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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is a heads-up for anyone who wants to remove the stock GTE oil filter/cooler system and upgrade to a remotely located filter and aftermarket oil cooler. Also included is info for Anyone who wants to get the most out of their stock fuel system w/ injector and pump upgrades. this also allows the block-off of the stock CSI when installing an FFI. this goes above and beyond removing the FPD and hardline between it and the banjo union on the motor mount. reducing the FPD/banjo restriction is useless if there is still another banjo restriction and 5.65mm ID Inverted flare attached to the stock hardline.

Im converting my motor to a GE oil filter setup and using an Summit racing oil filter relocation kit. I have the spin-on adaptor attached to the GE oil filter stud on the block. The kit comes w/ 3/8" NPT hose barbs to plumb everything together. the Nipple size is equivalant to a -8 hose. ill be mounting my oil filter behind my passenger fog light. from there, the oil will run thru an FC3S oil cooler. For anyone interested in using the FC3S oil cooler (Which i recommend due to an integrated thermal bypass valve), you should convert the inlet and outlet to straight fitting in order to use hose ends rather than the stock banjo fittings that are stock on the RX7. the fittings required are two 16mm x 1.50 to -8AN male. Then connect the -8AN barbed hose end fittings. This will allow you to clamp the 1/2" (-8AN) hose and plumb it in-line with your Summit-racing oil filter relocation kit. i got mine from Summit racing. the Oil then goes back to the block, not the oil pan. this leaves the oil pan return nipple vacant and it must be plugged. to do this correctly, you must use a 12mm x 1.25 pitch plug. I found out my local Advance Auto/Discount auto has them in the Oil drain plug section. its a MotorMite product, the same people who make aftermarket Pilot bearings for our cars.

(From the block, to the filter, to the cooler and back to the block)
Summit Single element Filter relocation kit PN: SUM-G4985
Earl's 18mm x 1.50 metric adaptor Summit Racing PN:
Aeroquip brand 90* -8AN to hose barb Summit PN: AER-FBM1443
Aeroquip brand straight -8AN to hose barb Summit PN: AER-FCE1513
MotorMite brand plug 12mm x 1.25 PN: 65263 (Dorman PN: 091-038)

The FFI im using has no provisions for the CSI but im retaining the stock fuel rail in the stock location. this means i have to plug up the CSI port on the fuel rail. You must use a 12mm x 1.25 thread pitch plug, same as the one that blocks the stock oil cooler return. Im also changing my stock fuel lines to all -6 hose; from the stock hardline 8mm inverted flare, to the Rail, to an Aeromotive AFPR, then to the stock return hardline. Unfortunately, i cant find a Female 8mm inverted flare to -6AN hose adaptor. this is going to require some custom modification on my part. Im going to have to remove the stock soft line between the stock hardline and the banjo union that is mounted to the driver's motormount. i have to cut the Female 8mm inverted flare fitting off, then have it drilled/bored out to about 11/32". 11/32" is the same ID of the -6 AN hose, not the fitting. the -6AN fittings are a genuine 3/8" ID. The hose is supposed to be a hair smaller so it fits snugly onto the Hose ends. Anyways, once the 8mm Inverted flare fitting is removed and bored, it will then be brazed to a modified -6AN male fitting. I have to liberate the -6AN male side from the other half of the adaptor. a Dremel tools is good for this. this will allow me to use a -6AN hose all the way to the stock fuel rail. this allows me to remove the stock banjo bolt union and the fuel pulsation damper. i can also remove the stock fuel pressure regulator in favor of a accurate, better-flowing, adjustable unit. after converting the metric to -6an on the return side, it just takes a short hose to connect the AFPR. one port of the AFPR can be plugged for now untill I install a 2nd fuel line. the bottom port takes a -6an to -6an union to allow the connection of the 45* hose end. from there, the other end of the -6an hose needs no connector. Ill just slide it over the stock return line and clamp it. I have the parts that ill be using, in order from stock hard line, going to the fuel rail, from the fuel rail to the AFPR, then to the stock return line.

