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Discussion Starter #1
After two years of having all my stereo stuff sitting in my room, I am finally going to make an effort to get a tight system installed in my supra.

I would like to keep the weight down and would like to keep the car balanced. I am also planning on a VERY clean install.

What I currently have....

JL 300/4
JL 1000/1
MB Quart seperates for the front and rear.
Alpine CD player.

I have not purchased subs since I have not decided on the sub configuration yet. I was considering two or three twelves OR two or three tens. After taking a closer look I realized that my sub amp will overpower my mids and highs amp since they are not equally matched. So I decided that I could sell the 300/4 and buy a 450/4 OR I could sell the 1000/1 and get a 500/1.

So I had to decide: do I want to build a big system or a meduim system? Well after looking at the current draw requirements I realized that 1450 watts will put a big strain on my electrical system. Also after looking at my interior I decided it would be a LOT easier and cleaner to go with the smaller amps. I was origionaly going to put the subs where the back seat would normally go. I just could not picture an install that would look the way I want back there. So I have decided to sell the JL 1000/1 and get a JL 500/1 mono block and put a back seat back into the car. I am going to flush mount the two amps into the back of the back seat for a clean look.

HERE IS WHERE I NEED YOUR HELP....

I am not sure what sub configuration to go with. Remember I only have 500 watts to power the subs and I want it clean and loud. I am considering two JL 12W3v2's OR one 12W6v2 OR one 13.5W6v2. All of these configurations should work well with 500 watts. I am also considering subs from Elemental Designs but the ones that people love I am afraid will not work best with 500 watts. The sub(s) will be installed in the trunk area.

What should I do???

Any input from those with solid experience would REALLY be appreciated. I am looking for opinions on sub configuration AND what type of box it should be used in. (ie ported tuned to 15hz or sealed enclosure)


Thanks!!!

-pete
 
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since you decided for sure to go with the 500/1, i would recommend 2 of these. ported or sealed is really a matter of personal preference, but if were me, i'd put them in a sealed enclosure. 2 of those 12's in a sealed box is going to sound damn good. i think you'd be more than happy with them.:D

BTW, what ED subs were you considering?
 

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I have 2 12" jl w3v2 powered by a PG Tantrum 1200.1. Each receiving about 600watts rms. I also have a Lightning audio strike s600.4 to power my components. I'm runnin somewhere around 1500 watts at least constantly and there is no strain to my electrical system in my 99 v6 accord. I doubt there will be much strain on your car.

About the subs, JL subs and Elemental Design subs are VERY efficient with the power given and get plenty loud. I've heard both subs and I'm thoroughly impressed by the SQ of the ED subs, esp the EDA. To me its definitely cleaner than the w6v2 and if you just give it 500 watts, I think the EDA will do very well, or even the w6v2. IMO, w6v2s need around 500-600watts rms and w7s need 1000watts rms to sound great. EDA can get by with the 1000 very well. I'm all for sealed, even though I heard the EDA ported, still retained a lot of SQ but I'm more of a sealed guy. 500 watts to 2 jlw3v2's would be nice, since the recommended wattage is 300watts rms, you'll be throwin at least 500 to each sub in which they'll sound great. However, these subs can handle double the power minimum but I've noticed that my subs are a bit distorted now because I think i feed it too much power. I'm going to switch to a single EDA later, maybe 2. The thing is you have a hatchback, if this is going into your supra, its going to get VERY LOUD with 1000 watts pushing ANY sub or subs. Just remember that. I've heard great things about Adire as well, have you checked into them??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ineed2speed said:
500 watts to 2 jlw3v2's would be nice, since the recommended wattage is 300watts rms, you'll be throwin at least 500 to each sub in which they'll sound great. However, these subs can handle double the power minimum but I've noticed that my subs are a bit distorted now because I think i feed it too much power. I'm going to switch to a single EDA later, maybe 2. The thing is you have a hatchback, if this is going into your supra, its going to get VERY LOUD with 1000 watts pushing ANY sub or subs. Just remember that. I've heard great things about Adire as well, have you checked into them??
I am selling the 1000/1 and will be picking up a 5001/ to replace it. So I am only going to run 500 watts total to all the subs weather it be one or two. That means the JL 12W3v2's would only get 250 watts each. If I use one JL 12 or 13.5 W6v2 it will get 500 watts.
With the ED subs it will depend on wich sub I choose if i go with one or two.

