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https://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/item.php?category=engine&subcat=Oil Pans (Sumps) and Baffle Plates&brand=TOMEI&series=&name=Oil+Pan+Baffle+Plate&carcode=JZA80A&fromlink=2

^^

This looks to be for a Supra application. That should be rear sump, unless they've made front sump supras Idk about lol



^^

That looks like the kit I have as well. We'll see how well it works.

So far so good according to the logs. This is with an unmodified stock oil pump. I have a new modified oil pump to go on with my next set of upgrades as well as an accusump for good measure.


i would think the amount of ethanol in the oil would be negligible when talking about breaking down the rubber flap.
This is certainly true in my case according to my recent oil analysis. Strong smell of E85 taking the sample but no Ethanol saturation in the oil at all. Stock motor, 142000k's, power 550hp on E85, average bowser ethanol content being 81, oil used is Motul 300V 5w40.
 

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So far so good according to the logs. This is with an unmodified stock oil pump. I have a new modified oil pump to go on with my next set of upgrades as well as an accusump for good measure.




This is certainly true in my case according to my recent oil analysis. Strong smell of E85 taking the sample but no Ethanol saturation in the oil at all. Stock motor, 142000k's, power 550hp on E85, average bowser ethanol content being 81, oil used is Motul 300V 5w40.
Thanks for that. Have you logged anything with hard cornering?
 

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So far so good according to the logs. This is with an unmodified stock oil pump. I have a new modified oil pump to go on with my next set of upgrades as well as an accusump for good measure.




This is certainly true in my case according to my recent oil analysis. Strong smell of E85 taking the sample but no Ethanol saturation in the oil at all. Stock motor, 142000k's, power 550hp on E85, average bowser ethanol content being 81, oil used is Motul 300V 5w40.
:bigok:
 

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What's the advantage of a metal trap door on one side and rubber flaps on the other sides? I admit my ignorance in this area for sure.

My previous comments regarding concerns aren't with immediate use of a rubber of unknown composition. My concerns are with prolonged use in an environment constantly being subjected to ethanol, with a rubber flap of unknown composition. As we all know: not all CPE hose is the same. CPE of early 2000 is not the same rubber as 2017 or even 2018. Hose companies have recently become more aggressive with their reformulation of their CPE hoses to be suitable for ethanol for those of us not wanting full blown PTFE hose. My question is in regards to that and if anyone had long term experience with it.

Basically: I just want a simple solution for reducing these oil pressure drops when I hit a big corner or step on the BBK. I have datalogged these drops in right hand corners when carving (had to reduce engine cut out failsafe trigger points) and also after a big pull and getting onto the brakes heavy.

I'd like to get this car going to be able to compete in the Optima Search for the Ultimate Street Car Challenge. Some kind of system to reduce this just a bit would be helpful. Although I suppose taking my pan from the race Supra to the fabricator would do it as well lol I just want something simple and effective. The race car basically has sea walls placed with drainage points across the bottom of them. I honestly don't get how it works lol but it doesn't have any oil pressure issues during the heavy corners or during braking with the slicks at optimal temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
If you create a box around the pickup without any provision for oil passage in/out of the box, you could potentially start the pickup.

The oil has to get in the baffle to feed the pickup, but it should need to get out of the baffle. These traps are usually 1-way, put potential points of failure since they are moving parts.

I get FUEL starvation at 110mph long right-hander on NJMP Lightning roadcoarse, full throttle (separate topic!). I also get OIL starvation on heavy braking into T1,and a the carousel entry at Thunderbolt. I can see the oil pressure dip below 10psi for about 1 second during the low-speed tight turns (or heavy braking). I've been lucky that it's low load situations (decel or off throttle), and assuming that there is enough oil in the galleys and between bearing surfaces that the engine/turbo can sustain it briefly.

By creating a box around the pickup, perhaps with no flaps but a small entry/exit hole, that could limit the speed at which the oil exist the baffle. That's really where the $ and R&D would need to go.

I just don't trust reviews of systems out there from anyone; really needs to be from those who push these engines at the limits in a professional environment. Installing a sump baffle and stating "well, now my oil pressure doesn't drop when I hit the brakes hard on the highway that one time I tried it", isn't useful...
 

