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Discussion Starter #1
So I just bought a supra off a family member that has been sitting a while. Multiple years. 94 Stock twins with 106k

So far I had replaced the battery with a optima red top, syphoned what was left of the old fuel. Didn't find much if any. Then added 1/4 tank of fresh fuel.

So, cranks forever but no start. Checked spark by measuring harness, no pulse. Checked fuel same way found nothing. Switched EFI replay main and #2 still nothing. Bench tested both, test good. Checked ohms of Crank sensor reading 1279ohms then I checked camshaft sensor 1 reading 1282ohms. Camshaft sensor 2 still hasn't been tested for its location and it's just too damn cold outside.

Next I jumped TE1 and E1, pulled code 78 for fuel pump. So at KOEO I'm not getting pressure from pump when jumped B+ and FP. I am getting proper voltage from B+ had to buy a battery charger because it keeps dieing on me. Was in the negatives the past few days.

Anyone have any ideas where to go from here?
 

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Multiple years? Have you thought about changing the fuel filter? So I'm confused is the fuel pump working/not working? You should be able to hear the pump going prior to starting the car.
 

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IF you jump FP and +b and the fuel pump aint working, then that is your problem, you either need a new pump or you need to check wiring. To test the fuel pump you can hook it up to a direct 12v source and see if it runs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I removed the fuel pump cover under the spare tire. Had my girl try and turn it over, couldn't hear or feel anything from the pump. Also felt for pressure near filter, also felt nothing.

To test the pump is it the connector under that cover? I take it just 2 wires?
 

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I removed the fuel pump cover under the spare tire. Had my girl try and turn it over, couldn't hear or feel anything from the pump. Also felt for pressure near filter, also felt nothing.

To test the pump is it the connector under that cover? I take it just 2 wires?
9. INSPECT FUEL PUMP OPERATION
Connect a tester lead from terminal 4 of the connector to the
positive (+) terminal of the battery; connect another tester lead
from terminal 5 of the connector to the negative (-) terminal of
the battery.
NOTICE:
These tests must be performed quickly (within 10 seconds)
to prevent the coil from burning out.
Keep the fuel pump as far away from the battery as
possible.
Always connect or disconnect at the battery.
If operation is not as specified, replace the fuel pump, lead wire
or fuel pump bracket.

That is from the SFI tech page, you can download all the manuals here: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?399297-NEW-1997-98-Complete-Service-Manuals

You may also need to check the Fuel ECU in the drivers rear qtr panel as well, there could be alot of issues causing this. I just bought a new fuel pump and am doing that replacement soon, i think mine was on the way out
 

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From the Toyota TSRM-

Connect a tester lead from terminal 4 of the connector to the
positive (+) terminal of the battery; connect another tester
lead from terminal 5 of the connector to the negative (–) termi-
nal of the battery.
NOTICE:
• These tests must be performed quickly (within 10 se-
conds) to prevent the coil from burning out.

Edit- samurai beat me to it.

OP if you have an android phone you can also download the mkiv TSRM APP here
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mob.brx.app
 

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Pump is probably bad, will happen after sitting for years, pull the pump and bench test it. Also, take a coil out and ground it to the head/valve cover and evaluate for spark. An engine needs air, fuel, spark to run....if you have all three and the motor is timed correctly, in theory it will run.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am using an iPhone and an iPad.

I tried to test the coils again. Once again another connector broke apart in my hand. That's 2 of them now, in between the cams must get pretty hot, all the connectors are so brittle. What's everyone doing to update the harness or connectors?

As far as the pump, I agree it must be bad. I went by Toyota and got quoted 474 for just pump and 603 with pump, filter, and gaskets. Still need removal tool. Am I better off going aftermarket? Is there a better fuel pump. Might go bpu.
 

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Get a flat blad screwdriver....a WIDE one and put a bunch of electrical tape on it. Tap the retainer and it will unscrew....

I would just put a single Walbro 465 in the car, enough pump to make 800rwhp if you desire. Check the For Sale section here too....quite a few good stock pumps for sale if you just want a PnP solution that wont cost an arm and a leg.
 

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I tried to test the coils again. Once again another connector broke apart in my hand. That's 2 of them now, in between the cams must get pretty hot, all the connectors are so brittle. What's everyone doing to update the harness or connectors?
This is a common failure after 20 years. You can get replacement connectors from a Toyota dealer or some other sources. Part # 90980-11246. Buy 6 of them and replace them all. They are easy to depin and repin.
 

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This is a common failure after 20 years. You can get replacement connectors from a Toyota dealer or some other sources. Part # 90980-11246. Buy 6 of them and replace them all. They are easy to depin and repin.
Agreed I replaced mine also, piece of cake. Some dumbass at the Toyota dealership nearby told me that I'd have to replace the whole wiring harness and that those clips are n/a so just take the part number and you can buy new ones. As for the fuel pump I would also do the walbro option. Eventually you will need to replace the stock pump.
 

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I am using an iPhone and an iPad.

I tried to test the coils again. Once again another connector broke apart in my hand. That's 2 of them now, in between the cams must get pretty hot, all the connectors are so brittle. What's everyone doing to update the harness or connectors?

As far as the pump, I agree it must be bad. I went by Toyota and got quoted 474 for just pump and 603 with pump, filter, and gaskets. Still need removal tool. Am I better off going aftermarket? Is there a better fuel pump. Might go bpu.

Yes they get REALLLYYY hot, if they are bad driftmotion sells pigtails.

As for the pump DONT GO THROUGH THE DEALERSHIP!! I just bought a brand new Denso one off amazon for $106, looks like price has gone up though, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5WFO2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01 Rock auto also sells is and it is the GTE Fuel pump that Toyota sels for double the price
 

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About the clips another easy/free solution is that Toyota used that plug on almost all of their coils. I just went to the junk yard and cut like 20 of them off of Camry's and whatever else had them. V-6 Camry's with wasted spark have them for sure and a lot of other Toyotas have them on the coil. Usually you don't get charged for clips at junk yards either.
 

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I just went to the junk yard and cut like 20 of them off...Usually you don't get charged for clips at junk yards either.
My experience differs. If you want to see a junk yard clerk get pissed off, cut some ends off a wiring harness. You just killed a hundred dollar wiring harness.

As far as the clips (connector housings), they are available everywhere if you just do some looking. The Plug Dealer has them here:
https://www.theplugdealer.com/shop/product/12384-toyota-90980-11246-4669
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update: I ended up replacing the fuel pump with a single Walbro, and got the fuel filters, orings, washers from Toyota. I found the oem connectors for the coils online cheap. Finally had a 50 degree day to install.

Car now starts up no problem. Well, 2 issues. My check engine light for the pump is off but I still have the ! light on. When I try and pull for a code I get a check engine light that just keeps on flashing. Also the radio doesn't seem to come on. Antenna goes up, hear I high pitch whine when I try and power it up but the display never comes on. Both fuses at engine and clutch seem to be fine.
 

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For the ! master warning light , check your brake fluid make sure it's filled up, or test the sensor.
and did you drive the car yet? it turns off when you release the parking brake if everything else are in normal condition...

and for your radio, i would pull the dash out and investigate what's been done back there... it can be just a bad head unit if no signs of modified wiring for aftermarket radio.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I drove for a little bit and the light ended up going out. Thanks.

I'll have to take a better look at the radio. No aftermarket radio was ever installed. It's still the original 6 disc cd
 
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