.
Thanks, Mack. Do you have any pics of it?

Anyways, with the stock configuration the camshaft is behind the timing gear cover, which is sandwiched under the oil pan. That means, the oil pan needed to get loose to remove the cover. However, I went ahead and got a one piece oil pan gasket. I had to drop the oil pan. Thus I had to disconnect the motor mount through bolts so as to lift the engine so I can drop the oil pan.



Dropping the oil pan proved less than straightforward. Raise engine, then disconnect steering rod so as to drop the oil pan.



After a while, I got the oil pan off. As you can see I installed the oil filter adapter from Derale. Of note, I found the supplied bolts to be too short. I gave up and went to Lowes and got some longer SS bolts, but I had to cut them down with my Dremel and torqued them down.

While down here, I cleaned off the surfaces and scraped remainder of old gasket, which some of that old gasket ended up in the oil pan.


Oil pan removed. Drained and wiped the remaining oil down there and also removed remaining gasket off too. No metal chunks or Wendy's frosty to be found on the bottom.



I also used a ball peen hammer and popped out as safely as I could the galley since it was a little beat up and pushed in here and there.




Here's the 2-piece gear plate. It's from Jegs. Ideally I wouldn't want chrome, but I saved the money and went with the chrome one. Ironically. The benefit of the 2-piece over stock is that if I need to get down to the cam or gears or chain, I won't have to deal with the oil pan again. Just remove the cover.




Here you see my extension pointing to the lip of the cover. It's a great idea to burr the chrome lip and get rid of the shine as it tends to not seal as well when it's just metal. So I got my Dremel and burred as best I could. You don't have to remove the chrome, just take the shine out.



These weren't like this when I took them off. I believe some of my clothes detergent ended up on this and accelerated the rust. I ended up getting my Dremel again with a SS bit. I remember the bottle fell and dumped a bunch of detergent everywhere. These apparently received a bunch of that. Keep in mind the detergent must have sat on the covers a minimum of one month.


The rust CHEWED up my SS bit.



The other cover had like, twice as much rust than the one up above. I didn't want to burn through another bit, so I lathered up the cover with chrome polish and removed as much as I could.



 

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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #4
Ironically enough, I'm more keen about where the new weight will be when this is all done vs. the new power. I know it'll have more power than before tear down, so for me it's wherever the cards fall. Before this, the car weighed about 3620lbs. I'm hoping For somewhere mid 3500lbs. A CF driveshiaft might be in plans too. I'm entertaining it for these reasons, weight, engine response, and most importantly smoothness.
 

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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)


New heads should be going on Saturday.

Here are the lifters getting soaked in oil. The idea behind this is that soaking these guys overnight forces the air-pockets out of them and helps lubricate for initial start up. Also, I'll be painting the valve covers in a particular scheme that I'm looking forward to. The cam, lifters and timing plate bracket have been installed. I also used a cam locking plate as well. Royal Purple engine break in oil is arriving tmrw, and carb should be done with the rebuild as well. I will also try and replace the HEI ignition wire that gets 12 volts with a 10ga. wire in order to replace the old resistor wire that is like an 18 ga. wire and is seriously not large enough to carry the load for the output of the HEI ignition.





 

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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Also, I open for suggestions of what mufflers to use for this. I have a single Dynomax turbo muffler and I kinda' like the sound, but the next thing I will be doing will be 2.5" ceramic coated Rams horn exhaust manifolds that go to an x-pipe and out to two mufflers that will exit in front of the rear wheels. I want to take advantage of the heads and cam I got. Note, I don't like the sound of glass packs at all, as they sound like controlled exhaust leaks, and Flow Masters sound so boring, but also like exhaust leaks. I'd like to get a unique sound. Heck, I've even contemplating getting 180 degree headers just for fun, but that to me seems expensive, and with pre-fabbed ones (Shoenfelds are less than $200) I am concerned just wouldn't work despite the size of the engine bay and lay out of the engine. I don't want a typical sounding old v8. Something smooth, tight, and unique. Thought of getting Borlas. I don't want this muscle car sound. ughh. just so not me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so04181YeuQ
 

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Rad car bud. My younger brother has had a 64 4-door, for about 10 years now, if memory serves. We jokingly call it the Six-Fo. Love riding in that car, just feels... classy.

As for the exhaust setup, have you heard 180 degree header setups? I wouldn't hesitate to do that for a second. Check it out, worth the trouble if you want a more unique sound!
 

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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I think Tuesday will be launch date.

Rad car bud. My younger brother has had a 64 4-door, for about 10 years now, if memory serves. We jokingly call it the Six-Fo. Love riding in that car, just feels... classy.

