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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, finally got my car, heres whats wrong with it so far. The accelerator is all fucked up, you pretty much gotta put it to the floor to get it to go anywhere. I got new plugs and wires today, went to put the in, 1 and 2 were fine... then at 3 I notice alittle oil on the threads, and then 4-6, oil is damn everywhere, all over the wire, on my wrench soaking the plugs. I'm thinkin my piston rings on the back cylinders are shot. So 5 I reused a old plug not covered in oil and six i left alone, but i changed all the wires. Now when i cranked the car its idling higher then last time (we had a vacume hose break off from somewhere but im pretty sure it got put back in the right spot), idling like the notch after 1 grand, and all kinda of smoke came out when i first cranked it, whiteish though, i think its still just getting used to running again after sitting for 6 months. Tomorrow I will change the oil and put in some restore to see if that dont help. But what do you guys think the problem could be. on the valve cover around the plug wires I noticed alot of old oil and gunk, could it be it got spilt in there, or since it sat so long oil worked up slowly past the piston rings. right now when i get on it with ETC on and O/D off it doesnt wanna rev much past 4 grand, earlier though on the way home it was hesitant past 3.

heres pics.



heres how the motor sounds in park, its also got one hell of a tick to it.
http://home.triad.rr.com/jimsaccord/supraidle.wav

If anyone knows whats wrong or can tell me how to check I'd really appreciate it, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
oh btw, the throttle body was straight up BLACK and nasty. and when taking it off there was some little canster of what looks like cotton, its small and clear. it was connected to a hose at the top and had a hoze dangling from it from the bottom. what is that and whats that other end supposed to connect to? Could it or a vacume line be causing the higher idle?
 

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white guy
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the oils gotta be from the valve covers, clean all that oil outta there, den replace the valve cover gaskets and get new bolts to replace the stock screws. Torque em down enough so they hold tight
 

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Can't wait for Spring!
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haha, dude your not in that bad of shape. piston rings are definately not causing oil there. its ok, i had the same problem. its your valve cover gaskets, they're loose or worn down. its easy to fix, consult the toyota service/repair manual (TSRM) on how to do it. That small canister filled with cotton is important and believe it or not it is supposed to dangle there. lol. dumb i know, the tsrm also explains its purpose, try looking under EFI system or emission controls. when you take off the throttle and y-pipe you will notice a lot of black crap in there. thats okay, thats toyotas brilliant solution to US emission laws. unfortunately the engine doens't like it so much. :rolleyes:

hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks alot for you help man, that makes things much easier.

is there some kinda search function in the TSRM cause im lookin in there and i can find shit about removing the valve cover and changing the gaskets

Fatboy - you said get new bolts to replace the stock screws, are you saying i should switch from screws to bolts or just get new screws from toyota?
 

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Slowly but Surely
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I had the same problem. When I was changing my plugs, #'s 1,2,3, and 4 were fine but 5 & 6 had a little oil in them. But the thing is that the oil was around the thread and not at the tip of the spark plug. So i was told its ok if the oil does not touch the tip.
 

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Can't wait for Spring!
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umm ya, the tsrm is all pictures so u really can't search, just browse. i'll give ya the rundown
1) remove intake plumbing, hoses, afm
a) remove pcv system
b) remove and mark all vacuum hoses from throttle
2) remove the throttle body
3) remove the y-pipe
4) remove the spark plugs
5) there are a bunch of phillips screws holding down the valve covers, pretty crappy, remove those
6) pull off the valve covers and and remove seals
7) coat new seals with oil and replace
8) reassemble
a) make sure to get those valve cover screws down nice and snug
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks again jong. just wanna clarify a couple things

while I'm replacing this gasket, are there any more gaskets i can easly replace while I'm at it. My throttle body gasket is in good shape and since its metal thats all good, are there gaskets on the other end of the Y pipe I'll need?

when I'm retightening the valve cover screws down, Do I just hand tighten them as much as I can? Same thing with the throttle body and Y pipe bolts, do i just hand tighten or are there torque specs?

and finally, whlie the Y pipe and throttle body is off, should i get some carb cleaner or something and try to clean all that black crud out. and while the valve cover is off I should easily be able to get that oil outta the plug holes right?

