Supra Forums banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
707 Posts
Chris, use the same weight oil 10w30. Just make sure it is synthetic like Mobil 1. Also use a turbo timer or make sure you let the car run for a minute of two after you make a hard pull so the heat from the turbo does not let the oil coke in the turbo bearings.
 

·
EchoDeDupra
Joined
·
4,122 Posts
random question... but don't they sell additives that clear oil sludge?... could that be added along with the oil to prevent coking even further?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
random question... but don't they sell additives that clear oil sludge?... could that be added along with the oil to prevent coking even further?
They sell additives that CLAIM to do just about everything, but history tends to reveal that the claims are bogus. Here's a list of a bunch of the well-known additives companies whom have been slapped with suits by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) for false advertising -- bogus claims. Take a look at some of these lawsuit summaries -- interesting reading. :)

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.shtm

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/05/duralub2.shtm

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/07/slick.shtm

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/04/motorup5.shtm

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/09/prolong.shtm

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/10/valve.shtm

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1995/12/stp.shtm

From what I've seen, one of the only legitimate product lines is the X-1R line, which has been legitimately tested and does not make bogus claims (and carries a NASA certification for some products).

I use straight 10w30 Mobil 1. I'd be less likely to use an additive in the Supra than in any other vehicle I owned, but IF I were going to try something, It'd be X-1R Engine Treatment.
 

·
Working OT
Joined
·
4,193 Posts
Chris, use the same weight oil 10w30. Just make sure it is synthetic like Mobil 1. Also use a turbo timer or make sure you let the car run for a minute of two after you make a hard pull so the heat from the turbo does not let the oil coke in the turbo bearings.
Why synthetic?
 

·
EchoDeDupra
Joined
·
4,122 Posts
What about Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
What about Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer?
IMO, Lucas is the biggest bunch of snake oil of them all in some ways. However, they are marketing and PR geniuses -- you have to give them that. They've used the grass roots PR approach and built an empire to the point that they are a major sponsor of numerous racing events, advertising, etc. I haven't really paid much attention to their claims, but from what I've noticed on bottles I've seen in the stores they tend to stop short of making specific claims that they can be pinned down on. They also use "gee whiz" displays like the little set of crank-driven plastic gears with the oil bath that sits on auto parts sales counters. People who don't know any better turn the crank, see the stringy effect of the oil climbing the gears, and assume it's a good thing, when it's really not. (In case you haven't seen it, you turn the crank and the oil "cliimbs" up the gearset due to the stringyness imparted by the oil additive.) People often don't stop to question whether some of these things are actually GOOD or not -- they are just wowed by what they see and blindly assume that it's good as claimed.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,644 Posts
The whole hoorah about oil sludge is mostly from some specific engines that have PCV and oiling issues to begin with that create an 'oil sludge' problem, such as the 2.7L V6 found in a lot of Chrysler vehicles like the Intrepid & Sebring - that one was having 'sludge' issues that were causing oil starvation to rod & main bearings at as little as 6000 miles.
Now, half of the battle is the oil itself - use cheap ass crap oil and never ever change it, you'll run into problems. If you are in a pinch and need to substitute for a preferred brand, check the API certification and grade on the back of the bottle, to make sure its of the same grade as the preferred brand of your choice.
Short of the design issues that may or may not be present, the rest of the battle is how the engine is maintained. If you're in stop and go traffic all day long and you never change the oil and run crappy oil, you'll be much more likely to see those sorts of issues. On most engines, these issues would be things like sticking hydraulic lifters, "varnishing" of camshafts and other cylinder head parts, etc. Sludging only really occurs when there's some pocket in the engine design itself that doesnt get enough crankcase breathing or theres some nook or cranny where gunk can build up. In my limited experience, even the ugliest JDM 7M's, 1JZs, and 2JZ's I've seen didn't have anything worse than a dark varnished look to the camshafts and cylinder head, no other signs of gunk or buildup could be found anywhere in the oiling system. Thus, I believe in the case of a 2JZ that you shouldn't worry about engine 'sludge' - just choose a high quality synthetic and change it regularly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
X-1R was created by Dr. Leonard Marra and he happened to be a friend of NASA's head of security for base vehicles and the giant crawlers. Dr. Marra gave his NASA friend a few samples of his product and struck an endorsement deal a few months later after revealing the results.