Thanks,
-pete
 

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keep the 1000 and put it to a 12w6v2... i have a rf powed bd1000 (1111 rms) to a v2 in a 1.15 ft^3 sealed box and it is loud... brian
p.s. i still have my setup on brianb's install page for sale.
 

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A JL 1000/1 dedicated to a single 12w7 in a slot ported box could be tuned to very low frequencies and would absolutly slam. I would keep the 1000/1, and use it to drive a single sub. Sealed boxes are nice, but from what I've read, you can acheive louder, lower frequencies with a slot ported box.
 

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silvermkiv
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You mentioned weight savings, so here is what I would suggest. I would use a single eclipse aluminum 12" DVC in a 2 cu/ft ported box tuned to 26hz. I have heard this set up in person and it absolutely blew my mind how good it sounded! This set up was being powered by a memphis mc500d, which is pretty much the same as the jl 500/1 you are going to get. Hook the coils on the woofer in parallel and you will get a 2ohm load at the amp. Your 300/4 will be fine to run your mids/highs with. Personally, I would just do a component set up front and not install any rear fill. I would use fiberglass for the bottom of the sub box and mdf for the top where the woofer mounts. Mount the sub to the left of the spare tire hump and you will have room to flush mount both amps to the right and still have room to store the targa. Porting the box improves the efficiency of the woofer, meaning it takes less power to drive it properly.

IMO, 15hz tune is way to low to tune a ported box. Your port would have to be freakin huge to get it that low, which will use up alot of your air space.
 

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would you have the port facing up in the hatch?
can the port be protected in anyway from things falling in by accident? Maybe the port couuld extend beyond the box and angle back towards the back seat?
also, for the math majors...with volume of the spare hump in the back and fiberglass on the bottom, can someone figure out dimensions for the sides of a box as well as a port to get the 2cu.ft. plus port tuned to say...25-30 hz
in otherwords...design my box please =)
i was going to go with the brian b infamous setup trying to fit 2 12s in there but i would also like to consider builiding a single 12 ported enclosure. I have the means to make virtually any cut necessary and would like to make use of it.
eclipse alum is on my list for my next setup
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You guys are crazy! I really like the fact that I can flush in the two amps into the back of the back seat so I would still like to use the 500/1.

I am open to a ported box. So far I think the Titanium Eclipse with one 12 sounds like a good suggestion BUT are you taking into the fact that the 500/1 at a 2 ohm load will still only put out around 500ish watts???

Also, could I do the same with one 12W6v2 OR 13.5W6v2???

Also who here has tried only using the fronts for mids and highs??? This would allow me to run 150 watts to each channel in front and then maybe it could keep up with the 1000/1 but I would still have the problem of mounting the 1000/1 since it would not flush into the rear seat with the 300/4. I could put the 300/4 under the passanger seat :) and just flush the 1000/1 in. But what about the Current draw??? Will it be too much w/o a bigger alternator???

Thanks and keep the suggestions comming. I really appreciate it.

-pete
 

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if you dont want to upgrade the alternator...caps and extra batteries could be used as sort of a bandaid...
depending on the health of your alternator you might not need to but if you decide to upgrade it i think a custom one from ohio generators would be the way to go...there was a discussion on alternators a few months ago that im sure you can find
 

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I have a Zapco Z400C4-SL 1 ohm stable Competition Amp which will be powering 2 10" Eclipse Eclipse 8710.4 subs, and 2 sets of Focal 130KS Mids and Highs

I live in Tampa as well and you are free to check out my setup anytime - but it may be too big for what you are going for, since it takes over my back seats (no back seats in car at all), and is mostly for show/competition

- Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would really like to check out your system. Is it already installed in the car? Do you have a sealed enclosure? What direction do the subs face? (are they pointed towards the rear of the car?)

