[mk3ownZ]

here is my situation.

the car feels smooth when i am at high rpms.(over 3k)
but when i start letting the gas out a little maybe less then half on way of the throttle , my car starts shaking pretty violently.

i suppect its the timing. Not sure. But if you guys have ever experience this kind of problem and fixed it. Let me kno.

thx
-tony v

 

[Kruso]

Elaborate on the vibration. Is it comming from the engine, tranny, driveshaft, diff, or the tires???

It could be alot of things....but if its engine related, change out your spark plugs and wires, and then work your way up to the timing and the tps alignment.

Your drive shaft might also be either loose from the differential or center bushing might be out for the mount.

Kruso

 

[mk3ownZ]

i'll try to expian more. lets say i am at 1000rpms, i let the clutch go, and i am on the gas, the car starts shaking pretty good, i have to put the clutch back in to stable the car out again. its weird, it might be a boost leak, but, most of the boost leaks i have ever had were when the car just goes out on me,(e.g. ic pops)
it feels like its hitting fuel cut when i am at low throttle and low rpms.
the vibration comes from the tranny, but the tranny is good. i think the engine is shaking which causes the tranny to vibrate.
i have new sparkplugs maybe one of the sparkplug wires are loose. you think that might be causing that?
never have i had any problems w/ my drive trian.
yet, there is another problem, my temp gauge is not working at all. to top that off, my coolant light shows. there is not way i have BGH! haha.
hope the info help Kruso

thx
-tony v

-tony v

 

[Kruso]

What kind of clutch are you using? clutch plate? are you able to distinguish whether or not its something in the firing order or something more primitive like the hardware (ie clutch, driveshaft)?

If the current going through the spark plug wires is leaking, it'll almost seem like the car is hitting fuel cut and the engine kinda jerks back every now and then. This is also called a "systolic murmor" by many.

Kruso

 

[mk3ownZ]

i have a six-puck clutch from sp, oem clutch plate

i check the engine codes and this what is got:
24 Intake air Temp Sensor Signal
Diagnosis
Open or short circuit in intake air temp sensor signal (THA).
Trouble Area
Intake air temp sensor circuit
Intake air temp sensor
ECU

31 Air Flow Meter Signal
Diagnosis
(7M-GE) Open circuit in VC signal or short circuit between VS and E2 when idle contacts are closed.
(7M-GTE) Open or short circuit in air flow meter signal.
Trouble Area
Air flow meter circuit
Air flow meter
ECU

51 Switch Signal
Diagnosis
No "IDL" signal, "NSW" signal or "A/C" signal to ECU, during diagnosis check.
Trouble Area
A/C switch circuit
A/C switch
A/C amplifier
Throttle position sensor circuit
Throttle position sensor
ECU

ok, when the car is at idle, she dont want to rev at all, i push the gas and she dies.

my mods: Lex/afm, afpr, 550cc
i never had any problems w/ my lex nor my air flow meter circuit
i check the throttle sensor(plugs) they are in pretty good.

hope this helps you even more then before Kruso

thx
-tony v

 

[Kruso]

That definitely helps, but your post just went from a car shaking to some serious ecu diagnostics codes. Couple of things....the plate you're using causes pretty harse engagements so im wanting to say thats the reason why your car jersks like that going into a gear. I've driven on that clutch setup and didnt particularly like it. The AFM code.....make sure that there isnt any dirt or oil between the AFM and the harness connector, also might wanna try hooking up the stock one to see if that gets rid of your code. Also keep in mind if you have a SAFC, there might be some problems the way its wired in, so if it applies, double check the wiring. Code 51 is definitely is your TPS being out of wack which will also cause the problem you're having.

When did you notice this, had you done any upgrades or work on the motor that it started doing it?

Kruso

 

[MrOizo]

I can semi relate as this kinda thing happened to me today...

it was actally the MAP sensor that fell off (whats why i said semi)

It was driving fine only once boosting, and up till it was boosting it was crackling and popping and shaking pretty bad...

does the 7MGTE's run some sort of MAP sensor as well as the AFM?

This happened in my 1JZ too..

 

[mk3ownZ]

i have a SAFC II, but not install.
this happen right after i finish fixing my BGH
1.2 HKS mhg:rockon:
arp studs, of course

well, i went to my mechanic, and i guess he adjusted the degree, supposely i told him to set it at 10degrees( thats when it started shakes ) when he adjusted the degree to more, i have no clue what it was, the driveablity was improve. I can rev the car real good. Also the power is there. ( i can totally feel the difference between a 60-1 and the stock ct-26. It still shakes a little tho , i am going to back there so he can adjust it again and hopefully it will be all gone.

i'll check my TPS

thx
-tony v