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Who sells them? What are the negatives of using it? Every system has it's pluses and minuses. I'm curious what is involved in installing it and us
 

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Who sells them? What is the negatives of using it? Every system has it's pluses and minuses. I'm curious what is involved in installing it and using it.
 

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Who sells them? What is the negatives of using it? Every system has it's pluses and minuses. I'm curious what is involved in installing it and using it.
what a baffle or accusump?
 

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Accusump
 

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Only Negative to an accusump is additional cost and complexity in your oiling system, well and finding room. It should ideally be in the engine bay where it is kept warm. An accusump is just a pressure cylinder that stores a few quarts of oil, it is pressurized by the oil system and typically has an electronic solenoid valve controlling flow in/out. In the event your standalone reads oil pressure below a predefined point it triggers the valve releasing a few quarts of pressurized oil until pressure returns.

Another added benefit is you can wire it to trigger at key on or cranking and supply instant oil pressure on cold starts.

As for concerns with a baffle causing the pickup to run dry. Regardless of it it has trap doors or not it should be designed to work with the windage tray and top of the oil baffles/oil catch tray to direct the oil returning to the pan all into the confines of the the baffle. If this is occurring the baffle will be getting filled first and overflowing to the rest of the pan sump and should never come close to running dry.

This is one place that I like the design of the 7M pan, if you add a one or two kickouts to bump up capacity, along with a baffle, all the oil caught on the factory catch tray flows right into the sump and baffle.

IMG_7537_d26417b9-e996-41b2-943b-77c001544892_grande.JPG
 

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received_253157245547427.jpeg
received_338228276744681.jpeg

Here is my pan setup on the race car. I have no idea what windage tray trickery is going on. I'll ask Ivan.
 

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Windage only? It keeps the oil from sloshing. I thought windage is only for stopping the crankshaft from slinging oil into the pan.

This modification keeps the oil from sloshing and getting too high on one side and forces it low in the pan, as opposed to vertical walls, they're sloped sea walls that have holes for air flow and holds the oil in place --- that's what is explained to me by Ivan.

All I know is that it holds very very good oil pressure, no dips of any kind during braking or corners etc. There are zero fluctuations. I don't know if this is something kind of hybrid setup. All I know is the guy who made it does this stuff for a living.

I literally have no idea what I'm talking about when it comes to baffling and windage stuff. I'll send Ivan the link, see if he responds.
 

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Windage only? It keeps the oil from sloshing. I thought windage is only for stopping the crankshaft from slinging oil into the pan.

This modification keeps the oil from sloshing and getting too high on one side and forces it low in the pan, as opposed to vertical walls, they're sloped sea walls that have holes for air flow and holds the oil in place
True baffles are a grid of vertical walls, that form lots of smaller rectangular "pans" so that oil cannot all slosh to one side. The vertical walls don't seal at the bottom of the pan, so oil can pass below them. So if you picture the oil in a non-baffled pan during a sustained hard corner, from the front of the car you would see a right triangle of oil sloshed to one side. But with a baffled pan, you get several smaller triangles, none of which is as tall or sloshed as much.

The horizontal windage panels you have will keep the oil from sloshing up as high as it would without them, but the oil is still smushed over to one side during hard cornering.
 

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Makes sense. Either way - I can't data log this because it has individual gauges. But oil pressure is really strong and doesn't move unless it's because of revs. I'm really happy with it.

Ultimately I'm thinking I'll get a regular baffle box for the black car. It seems like a mostly bolt in item and that I'd be able to avoid welding or losing my oil level sensor.

It looks like both the Tomei and the Goleby should work fine. But being in the USA I'm thinking of whatever is available to use that.

What are your thoughts?
 

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I'm looking forward to seeing if he has any issues now that it's in there. I wonder if it allows the factory level sensor to be used. I definitely want to use the level sensor, no matter what. My race car doesn't have it and I wish I had a means of knowing the level gets low when going straight. In corners I could see it being triggered but on straights would be nice to know if I'm losing oil.
 

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I'm looking forward to seeing if he has any issues now that it's in there. I wonder if it allows the factory level sensor to be used. I definitely want to use the level sensor, no matter what. My race car doesn't have it and I wish I had a means of knowing the level gets low when going straight. In corners I could see it being triggered but on straights would be nice to know if I'm losing oil.
Bexo Motors sportsman version of the baffle box retains the factory oil level sensor, the racer version does not. Both versions fit their windage tray.
 
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