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Discussion Starter #1
I went to the track last night with my BPU+ 1j Mk3 and I just knew that I was going to run some good times. The track was packed. It was hot earlier but was cooled off by 8PM (60's). Anyway, I finally got up to run. The track was prepped pretty well because of the muscle cars that came out. I did a 2nd gear burn out and pulled up to the line. Low and behold I had to race a muscle car. Not what I had wanted. This was not a suped up Camaro, but one of the older tricked out muscle cars. I knew I was going to get my ass handed to me. I just wanted to run the best that I could. I got to the line and I simulated a 2-step. Padded it and kept the revs between 4700 and 5300 RPMs (approx). I saw that the boost gauge was at 10-11 psi. Right before the green light dropped, I held it at 5 grand. Boost HELD. I slipped the clutch and I heard a loud BOOM. I thought, damn somebody shot me. I got off the gas and drifted to the side to find out that my Aluminum driveshaft had been ripped apart. Looking at the pictures, it doesn't look like its too thick. The "DriveShaft Shop" (normally out of NY and now based in NC) said that it was good for 600 hp. I know that I am NOWHERE NEAR that amount. How much you guys wanna bet they will try [email protected] ME on this by either giving me another thin one or not giving me my money back. STAY AWAY FROM THESE GUYS. Go for steel (and get it from somewhere else!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
 

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yeah thats me!
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danm at least you have that brace there to prevent the DS from going nuts.... i need to get tht brace when i go 1 pc.... craxy/
 

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*SNICKER SNICKER*
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:scratch:

That sux...

How long ago did you get the driveshaft?
 

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jblaze said:
The "DriveShaft Shop" (normally out of NY and now based in NC) said that it was good for 600 hp. I know that I am NOWHERE NEAR that amount. How much you guys wanna bet they will try [email protected] ME on this by either giving me another thin one or not giving me my money back. STAY AWAY FROM THESE GUYS. Go for steel (and get it from somewhere else!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Call DSS and talk to Frank. I've dealt with him A LOT and he backs his products.

Post back and let us know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got the driveshaft in Aug-Sept time frame. Frank sold it to me. He is the head cust service mgr and I had a problem with the measurements. I have a jdm r154. I didn't think that made a difference, but the regular one that he made me was about 2'' too short. So I dealt with him alot. I sincerely HOPE that he will take good care of me. Anyway, from what I was told, I had ONE HELL OF A 30 foot. I drifted the other 30 feet.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Anyone know where I can get a good steel one pc driveshaft from (preferrably from the East Coast near Md.)?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can also rip motor mounts. This is a pretty strong motor and tranny! (This was not a result of my run Friday night but something that happened last summer). It seems that the more power you make, the more shit you break.
 

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Yes that night sucked for sure, well get it fixed.
 

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Wow that fucking sucks bro :( .
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Jawsgear, what do you mean that they are right on the horsepower rating? NO WAY IN HELL do I have 600hp. I am not bitching at you, but my driveshaft could not hold the power I had/have. Anyone here have an AL driveshaft and is putting down over 400whp? How does it hold up? Oh, thanks MattOneDime. I will keep that in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think I know what you mean, jawsgear. The Al driveshaft must really be able to handle that amount of power. I just got a "lemon" of a driveshaft. Mine must have been 1/3 of the thickness of the regular ones. Does anyone have any pics that will show the thickness (maybe one cut open) of a normal Al driveshaft?
 

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There is a difference between a ds being able to hold 600hp, and launching a car at 10-11lbs of boost..

That does suck though. Dont see why they wouldnt warranty it.
 

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I was there when Jblaze broke the driveshaft. I think it was the combination of a very sticky track and a fast releasing unsprung clutch. But thats no excuse for a driveshaft breaking like that, especially considering the tires were 225 Nitto drag-radials.

If that driveshaft is rated for 600rwhp, I would hate to how thin the metal they use on there 400rwhp driveshaft. Seeing it in person, it was really alarming to see just how weak this driveshaft looked.
 

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jblaze,

Man I couldn't make it out, but i'll be there this friday fo sure!

Man your fuckin' drive shaft's metal looks thin as paper......

that suxs.
vnt :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I am sending the "Driveshaft Shop" pictures of the breakage and HOPEFULLY they will replace it with a normal Al driveshaft (not the econo one I had) or maybe even a steel one pc. At this point, I would rather have the steel. I am going single soon so maybe the steel would be a better choice. I don't want to get the Al one with the twins on my car, then go single and rip it apart AGAIN. I don't know if there is such a thing, but I want to build a "reliable" race car or one that is VERY close to it. It starts with reliable parts. When you are getting your parts, make sure you plan for future hp desires. It may just save you time and money.
 
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