Lucas Oil stabilizer will not do your engine any good, nor will it do it any harm either. Depending on the dosage, it may froth your oil and hinder the basestock and additives from doing what it is designed to do, for example, slowing the reaction time of the VII (viscosity index improver) or polymer and impeding on the effectiveness of the cold temp depressants. Some real synthetic (PAO and esters) have no VII or polymer and/or cold temp depressants because the inherent basestock naturally adjust to the changing temperature. Lucas---again, depending on the dosage---will not only affect the viscosity of the synthetic oil, but will also affect the duration it takes the oil to reach a specified thickness and thinness because of the additive clash. I don't have sufficient understanding of how their SYNTHETIC oil stabilizer will behave with your oil, so I'll refrain from making any more comment.

Supradedupra: If you need to clean your engine safely without resorting to solvent engine flush, then I would recommend Auto-RX. It is comprised of ester and it safely cleans and protects your engine while you drive the car. It has no detrimental effect on your oil. If you're worried about cleaniness, why not consider an ester-based oil like Redline, some Motul, some Silkolene, and some Elf. Ester-based oil has slightly better cleaning ability than PAO. They are polar, so by nature they should cling onto metal and alloy better than group I, II, III, and PAO oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
[My Cliffs Notes:]
....Lucas Oil stabilizer will not do your engine any ...harm....

Depending on the dosage, it may:
... froth your oil....
... hinder the basestock and additives from doing what it is designed to do...
... for example, slowing the reaction time of the VII (viscosity index improver) or polymer and
..... impeding on the effectiveness of the cold temp depressants....
.... depending on the dosage---will not only affect the viscosity of the synthetic oil, but will also affect the duration it takes the oil to reach a specified thickness and thinness...
LOL You're more conservative than me -- I'd draw the conclusion that the changes that the additive imparts to the engine oil and its function (as itemized above) are harmful to the engine. To say the least, I would not pay money to Lucas to cause those things to happen in my engine. :)
 

·
BLACKOUT
Joined
·
1,864 Posts
X-1R was created by Dr. Leonard Marra and he happened to be a friend of NASA's head of security for base vehicles and the giant crawlers. Dr. Marra gave his NASA friend a few samples of his product and struck an endorsement deal a few months later after revealing the results.

Lucas Oil stabilizer will not do your engine any good, nor will it do it any harm either. Depending on the dosage, it may froth your oil and hinder the basestock and additives from doing what it is designed to do, for example, slowing the reaction time of the VII (viscosity index improver) or polymer and impeding on the effectiveness of the cold temp depressants. Some real synthetic (PAO and esters) have no VII or polymer and/or cold temp depressants because the inherent basestock naturally adjust to the changing temperature. Lucas---again, depending on the dosage---will not only affect the viscosity of the synthetic oil, but will also affect the duration it takes the oil to reach a specified thickness and thinness because of the additive clash. I don't have sufficient understanding of how their SYNTHETIC oil stabilizer will behave with your oil, so I'll refrain from making any more comment.

Supradedupra: If you need to clean your engine safely without resorting to solvent engine flush, then I would recommend Auto-RX. It is comprised of ester and it safely cleans and protects your engine while you drive the car. It has no detrimental effect on your oil. If you're worried about cleaniness, why not consider an ester-based oil like Redline, some Motul, some Silkolene, and some Elf. Ester-based oil has slightly better cleaning ability than PAO. They are polar, so by nature they should cling onto metal and alloy better than group I, II, III, and PAO oil.
hows that for a first post !!!! you hit the nail right on the head ....although , i worked in an oil change / mechanic shop and have seen lucas work on cars that burn oil or have noisy lifters ....i only recomended it if there was an obvious problem with the car because giving a 10 dollar bottle a try before a new motor is worth it for most people ....i have seen before and after results with lucas as well as ongoing results from repeat customers ....any other additive that i have seen just plain sucks and as stated , changes the formula of the oil and prevents it from doing its job because it is made up of chemicals usualy
 

·
Exclusive 1000+ Post Club
Joined
·
3,488 Posts
+33398349834

I think about 99% of supras run M1 10w30.
Ask SP what oil they put in their Supras. Conventional 10W 30.

Champion Toyota uses Royal Purple 5W 30.

A lot of guys use conventional/synthetic 10W 40.

15W 50 is also quite common.
 

·
keep livin man, L I V I N
Joined
·
818 Posts
Amsoil 10w 30
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top