[chevydude]

Heh, "wanted to drop the tank and clean the old gas out" is how I ended up putting a fuel cell in my car... fortunately for you, replacement tanks are almost guaranteed to be available.

Looking good bud, keep it up!

What did the fuel cell go in?

Yeah, tanks are around $120 and readily available

 

[chevydude]

Did some re-wire on the ignition setup. Also, I'm almost done with the wiring part, just gotta' connect the electric choke +V wire to my source, alreADY got it wired, just gotta put a terminal on it. :agreed:

I thought this was neat. I was removing the rust and saw SBC. Kinda' neat.

So, I'm not one of those people that say, "We did this" when they didn't in fact do it themselves. Sam, made this orange lower bracket by extending one he had and he painted it too. I painted the fuel line and also got the throttle rod prepped for the new paint scheme.

Got this and it looked it like was 50 years old before I Painted. No before pic.

Upper bracket Sam extended and painted as well.

Looks kinda But I'm kinda' getting tired of looking at it. Almost done. Need to plug in the the spark plug wires again since they didn't quite line up after I changed up the orientation of them.

Still deciding if I like the orange nut up top on the air cleaner lid. I guess if I'm still deciding then I'm just trying to like something I don't.

 

[plaaya69]

I always liked those heavy duty metal fan shrouds on the older vehicles, none of that plastic that gets brittle over time.

 

[chevydude]

I always liked those heavy duty metal fan shrouds on the older vehicles, none of that plastic that gets brittle over time.

I actually like the mid-year update with the plastic shroud more. Lol. Lighter, and more importantly, MUCH better design. Such so, that it's pretty much unchanged with other cars design wise up until now. "Modern"

As I said earlier, I thought of doing a candy cane themed throttle rod. I thought the tapping would be a snap, but it took many attempts to start it off right, plus actually finding the "correct" spiral.

I like it a lot! Actually, I like it more than the rocker arm covers. :lol: The red came out much darker (crimsony) than I thought it would. In fact, due to the white "base" I thought it would lighten it a lot, but nope. I may paint it another red later to get the red to pop more.

Oh, yeah; I got some new Mr. Gasket wire looms since the last ones broke (plastic got brittle, ) but they function better anyway. I also replaced the spark plug wires with some Accel wires. I would've like some more grey ones, but these were easily available and longer, which I needed three longer wires, than a more stock application.

 

[chevydude]

 

[chevydude]

It runs! Cam break in and various checks were uneventful, as Sam said, it was a lot easier than he thought it'd be. Started on the 3rd attempt. No leaks, no hiccups at starting and re-started no problem after shutdown. The engine at speed while driving is so damn buttery smooth! WOwowoWOWOOWOowowowowW!!! SMOOTH running through the rpm, and it doesn't feel like it's trying. Didn't get on it, but I like the rasp it's got now. Takes off with no throttle input and clutch engagement. Ughhh, it's sooo nice! Got a couple things to address, but might go get it registered and insured tomorrow. Haha.

 

[plaaya69]

Sweet. Your hard work has paid off

 

[chevydude]

Thanks, plaaya

 

[Twin2Turbo]

cool build, looks like fun.

I'd look into the Royal Purple oil though, theres alot of negative feedback from that oil breaking down prematurely. Personally I'd look into running Amsoil or Redline.
Would hate to see your build get eaten up by inferior oil.

 

[chevydude]

Thanks, Twin2Turbo for the headsup. I know break-in oil is not engineered for longevity and does break down prematurely before regular motor oil, but I'm not running it long term and will be running four qts. of Castrol 5/20 and then adding a qt. of zinc additive. I'll be changing the oil to Castrol with a few more miles.

 

[chevydude]

Also, it's just not me. Friend came over to help me with some electrical issues on the tails (I think Chevy engineers thought itd be good to run lights in series as often times if one thing goes out all kinds of issues pop up). I got the lights sorted out and we went to get some 93. He commented that it feels like it wasn't trying as we went down the road. So, it's good to hear that it's not just me noticing it. It's running really well!