(From stock hard line 8mm Inverted flare)
Summit brand -6AN to 3/8" NPT fitting PN: SUM-220648
Summit brand -6AN reusable swivel straight hose end PN: SUM-220690
Summit brand -6AN braided hose 10' length PN: SUM-230610
Summit Brand -6AN 90* hose end PN: SUM-220687
(Fittings for stock fuel rail)
Russel brand 14mm x 1.50 to -6 male summit PN: RUS-670520
MotorMite brand 12mm x 1.25 plug PN @ Advance/Discount auto: 65263 (Dorman PN: 091-038)
Earl's Brand -6AN to 12mm x 1.25 adaptor Summit PN: EAR-991945ERL
(to Aeromotive A1000 EFI regulator)
Summit Brand -6AN 90* hose end PN: SUM-220687
Use Summit brand -6AN braided hose 10' length PN: SUM-230610 from above
Summit Brand -6AN 90* hose end PN: SUM-220687
(On Aeromotive A1000 EFI regulator w/ -6 ports)
Summit brand -6AN to -6AN male O-ring seal PN: SUM-220632
Summit brand -6AN to -6AN male O-ring seal PN: SUM-220632
Earl's Brand -6AN plug for 2nd port Summit PN: EAR-581406ERL
(To Stock fuel return line)
Summit brand -6AN 45* hose end PN: SUM-220686
Use Summit brand -6AN braided hose 10' length PN: SUM-230610 from above

I only posted all the Summit parts because they have the widest variety of fittings and i prefer to do one-stop shopping. i hate placing 7 different orders to get all the parts i need... plus the pricing is fair and they have FREE shipping. Dont get me wrong, i love to support the community... but let's Face it, im not running a charity. Maybe, someday, UNICEF will get into the car business, but untill then, im gonna have to place my hard-to-fill orders with Summit.

hth
Chris

EDIT; i got my AN fittings and adaptors in from Summit racing. i also went to my local hydraulic hose shop to have the rest of my fuel lines and custom fittings made.

before i left today, i cut the Inverted flare female fitting off the soft line where it connects to the hard line near the clutch slave cyl hose. pull back the plastic rock sheild and youll see it back there. i cut the fitting off and drilled out the passage to about 5/16" ID, one size smaller than -6AN but still bigger than what it WAS. this will help free up some fuel flow. i shaved down the other end flat and bought a -6AN male fitting from my shop. he then brazed my stock inverted flare female fitting to the new -6AN steel nipple. FYI, anodized aluminum fittings cannot be brazed to steel. so now i have an adaptor fitting to run from my stock inverted flare tubing to new -6AN hoses. you can see the custom adaptor here.

from there, i had a 32" long -6AN feed hose made. its using steel-braid reinforced fuel injection hose, nothing special. on the end where it meets my custom adaptor, it is a straight -6AN 37* flare fitting. theres 32" of tubing, then to a 90* -6AN hose end. they are crimped fittings, not reusable hose ends. i also had the return line made. similar to the feed, except it uses two 90* -6AN hose ends. they are crimped on 90* differential planes... meaning, if one hose end is seated vertically, the other hose end will naturally sit horizontally. there is 20" of tubing between these hose ends. seen here.


I have my metric to -6AN adaptors mounted in the fuel rail already. the CSI port is plugged off with the 12mm x 1.25 oil pan drain plug. the stock rail is all ready for the new fuel lines.


i routed the feed line up thru the gap in the 4 and 5 cyl intake runners on the LIM, similar to the stock feed line. i did this because there are no sharp edges that would abrade the hose. if i put it thru the gap in between 4 and 5 runners on the UIM, it would abrade on the bolt head. here is how the fuel lines sit now.


on the return line, i routed it thru the gap between 3 and 4 UIM runners to the AFPR that is bolted to the fender well near the brake master. after removing my cruise ctrl assy, there is an unused bolt hole. i simply routed the return line from the rail under the master cyl. it seems to fit pretty nicely. i have a push-lock -6AN on the return port of the AFPR to facilitate in the installation of the low pressure return line to the stock hard line w/ hose clamps. its a little hard to see since its practically directly under the master cyl. but itll keep things relatively tidy and condensed. all i need is the -8AN plug for the other port on the AFPR and to run the return hose to the stock hardline and the fuel system is done.
 