As for the exhaust setup, have you heard 180 degree header setups? I wouldn't hesitate to do that for a second. Check it out, worth the trouble if you want a more unique sound!

Lol. These b-bodies really do feel classy!

Those 180 headers! I haven't had the pleasure of hearing them in person, but vids make me want them!

This dude made these for his stock 350, and that wail it does is so, so, sexy! LISTEN!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-8uYCabSog

After it drives away skip to 30secs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhBPFwOL3jo

Sounds tight, smooth, and that wail!!! That sound coming out of an Impala. omg. lol. Bcause of the 4.10 rear, I think it will be amazingly loud while at highway speed. I think it'll be turning about 3,000 rpm.

Btw, I tried looking up for Blitz and HKS sbc exhaust vids just to broaden my options, but can't find any. ha.

These 180s based on all my countless vids I've watched give two results. 2-1 merge collectors seem to make more of a scream, while 4-1 seem to be more buzzy, kinda like a flat plane italian v8. 328 or 308 kinda, or even a sport bike.


Didn't get to the heads Saturday, but they did go on. They are 185cc heads with a 5-angle valve job along with pushrod guide plates. Also, went ahead and removed the remaining polish off from the valve covers. I then got my Dremel and SS wheel to try and remove more rust, and then wiped it down with mineral spirits to get prepped for primer. So, I primered the valve covers in high temp primer and maaaaaan do they look beautiful in gray primer! WOW. Almost a shame to paint them! They are curing, and I'll spray them with paint Monday. I'll also try and install the upgraded roller rockers tmrw along with the pushrods as well. I plan to also install the upgraded ignition wire. After the valves are dialed in, I'll try and get to the intake manifold to get it ready for cam break in by tomorrow afternoon or Tuesday. Almost ready!

 

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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #10

Put on the roller rockers.



Had to order some new push rods, as I didn't realize I should check the straightness of the push rods. Got these Comp Cams chromoly pushrods. Had to get chromoly since I'm using rod guides.



Royal Purple oil is actually a royal purple in color. Hmpf, who new.




Got these primered, but humidity has been crappy the days I'm ready to paint.
 

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Great build you have going on. It's going to be a blast to drive once its finished up.
 

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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #12
Sometimes I Wonder Why I Try so Hard.

Great build you have going on. It's going to be a blast to drive once its finished up.

Thanks. I'm looking forward to tomorrow.

Went from this



To this.



Lemme tell ya' sumpin, allow me to relate a story. A mild one at that.

These valve covers are "done". They took it seems about 26 hours to go from primer to this. This is what I had in mind when I mentioned I had plans for it. I'd say I'm pretty successful. It is not perfect, and very often towards the end, I had to tell myself aloud that I had stop and keep going w/regards to making it "perfect". I had to tell myself that as I would just get bogged down with the details. Actually, I've had to tell myself that quite a bit the past couple years. It's hard "letting go" with what you really want to do. I often push too much that it's unhealthy for my happiness/well being.

The body is satin black, with Chevrolet engine orange, and the bow-tie is chrome. While looking at the rusty valve covers, I thought to myself what I could do to not have all that chrome on there. I didn't want to paint it Chevy orange as the rest of the block was not getting any of that treatment, and I thought it would be too bright. Plus, I've seen so much damn Chevy orange that it's BoRinG!!! I wanted something subtle, stylish, and nice. Something with design! Of note, the two pin stripes are actually part of the raised stamping on the cover. I went with painting the stripes because I also wanted to continue suggesting the Chevy orange color/throwback, but I also wanted to help frame the script and bow-tie, while making use of the stamping, plus I think it looks cool. :agreed::loser:

While doing this I came across the idea that I would do a 2JZ inspired "cam cover" for these valve covers if I got a hold of any more. For it, I would use color as form to help "shape" that 2J-esque cam cover on the Chevy valve covers. It sounds strange, but the color and its lines would look great.
 

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I believe the saying is, "perfect is the enemy of good," no? Basically, get it to where you're happy enough you can live with it, knowing you did the best you could without causing undue stress. Remember, quit working on cars when it's no longer fun, or you'll soon find yourself bitter with the hobby.

That said, I think the valve covers turned out quite nicely. Reminds me of something you might have found on the early 90's 454SS trucks.
 

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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I'm borderling on bitter. Or, I've already passed that marker and just put up with it. I still have ideas, but don't have the persistence and or "ability" to do so. I'm an ideas person with out the capability, I think. I don't know if I doing this because it's fun, or because I need to. I tend to think it's due to that I want to because I keep telling myself I just want to hear the car running.