Sorry if im askin too many question I just dont wanna end up screwing something over or having to make 6 trips back and forth to autozone for shit. Thanks for your help
 

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Can't wait for Spring!
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don't worry about askin questions. its all good! :)

yes. you are technically supposed to replace the gaskets you remove like the throttle and y-pipe. i didn't, but it all depends on thier condition. if they are really thin or over compressed and/or dirty. replace them.

There are always torq specs for stuff. but the valve covers can be hand tightened. you must remember, your screwing into aluminum, and like all metal, it has a limit to how much pressure it can take. i'd say nice a snug for the valve covers ought to do it, and i'd say fairly tight for the throttle and y-pipe. I don't know, i've removed that stuff from my car so many times i've got a "feel' for it, but i'd suggest looking in the TSRM for the exact specs. (there should be a seperate section) i'll see if i can find it.

Yes, remove those carbon deposits. carb cleaner works well. try to avoid abrasives on the inside cause you don't want metal in your engine. you can soak up that oil with a paper towl.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok, my boy and I got all the shit off. broke the Y-pipe gasket, I think the oil breather hose-that big ass fat hose the end of it crumbled and some other shit

that sensor looking thing that bolts into the Y pipe, is that the idle speed controller because i think i need another one of those and the gasket for it.

I got the hex bolts to replace those shitty screws with and lock washers(all of which were loose as shit), when we go to put those back in, do we just use those washers and bolts or do i use the rubber washers on the screws with the bolt and lock washer.

the center gasket where the spark plugs are was also all fucked up so I'm gonna have to blow 40 on that bitch.

I cant think striaght right now but I'll post a pic later and circle the things that broke that i dont know the name of
 

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Discussion Starter #13
word, sup man. im in the triad. kernersville area mainly

thanks for the link but i aint got time to wait for it to get here, i need to get this bitch together and out of my garage by tomorrow night *friday* So unless he can meet me somewhere tomorrow around 4 oclock in high point and lemme buy this thing I'm gonna have to go OEM shit cause it costs just as much.

Ok, more questions

Should i put anything on these new gaskets to seal them up or just put the gaskets against clean bare metal?

About the rubber washer deal... lemme get this straight... With my new HEX bolts and LOCK WASHERS I sitll use the Rubber washers that are with the stock Screws. So the order when i put it back together will be rubber washer on bottom, lock washer on top of it, and then the bolt head... right?

Heres the two parts I dont know WTF they are but i prolly need new ones.

This is the hose. its attached to the drivers side vavle cover right below the oil cap.



and heres is the thing that goes into the Y Pipe... it is NOT the idle speed controller, but wtf is it cause i think i might need a new one and a gasket for it.

 
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The first thing is a PCV hose, as I recall - It connects from your block up the the head - needs to be replaced if it's not ig good shape

the second thing is your cold start injector - Clean the end of it up, put a new gasket on with it - Why do you think you need a new one?
 

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that hose looks in bad shape, i'd replace that. and the other is your cold start injector. you prolly dont' need a new one. oh, and i think you are confusing y-pipe with intake manifold.

the throttle connects to the y-pipe, the y-pipe connects to the intake manifold via those two holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
woop, yeah my bad. iwas confusing them. the resoan i thought i needed a new one is this is just nasty as shit and looks burnt or somethin, but I'll do what you said and just get a new gasket for it.

Now what about when i put those valve covers back on and use the bolts and washers, do I still also use the origional rubber washers as well.

and when im putting all this back together, I put on the #3 cylinder head gasket FIRST, then the two valve cover gaskets, right?

Thanks again.
 
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Make sure you clena up the end of the cold start injector, like I mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
ok, I did all this shit, toyota sold me a fuckin broke gasket on the y-pipe (surge thing) so my boy traced it and made a new gasket with 5 dollar gasket material and im goin to return that broke shit to toyota monday. also, while i was HAND tightening the new valve cover bolts I managed to crack the valve cover, woopdy-fuckin-doo, so I JB Welded that mess up and im gonna let it dry, hopefully that'll take care of it. car seems to run farely better, but the motors still just too damn old to really give any results or good power. I hopin that crack in the valve cover doesnt cause that shit to come loose and lose the seal and it all leak like a bitch again. Anyways, it all went ok. thanks for all your help with this shit... only one last question, The car's still idling too Damn high in park, like about 2 grand, mainly 1.5 grand... any way to fix it. Thanks!
 
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