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Digital Dreamer
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898 Posts
Ahahah Unicef. Excellent write-up and excellent choice in parts. It's always nice to do one stop shopping and sicne the shipping is free why the hell no eh? New post you need to show pics of these things you bought and their respective installs.
eric
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
will do bro. my order wont come in till thurday though. should ship out Monday morning, 3day ground UPS from Ohio.

itll take some time to get some pics up... im waist deep in a 1jz swap on a customer car, doing a T88H and shit on my car as well as putting an interior in another car to sell it this thursday.. i got a lot on my plate this week.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i added pics and more details for the fuel line and AFPR install from the stock hardline FORWARD.
 

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Hey Chris,
Any pics of that oil cooler installed? The RX7 cooler (which I'm a big fan of too) is pretty huge and am looking for ideas or suggestions how to, or where to fit it.
Thanks,
Jason
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yeah, i ran out of offset angle stock. i need to run to home depot and pick up some more. ive got one of my cooler brackets finished, but have to make the other one. im mounting it horizontally right behind the front lip and infront of the bottom 1jz FMIC tank. it fits perfectly on mysetup. ill probably have to adjust the location when i get my MKIV fmic. this will work for now. im making everything w/ simple hand tools and power tools (Sawzall and power drill) im using leftover 10mm nuts and bolts to assemble everything. ill fab up a scoop to pull air from below the front lip and duct it upwards thru the oil cooler and then thru the FMIC.
 

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Is there a reason you didnt go twin feed and used the stock CSI port as a return? How much hp will a 6AN and 8mm stock hardline support? What fuel pump are you running?
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
hey mate... i thought about going that route, but i decided against it. this is just an interim setup to help me hold 500rwhp.

i decided against the twin feed on the stock rail w/ CSI return port because the CSI is not in the center. i felt thered be an imbalance in fuel pressure/volume snce its right between the #4 and #5 injectors. techncially, i could see the CSI as a return port being a better choice than one in-one out... but ill be going all out later when i do my T88 and such.

ill just be running a single Walbro w/ custom wiring for this short-term setup. Ill either add a second walbro, or run a pair of A1000's ultimately. i cant seem to find a Single pump that will support 1100-1200bhp in a forced induction format. ive seen walbros run out at 1000rwhp and sooner. i wont bother with Twin turbo pumps since they are less suited for high fuel pressure than a Walbro GSS341. but, if i run a pair of A1000's, ill have alot of headroom and be able to handle high fuel pressures... at the expense of Auditory comfort ;)

my friend malloynx is doing well over 500rwhp on stock hardline and just FPD and AFPR. my fuel system is far more involved than his is, and ive eliminated several more restrictions. so i dont see any reason why i shouldnt be able to near the 600rwhp mark w/ the stock 8mm hardline uprating into the -6 at the end of the stock hardline.
 

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So this would be a "kit" that you have to make yourself once ordering parts. If I wanted I could go to williams and have them make me lines etc and just buy the Relocation kit from either driftmotion or summit. So I know I could piece together parts I just wasn't sure if there was a company that made a kit, I was also trying to see if anybody had any luck with the ebay relocation kits.

Thanks for the thread tho flubyu, I'll probably end up using that set up, I appreciate it.
 

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So this would be a "kit" that you have to make yourself once ordering parts. If I wanted I could go to williams and have them make me lines etc and just buy the Relocation kit from either driftmotion or summit. So I know I could piece together parts I just wasn't sure if there was a company that made a kit, I was also trying to see if anybody had any luck with the ebay relocation kits.

Thanks for the thread tho flubyu, I'll probably end up using that set up, I appreciate it.

skip the ebay reloaction kit and use transdapt or permacool at the very minimum over ebay relocations.
 

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Buddy thought I had a NA
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2,476 Posts
remember to die grind the summet oil adaptor that alot of meat can be removed from the oil filter drain hole aka the center one on the filter to over make it better


you setup is very much like mine but I run 2 oil filter's one low pass other is high pass then I run an oil accumulator



ps they have bigger pumps then the a1000

I plan to get the ELIMINATOR to replace my borrowed a1000 that is in my car if the prices are to far apart

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/fuel-pumps/11104-eliminator-fuel-pump/



oh and it is good idea to run one of these as well

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-p...nics/16306-billet-fuel-pump-speed-controller/
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The summit brand kit had everything I needed. All I had to bring was the ge filter stud. As for an oil cooler, just pick anything out and plumb it inline with your filter kit. I paid $43 for my full kit from summit.

Thanks for the heads up Ryan. I'm using a diesel lift pump for my next setup. 150gph at 90psi
 
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