 

[te72]

What did the fuel cell go in?

Yeah, tanks are around $120 and readily available

Fuel cell went into a big hole in the trunk of my Supra. The stock tank had a lot of rust in it from the God only knows how old gas that had been in it for years.

 

[chevydude]

I was cleaning up my bookmarks and came across this thread and thought I'd revisit it. Most of my time with this car since then has been thinking about what's next. Also, I apparently suck at putting on intake manifolds. I did it three or four times and threw the towel it and had a shop I trust do it. I think he did it about 8 months ago? No problems since. lol. These past few months the engine keeps driving better, and better. It's running great. It's carbed, and it fires up on the first go. It's great. Also, put some StopTech rear drum brakes since the brakes broke. Haha.

By spending time thinking of what I'll be doing, most of it has been suspension and exhaust related. I've got a new front end kit with polygraphite bushings from P-S-T that are waiting to be installed while I collect other parts. I've decided to go with upgraded solid front and rear sway bars, upgraded tubular upper control arms, and upgraded lower control arms. I'm going with upgraded control arms so I can dial in more caster, a lot more, as these B-Bodies respond very well to caster since they weren't dial in because of the old bias-ply tire suspension tuning. I'll be ordering these polygraphite body mounts by the time yall read this. https://p-s-t.com/i-23159837-polygraphite-body-mount-kit.html#!year=1966||make=CHEVROLET||model=IMPALA
I'll be getting loweringn springs too, as the front end is WAY UP now that I've taken so much weight off such as aluminum heads, aluminum manifold, upgraded/hi-flo aluminum weiand water pump, aluminum radiator. The stance should look better, but I think it'll still be too high with the weight savings I've done, plus plan to do. The car weighs about 3580 lbs now and will likely be breaking into the 3400 lbs range soon just swapping body panels. I'm considering making my own CF hood, as I didn't realize CF fabric now exists. One of the last suspension related things I'll be doing will be adjustable trailing arms, which will be this kit. https://p-s-t.com/i-23157929-adjustable-red-boxed-rear-trailing-arm-kit.html#!year=1966||make=CHEVROLET||model=IMPALA
After the rear lowering springs go in, it will change the suspension geometry, and in order to bring everything back in place, I'll need to be able adjust it using those. Other things needing to address will be a quicker ratio gear box, and steering rag joints. List to get and do? Body mounts, front and rear sways, springs, steering box, rag joint, rear control arm kit.Suspension should be done by that point. I don't have any interest in coil over at this point.

I also decided to get these ceramic ram horns. Ceramic to keep heat down, ram horns as they are on par with shorty headers.Long tube headers are a few hp better, but mainly at the top end. I don't plan to spend a lot of time there, and the ram horns are best low and mid, which is where I'll be. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30130/10002/-1?ymm=4294829712+4294829791+4294829174

For mufflers? I think I'll be either going with SpinTechs, or Dynomax Super Turbos. The Super Turbos are only 40 a piece and sound good. SpinTechs? Sound cool, but they look cheap and look suspect to rusting. I think they are hand made? So, 2.5" ram horns to an X-Pipe, to a left and right muffler running a side exit right in front of the rear wheel and DTM tips to finish it off. One DTM style tip for the driver and the other psger side. Should sound sick bouncing off walls I'm next to since the sound is bouncing straight off the wall and to my ear. I'll have ordered the manifolds by the time you read this too.

OBX Stainless Universal Round DTM Single Wall Tip | eBay

OBX Universal 2.25"-Inlet T46 Dual Round DTM Muffler Tip With Straight Cut. OBX RACING SPORTS. OBX Racing Sports Stainless Steel Exhaust Tip. Stainless Steel. Accessories on photo are included. Products sold do not carry DOT, SAE or CARB approval.

www.ebay.com

Here are cam specs. It's got a choppy idle. Choppier than I'd like, but it apparently is well suited for my intake manifold rev range.
Lift: .454''/.454"
Duration: 268°/268°

More on wheels later. Can you guess which Work Meister wheels I want?

