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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
if my luck wasn't bad enough...... :crying: :sad: :crying:
swapped turbos recently to a bigger T61

so I tried it out, but wasn't able to boost very much past 6psi
like 6.4 - 6.5psi (suspect a boost leak somewhere)
So I pushed it harder, but wasn't expecting to rev past 4,500
it was wet out, and the back wheels wound up spinning a bit (this was while in 3rd gear) that and or my clutch is probbly slipping in the higher rpm band.
anyways I saw my rpms get up to 6,500k
looking at the max value on my zeitronix display, I saw boost was able to get up to 7psi, but now the car runs like sh!t

quickie video from my camera phone
it's knocking real bad, and vibrating
i tried to take a close up of the intake pipes and how much they were shaking, but the motion doesn;t show up on my shitty phone/camera


http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m276/vze27mym/new/?action=view&current=VID00002.flv

I have alot on my mind latley and wasn't thinking straight, not sure what I'll do now, and offhand I don't know what could be wrong.
really too tired to think now

Think I might have blew one of the cylinders? or rods?
I didn't think I could do any damage with my boost controller set to like 9psi
(I have the 2mm headgasket too)
I'll prolly do a compression test tomorrow and see what happens

my life sucks so bad..............
 

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You need to stop being in panic mode and start dianosing the issue. Start by ruling out the bottom end. Do a compression and leak down test. If they are good, the move onto the the ignition, MAF, etc.
 

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Mine routinly runs on 4 cylinders.
My ignition drops out for cyls 1 & 6 ALL of the time, and it happens even more if I try to get into ANY boost.

Mine sounds like an electrical cluster bomb. Let us know what yours turns out to be.
 

· The Great Kruso
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Problem sounds like your AFM is acting up, fuel injector clips having been loosened, or possible bad plugs. I have had a NA ECU go bad on me and sounds similar. Start by checking for codes on the ECU, you can do that by jumping E1 and Te1 terminals in the diagnostics box located inside the engine compartment. Post the findings and we'll go from there.

Kruso
 

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as Kruso said, could be loose injector plugs, I had my car running on 4 cyclinders on the dyno because of them... i have precision injecors with a kind of snap-ring style harness, its a bitch to get to clip in...don't remember what the stock ones were like, but im sure they can come loose to
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
do you have a job? chin up. I once forgot to plug in my MAF and freaked the fuck out. It'll get sorted out, just check the easy stuff first.
not anymore, lost my job 10 weeks ago, and I loose my health insurance in 2 more weeks :(

I do IT support work, so far been on 2 interviews,
one of them was at the same place I got laid off from, but I heard later on it was a "fake" job interview, cause when they want to bring in someone thats not a US citizen and need to sponsor them with a H4 (or whatever the form number is)
They have to prove they were not able to find any citizen that could do that job,
so they interview a bunch of people and submit their names with the application to the government saying, look we interviewed 20 so people and none of them can do it, so we have a right to bring in so n so from overseas

fuck you morgan stanley :madf:


and on the other one, they wanted someone that could do what I used to do + 20 other things :sad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You need to stop being in panic mode and start dianosing the issue. Start by ruling out the bottom end. Do a compression and leak down test. If they are good, the move onto the the ignition, MAF, etc.
yeah I'll do the compression test tomorrow, was busy at church today,
church has been the only thing keeping me sane

I've tried anti-depressants to take the edge off, but when your on it, your mind isn't very sharp.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Problem sounds like your AFM is acting up, fuel injector clips having been loosened, or possible bad plugs. I have had a NA ECU go bad on me and sounds similar. Start by checking for codes on the ECU, you can do that by jumping E1 and Te1 terminals in the diagnostics box located inside the engine compartment. Post the findings and we'll go from there.

Kruso
thanks for the suggestion
but I don't have a MAF
I have a AEM
I did check the aem right after it happened and the voltages going to the injectors all looked good, so the clips are OK (tough I'm not 100% sure if that guarantees one might not be locked up)
bad part about the AEM is that it doesn't throw cel, I'll need to go over everything manually.
unfortunately I did not have logging turned on at the time, tough there is a 512kb (it's not much data) memory chip inside that should do something called "internal logging"
I'll need to see it I have that function activated,
if so it might be able to shed some light on things...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mine routinly runs on 4 cylinders.
My ignition drops out for cyls 1 & 6 ALL of the time, and it happens even more if I try to get into ANY boost.

Mine sounds like an electrical cluster bomb. Let us know what yours turns out to be.
wow thats bad.
I thought your car was running in pretty good shape
not sure if you can hear in the video, but if you crank up your speakers, you can hear the bad knocking sound (it's recorded better at the start of the video)

does yours sound like that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I saw this online
http://www.aa1car.com/library/engine_noise.htm

pretty concerned after readin this section:
"RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND

Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline
dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced -- which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense."