Thanks on the covers.

I had the intake manifold torqued down. Ordered new Edelbrock bolt kit and Gasgacinch to boot. The day after I got it torqued down, I realized I I left a small gap, penny thickness, on the intake ports because I didn't line up the gasket correctly. Took it off, and have been spending about 5 hours hunched over removing the old gaskets. Done. I ordered the new gaskets and they came in. I'll be doing it tomorrow. On the flip, I got the timing gear cover and water pump on. I forgot to put the timing indicator on, so I'll put that on tomorrow. Gotta' remove a couple bolts on the timing cover off. I think it'll be ok just removing those two right next to each other.

I keep telling myself to go out in the garage right now and bust more ass.......but gotta' not push too hard.
 

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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)



It's dialing in. Still gotta' get more things as things change and or are discovered. Need new battery power and ground cables battery for example.


Got the intake manfold, starter, carb, and few other pieces on. I will probably repaint the air cleaner at another point. Black again. but I'm not worried about it right now. The carb has been rebuilt. It's a JET "built" Stage 2 750CFM Q-Jet that's been recalibrated for throttle response.






Here's the throttle rod. As you can see, rusty and paint coming off. I figured I'd sand it down. Took my orbital, some 60 grit, and finished it wet sanding. I was going to leave it as such since I like the look of the bare metal, but rust kinda wants to return home. Considering the "J" shape of the rod, I think I might paint it in a candy cane scheme with red and white stripes after the car is running. I also had to make a couple bushings for the throttle rod where it attaches to the carburetor since it was loose and binding. I went to Lowe's and got some delrin bushings and then shaved them down with my Dremel, which by the way, is an invaluable tool to have.














Had these on another cam. That green stuff is Play-Doh. Yes, the same stuff you ate as a child, or possibly still enjoy nibbling on for those leisurely Sundays. I used Play-Doh, as it was easiest to cut without cutting into the primer down below as I would with tape. I have no idea why I did this. I saw it, and then boom, idea. As you can see though, it turned out well enough. I had someone say they didn't recognize those from the (GM Performance Parts) catalog. I guess that's a good sniff test. :scratch: I also had painted the valve covers hold downs and got new SS bolts for them too. Looks nice.


 

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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #16
Update:? So, because this is an "off year" small block, I'm having trouble locating an SST for the installation of the harmonic balancer Normally, there is a crank bolt to bolt down the balancer, but this year requires a couple SSTs to "drive" the balancer on. Jegs doesn't have anything, nor does any other specialty suppliers that the Jegs rep was checking. I'm at a bit of an impasse. This year uses a conical index to push on the balancer.
 

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Hardcore Night Warrior
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Discussion Starter #17

Looks like this. Might need to get it made from a machine shop? I don't know. The SSTs are that bracket thing and the cylinder.



 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)


I went ahead and dropped the tank to get rid of the old gas that was in there for peace of mind on start up. Two bolts and nuts by the bumper, and in the "rear" two fuel lines, and a ground and power wire for the fuel level sending unit.



For the balancer, it got baked in a toaster oven and hammered on using an aluminum plate used from a timing plate seal installer. This was done with the help of a retired mechanic acquaintance of mine. His name is Sam and has been an enormous boon through the install of parts.

These are the original to the car wheel covers, which were dug up from an odd secret stash.



Here are the bolts I mentioned earlier that have a a nice contrast that I wanted to get.


Also, going to get this alternator bracket as the original alternator bracket doesn't work with the new heads. :sad:



 

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Heh, "wanted to drop the tank and clean the old gas out" is how I ended up putting a fuel cell in my car... fortunately for you, replacement tanks are almost guaranteed to be available.

Looking good bud, keep it up!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
All I did was wash them and scrub 'em with a hard brush if needed.






Here's how the car would normally look with them on and same color. These things are hideous, lol.




The alternator bracket from Speedmaster was of bad QC. Nicked body, threading spun, then tight, spun, tight, spun, etc. oil and gunk on the other side of the threaded barrel. Also, it simply would have not work as it would not clear my exhaust manifolds. Looked pretty and cool though. when I called looking for a replacement and letting Jegs know that I am returning it, I was talking with Jegs tech rep, and he basically said to avoid anything from Speedmaster with SEC at the beginning of the part #.

The same tech was looking for like 30 mins for alternative and found one, but then I realized I would probably have to extend the harness since it relocated it to the passenger side.

Sam, took it upon himself to use one of his brackets he has and weld an extension to it and is a w.i.p.

 
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