 

[chevydude]

So, just waiting on some more parts to come in. eBay offers work, even if they aren't taking offers. Haha. Because of my time here, my palette with regards to styling cues has grown and become more refined As such, I've been looking at other alternatives to wheels and tuning. Tuning such as the suspension with all the performance oriented mods. Yes, the age necessitates replacement, but I didn't want just rubber bushings. Also, my approach with this car isn't a hot rod, a resto-mod, cruiser etc. I don't like labels, but I do like having my approach the way I want. With that said, I've realized that what I'm doing takes on a GT/Gran Tourer approach. Which is odd, because the car is actually so long, and kinda' wide. It's longer than a Suburban.

In case you're wondering why these last two posts sound so blog-esque, well it's because this forum needs content. It's slowing down here!

After I'm done with my '66 911, I'll be focusing a lot on the '66 Impala. Again, because of this forum I eventually want to go single turbo. lol. That will be a bit of a hassle. One, the engine is rather high-compression. 10.5 is factory, but I suspect it may be higher due to a shorter deck from an old rebuild. For example, in the summer I couldn't go past 6.5* on timing because it started pinging a hair beyond that. Yesterday ,I advanced the timing to 8* in this cold weather and it's just fine due to cooler intake temps. REALLY woke up the cam! Lighting up the tires is hilarious, and terribly easy. lol. I mention all that because it'll either be 6-8 lbs of boost as it is, or tear the engine down and get lower compression pistons and full engine build for sake of safety.

Again, I mentioned wheels and influence here, but I am really wanting to get these Work Meister wheels. My bolt pattern isn't the same, and I don't think the center spindle/hub would fit since it's so different, but I'd really like to get in to this style. Looks beautiful and I think it'd look great lowered and on 16" diameter ( I don't like big wheels on old cars, it takes so much away from the form).

http://www.workwheelsusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/M13P.png

Meister M1 3P

WARNING: California Residents - Cancer and Reproductive Harm / www.p65warnings.ca.gov Available Color Finishes Gallery Vehicles Equipped With WORK Meister M1 3P Wheels

www.workwheelsusa.com

Any suggestion or options? I DON'T like the usual old car style wheels. I'm going to need new wheels (tires really) right after the suspension is done/soon, and I don't want to buy new tires for something I'm soon going to replace anyway. Eitherway, I want to steer away from Starbucks ubiquitous styling and these are encroaching on that. A few exceptions, these look nice and no worries about fitment either.

MHT U10715806145: U107 US Mag Standard Cast Aluminum Wheel Size: 15" x 8" | JEGS

Buy MHT U10715806145 at JEGS: MHT U107 US Mag Standard Cast Aluminum Wheel Size: 15

www.jegs.com

While cleaning up my bookmarks, I forgot I some how stumbled upon this. I'm surprised it's TUV, etc. certified safe. Why am I posting this? I'd consider cross-car culture polinating.

https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB19xfHKpXXXXayXFXXq6xXFXXXP/China-factory-auto-parts-car-alloy-rims.jpg

https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1QPMUSXXXXXbqapXXq6xXFXXXP/plati-alloy-wheel.jpg

 

[chevydude]

I've been ordering parts here and there, and to my surprise some things I didn't realize were needed, I have available for purchase. For example, I ordered this bushing kit while looking for hood bushings to line up my hood, and it was just a few dollars more so why not? To my surprise upon arrival, I found that the bushing kit had a bushing for the glove box. What?, there's a bushing that goes there? As seen here. that little nub just above the "headlights" is the bushing for the glove box, which actually helps "push" out the glovebox when you open it up. For ages I kept lubing and trying to find an alignment for it since the box wouldn't open without the help of the key to pop it open. Another thing I found to my surprise was a grommet for the dimmer switch, again I didn't realize I needed/could get.