:barf: :crying:
 

· The Great Kruso
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thanks for the suggestion
but I don't have a MAF
I have a AEM
I did check the aem right after it happened and the voltages going to the injectors all looked good, so the clips are OK (tough I'm not 100% sure if that guarantees one might not be locked up)
bad part about the AEM is that it doesn't throw cel, I'll need to go over everything manually.
unfortunately I did not have logging turned on at the time, tough there is a 512kb (it's not much data) memory chip inside that should do something called "internal logging"
I'll need to see it I have that function activated,
if so it might be able to shed some light on things...
You never had a MAF, NA's only come with AFMs. Your initial post did not say anything AEM, which I believe where your problem is coming from. This is more an AEM issue then anything else.

Kruso
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You never had a MAF, NA's only come with AFMs. Your initial post did not say anything AEM, which I believe where your problem is coming from. This is more an AEM issue then anything else.

Kruso
Well I went AEM some time ago, and the car was running fine for a while until last night, so I'm doubting the aem went bad.

based on what I saw n heard last night
I'm guessing either the valves or worse case scenario the rod and/or bearings
I'm hoping a bad spark plug, but it shakes too much to be running on 5 cylinders,
and 2 bad plugs is highly unlikely
(the distributor housing didn't look cracked so that's ok, if it was cracked it would explain more then 1 plug not firing)
looking over the factory service manual, the only other thing would be low oil pressure. I'll double check that tough.

I have a compression test kit, still need to get my hands on a leakdown tester.
wonder if autozone has one in their tool loan program
 

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Well I went AEM some time ago, and the car was running fine for a while until last night, so I'm doubting the aem went bad.

based on what I saw n heard last night
I'm guessing either the valves or worse case scenario the rod and/or bearings
I'm hoping a bad spark plug, but it shakes too much to be running on 5 cylinders,
and 2 bad plugs is highly unlikely
(the distributor housing didn't look cracked so that's ok, if it was cracked it would explain more then 1 plug not firing)
looking over the factory service manual, the only other thing would be low oil pressure. I'll double check that tough.

I have a compression test kit, still need to get my hands on a leakdown tester.
wonder if autozone has one in their tool loan program
doubful on the rod bearing being bad...thats usually something that shows some prewarning signs before you start sseeing some hurtful reactions...telltale sign is a steady knock that changes in speed with the engine rpm, which normally happens before anykind of cyclinder failure...a spun bearing usually happens when the engine gets overrevved, how hard do you drive?

I have a dodge intrepid with a bad rod bearing, you can still hop in and drive it...you would think its running great if u ignored the loud knocking it has...but it just sits around cause i kno it will soon fail on me if i continue to drive it

try some cheap possible solutions before jumping into the expensive ones like engine rebuild...new spark plugs, injector cleaner and such...if you kno which cylinders are dead switch their fuel injectors with ones that are definately working to test if its a bad or clogged injector...same thing can be done for the spark plugs if you dont get new ones altogether
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
hey guys just an update
thanks to all that replied
turns out it was a single bad spark plug, I swapped in a new set and all was well, it's weird, but the single spark plug did not fire.... the tip was still there but when I tested it while hooked up to a spare coil and a spare battery I couldn't get spark out of it like the other ones...
so the car was running on 5 cylinders, tough the shaking was bad enough to make me think only 4 was running.... btw: there were NGK iridiums, I hear the conductive core is actually a very thin wire (haven;t confirmed that) maybe it has a break in it? I dunno... anyways thank god that was it,
I have a set of ngk regulars in there now, I was wondering if it might be that fact I have a XS Engineering power pack 2 (same as the B&M unit) and run 18volts to the coil, but I've been through other sets of plugs at 18v and never had a problem before.


suprant0010, for your bad dodge, I read adding STP into the oil would make the knock go away. Think it's cause it make the oil more viscous, so it helps coat the bearing better and masks the problem. maybe give it a try to prolong the failure
 

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hey guys just an update
thanks to all that replied
turns out it was a single bad spark plug, I swapped in a new set and all was well, it's weird, but the single spark plug did not fire.... the tip was still there but when I tested it while hooked up to a spare coil and a spare battery I couldn't get spark out of it like the other ones...
so the car was running on 5 cylinders, tough the shaking was bad enough to make me think only 4 was running.... btw: there were NGK iridiums, I hear the conductive core is actually a very thin wire (haven;t confirmed that) maybe it has a break in it? I dunno... anyways thank god that was it,
I have a set of ngk regulars in there now, I was wondering if it might be that fact I have a XS Engineering power pack 2 (same as the B&M unit) and run 18volts to the coil, but I've been through other sets of plugs at 18v and never had a problem before.


suprant0010, for your bad dodge, I read adding STP into the oil would make the knock go away. Think it's cause it make the oil more viscous, so it helps coat the bearing better and masks the problem. maybe give it a try to prolong the failure
or maybe just hide it so i can get that pos sold...haha, not familiar with stp what is it, id like to give it try
 
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