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i always say toyota !
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i did a research. people say we should use 1200ohm resistor for the MAF with the VPC, and HKS recommanded 1200ohm. but some people say, they found out we should use 2200ohm. which one is better? which one should i use? which one are you using? and where do i stick the resistor to the MAF? i saw pictures from a thread that i have found. but i couldnot find it anymore.
 

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just did mine and the 1200ohm worked fine for me,I put the resistor in the maf. When you go to start your car it may take a few tries but it will start, have patience,good luck.
 

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i always say toyota !
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
SYONARA said:
just did mine and the 1200ohm worked fine for me,I put the resistor in the maf. When you go to start your car it may take a few tries but it will start, have patience,good luck.
can you take a picture of your resistor, post the picture here or send it to me? or tell me what pins should the resistor stick with?
 

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i always say toyota !
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok, i found the thread with pictures again. i put a 2200ohm resistor into it.
 

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i always say toyota !
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i am having problems. code 31, MAF. with 2200ohm resistor plug to the MAF, the car dies after accelerate. and the car won't accelerate with 1000ohm resistor (i tried to look for the 1200ohm, but i couldnot find it). did i install my VPC wrong? should i try to weld the resistor first?
 

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On my old car, I bought a used VPC harness and it came w/ a 2200 ohm resistor, I had to go to radioshack and buy a variety pack of about 100 resistors to get a 1200 ohm one, but it worked fine.
 

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Your code 31 has nothing to do with the air temp "lock-down" resistor. Check your install of the VPC again, especially if you used electrotaps (Scotch Loks). Also, the resistor is placed near the ECU for a reason- not out at the MAF connector. Finally, like I said before, the value of resistor is not as critical as you think. Afterall, ambient temperature extremes need to be taken into consideration and the difference between 1200 and 2200 ohms is within that extreme. Besides, if you had the resistor installed incorrectly, you would be seeing an additional code for that as well as 31.
 

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i always say toyota !
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
is there something wrong with me ECU? now the car idles normal after 30 min of idling. looks like the ECU learned a little. and i can accelerate to 4000 RPM to 5000 RPM and it dies or the RPM would drop to idle for a sec. looks like the ECU is learning, but is this too slow? is my ECU learning too slowly?
 

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I can't say for sure but I've read some posts where that may be the case. I doubt it though. I've hooked-up three of these so far and the most amount of time for the factory ECU to regain control, after a boot-up, has been a few miles or so.
Silly Q but do you have the correct IC for your fuel system/turbo? Also, do you happen to be tied into Pin 57 with anything else?
Finally, what are you using for fueling- GCC? If so, check your settings (rpm vs. boost, etc.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
MtFujiSupra said:
I can't say for sure but I've read some posts where that may be the case. I doubt it though. I've hooked-up three of these so far and the most amount of time for the factory ECU to regain control, after a boot-up, has been a few miles or so.
Silly Q but do you have the correct IC for your fuel system/turbo? Also, do you happen to be tied into Pin 57 with anything else?
Finally, what are you using for fueling- GCC? If so, check your settings (rpm vs. boost, etc.)

oh, you mean we need to drive the car to have the ECU regain? i havenot drive it yet after the vpc.

what is pin 57?

i didnot install any other fuel control. i have apexi avc-r. should i do something to the avc-r?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Stu Hagen said:
one reads a static 72 degrees, the other reads like 104 degrees. I prefer the 72, but keep in mind that the 1200 ohm @ 104 degrees maybe closer to true intake temps/

you are right, 104 degree is more like the real intake temp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
anyone knows what is wrong with my car? i checked the boost sensor voltage. voltage is showing right. now the car idles normal, but cut off once a while by itself. when i step on the gas hard, the RPM would raise up to 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000.... randomly and drop to idle and die even i didnot release the gas, and the RPM goes up again and drop to idle sometimes, and its got the hesitation before the RPM goes up. i can drive it, it just cut off at WOT. sometimes die at stop sign.

oh yea, the car doesnot die that much at WOT when i am driving it. the RPM goes up and down, hesitation. dies alot when idle and WOT (RPM drops slowly and die).
 

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Stu Hagen said:
one reads a static 72 degrees, the other reads like 104 degrees. I prefer the 72, but keep in mind that the 1200 ohm @ 104 degrees maybe closer to true intake temps/
That is not the point. The goal is to maintain stoich. in closed loop condition independent of ambient temp. Again, that his not his problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
MtFujiSupra said:
That is not the point. The goal is to maintain stoich. in closed loop condition independent of ambient temp. Again, that his not his problem.

yea, i think so too. the resistor is not my problem. i am very off topic. maybe i should start another topic. so more people would look at the thread. 1200ohm or 2200ohm sounds like a very boring topic.
 
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