I wanted to mention that, because I really want to stress the importance of restoration parts for the A80,70, ETC. If that heritage program for the Supra is true, then yall should be begging for everything you can get from Toyota. Heck, petition Soffseal themselves as they've been around forever and make reproduction rubber/weatherstripping. Performance Suspension Technology www.p-s-t-.com (which I have no ties to but get parts from) has RE-introduced Celica suspension rebuild kits and are back by popular demand. They have kits for the Celica, and Celica Supra too.

Other things I've addressed are the hood to cowl weatherstrip. Removal was easy, but the original parts broke off in chunks as it was hardened and brittle. A couple years ago I had made a nylon bushing for the throttle rod bushing as I couldn't find anything to replace it, but was able to find (by accident again) throttle rod bushings. An incredible difference! Smooth, soft, extremely responsive, and it feels like it gained more power. GREAT, great, great.

Pictured are one of three nylon bushings I made for the shift linkage. I started making those after I started to do a shift linkage adjustment once I realized the original bushings were detoriated and there was actually a lot of slack with about half an inch of travel to a quarter inch. Alignment and bushing making took a LONG time, two days, but it feels like I've got a short shift kit now. Most of the improvement has come from the linkage adjustment. I need to get under the car again and see if the third gear has space for a bushing at the shift rod to transmission, but I suspect it does.

 

[chevydude]

Here are my "CAD" drawings I made for future reference. I got the nylon spacers from Lowe's *EDIT I GOOFED, IT SHOULD BE CM AND NOT MM. I also revised the design and took some of the height down about 2mm.

I also ordered a bunch of other steering and suspension related components and polygraphite body mounts this Black Friday, as I suspected sales going on. Sure enough, there were. Home Depot also carries MOOG suspension components, ironically enough. Free shipping, just go pick it up.

 

[chevydude]

So, I've been messing around with this the past couple of days. The car has a tendency to slowly creep the temp at idle when stationary when temps are +82* It's definitely not a cooling capacity issue as it only happens stationary and temps are fine when moving, even in first gear, plus six blade larger diameter fan, aluminum heads, aluminum manifold, aluminum radiator, and hi-flo AL water pump. I've concluded that the air becomes too turbulent as it enters the aluminum grill and makes it's way to the radiator. On top of that, as air passes the grill opening there's a lot of random metal obstructions that really don't help promote a smooth air flow. As such, I think the air flow is too turbulent and it slows down too much by the time it reaches the radiator. With that being said, I'm creating some filler panels with this large black plastic. I've seen filler panels on show cars, but this is purely functional rather than form. On the flip side, it might look nice, albeit a bit shiny.

I first attempted to use cardboard to create a template, but spending the better afternoon Tuesday I tossed the template after about five hours when it was just too flimsy to get a good profile. I then got the idea on the way to pick up a burger to use presentation board. I picked up two giant pieces for $.78/ea. at Target. The idea turned out great and is MUCH easier to work with.

The other radiator shroud I'll be repairing and using this black plastic as the natural curve to it lends itself to opening of the fan shroud where it's busted. If it turns out well, then I'll end up swapping the metal one that's posted earlier for this original one, as the way it's setup it will help create a better vacuum since it "seals" itself with the radiator vs. the metal one. Plus, it's lighter which equals more race spec. haha.

 

[signalpuke]

Have you tried water wetter? I've had great results using it instead of antifreeze during hot TX summers.

 

[chevydude]

Have you tried water wetter? I've had great results using it instead of antifreeze during hot TX summers.

No, I haven't tried it. Temps are fine when moving, even just 10 miles an hour. I'm near Austin, you?

The fitment is pretty good and I'm pretty satisfied with how the top piece came out. It's not perfect, but it's pretty dang close. I need to drill four holes, two for the hood bumpers, and two others to bolt the piece down. Fortunately, there are two pre-existing holes in the "body" so it's a bit easier to secure it down.

 

[signalpuke]

Yeah, when I'm in the states I reside in Central TX.