I think if I could check it out and have a good listen it would most likely answer most of my questions.

Thanks,
-pete

kirk_mk3 said:
I have a Zapco Z400C4-SL 1 ohm stable Competition Amp which will be powering 2 10" Eclipse Eclipse 8710.4 subs, and 2 sets of Focal 130KS Mids and Highs

I live in Tampa as well and you are free to check out my setup anytime - but it may be too big for what you are going for, since it takes over my back seats (no back seats in car at all), and is mostly for show/competition

- Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also, as far as the ED subs go I was thinking of maybe the E12O in a sealed box with 500 watts going to it.
 

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Magic said:
I would really like to check out your system. Is it already installed in the car? Do you have a sealed enclosure? What direction do the subs face? (are they pointed towards the rear of the car?)

I think if I could check it out and have a good listen it would most likely answer most of my questions.

Thanks,
-pete
Should be installed in the car by this week (I am doing all the wiring myself), if you IM me I can show you the installation pictures.

The subs are pointed towards the hatch, I've always had better luck pointing the subs up rather than back.

Are you going for better sound quality or for good bass?

- Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I would like to try and achieve a good balance between good sound quality with good base. By this I mean a system that plays as much of the audio dynamic range well in and balanced. I would rather have a sub that can play a good range rather than something that just slams at one frequency. The best systems I have heard either point towards the back of the car with a slight angle up or are directly pointed at the hatch.

Pointing them at the hatch is hard to go wrong with. But I have mostly used sealed enclosures in the past. I did use a band pass box in the hatch of my TT 300ZX with two tens for a while and it was pretty loud but it also was tuned to play a pretty wide range. It must be hard to tune a band pass box that well because to date I have heard very few band pass boxes that could play SQ that well and still hit pretty hard. Granted to tune it this way you will loose a little volume but it will still be louder than a sealed enclosure. I will IM, I will probably be on later today.

-pete

kirk_mk3 said:
Should be installed in the car by this week (I am doing all the wiring myself), if you IM me I can show you the installation pictures.

The subs are pointed towards the hatch, I've always had better luck pointing the subs up rather than back.

Are you going for better sound quality or for good bass?

- Kirk
 

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You should point it toward the hatch no matter what, and if ported, also toward the hatch (ports should always be on the same plane as the woofer). It seems like you want alot of things to happen while using the least amount of space use, the least amount of weight and the best of sql and dbs. If you're porting the box, you'll have more weight. If you use a 12 you'll be slammin' constantly (due to the hatch), if you want good range then a 12 or 10 is good but if you want the light weight then go with a 10. If i were you, one 12 ported in a good size box, mount both amps to the back of the box and some quality component sets should do the trick. I'd look at different name woofers tho cuz there's better sq type woofers than JL out there. People tend to get carried away by the JL name and usual quality of their woofers.
 

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Did you want to go with something that takes up the whole hatch area flush with the bottom so that the targa fits as well? IMO that is the only way a system will look clean in a Supra, which is why I ditched my last setup and went all out with this one

We will definately meet up sometime so you can check it out, I should be finished installing it tomorrow morning since it gets dark early now
 

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I wouldn't go with the titanium version. It's a whole lot more expensive and the ported box specs will be different. The aluminum series is the one I would suggest, the dual voice coil model. Trust me, the 500/1 will be plenty of power for that sub in a ported box. As I said, the efficiency of the sub is greatly increased in a ported box. Now if you go sealed, then I would keep the 1000/1, as a sealed box increases the subs power handling. Ported and tuned low, around 26hz will be great for sound quality and will hit hard when you want it to. Also, only having 75 watts on the speakers even using 1000 for the subs will not be a problem. Thats how I have mine right now and the subs do not over power the mids/highs. If you can find speakers that will handle the 150 watts, thats fine and it should sound good also.
 
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