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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please keep everything in this post positive, im sick of people bringing negativity into posts i make and getting them locked.

background: ecu shorted out a while back, bought a new 1, took my car to a shop to get the timing done, timing was done wrong, car barely ran, reverted timing, car wont start at all. toyota thinks its the igniter or ecu (isnt the igniter) but i did have audio express recently install a viper alarm which was wired to the ignition.

Anyways, a few months back my ECU went out, i purchased a used 1 from hi-psi and had toyota install it. the car seemed to run a little stranger than usual after it was installed. well since ive barely driven my car lately, its 1,000 miles later and the new ecu i bougth shitted out on me. I am NOT going to buy another used ECU, i dont give a fuck, im not dealing with this shit AGAIN if i can avoid it. Now a shop wants $500 for a rebuilt ecu. I'm sure everyone knows 2jz-ge motors go for abour 500-1,000$ on ebay, and 2jz gte aristo engines with automatics go for 2,00-3,000. My engine as it is has pretty high mileage. So here are my options, fork over $500 for a rebuilt ecu, fork over about 800 for a 2jz ge motor with roughly 40,000 miles, then spend teh additional money turboing it in the future. or fork over the money for a 2jz gte swap. if i do the 2jz gte i will keep the 5 speed, which means ill need a 6 speed jdm ecu, anyone know where i can get 1 or the price? (i have a clutch food for 400rwhp so it should be ok) does anyone have any ideas?

I did recently have a viper alarm installed. im sure they wired it somewhere to the ignition because it kills the ignitoion while the alarm is armed. could them wiring the alarm have shorted out the ecu, or does anyone have any ideas if this could be the source of the priblem? Thanks.
 

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2JZ-Phantom
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Has to be a short somewhere along the harness if the ecu keeps cutting out. If possible you should test the broke ecu in another supra to confirm. Also if you know where the wires for the alarm went, you should check them. But if it comes down to it you should just do a swap. It will offer you more tuning options and plus it is legal so no smog issue except for the fact that you will have to get the egr equipment on the jdm egine. Sorry if this is not the answer you are looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i dont know anyone with another NA. another option will be going stand alone, anyone know how much this would cost? since im going turbo eventually. and with stand alone, that removes the need for an s-afc right?
 

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Hardtopper
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I just sold my spare OBD1 ECU for 60 bux. and yes you dont need an safc with a standalone.
 

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TT This
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Rather than swapping ecu's you should swap the engine harness's. You may have shorts "somewhere" that may take forever to find... I think you've found that swapping the ecu's doesn't fix it. I don't think the alarm would hurt anything as they probably just intercepted the main iginition wire out of the iginiton to cut the car's engine. I think buying a whole GTE swap is alittle drastic unless you planned on it already. Good luck man
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
NinetyFiveNA said:
Rather than swapping ecu's you should swap the engine harness's. You may have shorts "somewhere" that may take forever to find... I think you've found that swapping the ecu's doesn't fix it. I don't think the alarm would hurt anything as they probably just intercepted the main iginition wire out of the iginiton to cut the car's engine. I think buying a whole GTE swap is alittle drastic unless you planned on it already. Good luck man
well last time buying a new ECU solved my problem and the car ran...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
NinetyFiveNA said:
hmm I thought I read you bought 2 ecu's in the past and they both crapped out.
Well, theres the one that came with the car, crapped out, picked 1 up from hi-psi and it recently crapped out, but it wasnt instant or within a week or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
kmn5 said:
Any CEL's?
my O2's were causing a short and eating up my ignitors
whats a CEL? sorry,not familiar with that term.
 

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yeah if you have a check engine light, then pull the codes, that'll help point in the right direction for troubleshooting.

too bad you not local, installing the ecu takes like 15 mins
you don't need the dealer
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
michaelvanle said:
:big thumg: ...so does checking the timing :lol: .

[I'll stay away now :lol:]
the timing was checked about 50 times
 

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a good electrical guy should be able to find that short you have. they have electrical short finders that make it easier too. Deff not a 10min thing, but it's doable.
 

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WhiteBlazze said:
a good electrical guy should be able to find that short you have. they have electrical short finders that make it easier too. Deff not a 10min thing, but it's doable.
yeah finding a short takes time, but
if it's just installing a ecu, thats 15 mins


they sell short finders at electrical places
it's 2 wires and a display with an arrow; thats if you wanna tinker around with it first
 

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2005 LP640
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Dude, it has to be your timing........the shop even mentioned they couldn't get your timing within spec.

You're still at -10 BTDC...........you need to be at 10 BTDC. You were AT -21 BTDC.

I highly suggest taking the cam cover off and COMPLETELY redoing your timing.

From what you told me, it sounds like all the shop did was use a timing light.......and they might not have bridged the neccesary connections on the diag port.

If you want I'll come by and help you..........but you're buying the pizza.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
87turbosupra said:
Dude, it has to be your timing........the shop even mentioned they couldn't get your timing within spec.

You're still at -10 BTDC...........you need to be at 10 BTDC. You were AT -21 BTDC.

I highly suggest taking the cam cover off and COMPLETELY redoing your timing.

From what you told me, it sounds like all the shop did was use a timing light.......and they might not have bridged the neccesary connections on the diag port.

If you want I'll come by and help you..........but you're buying the pizza.
i asked the shop, they didnt mean to use a double negative what they meant was the car was at -20 or 20 BTDC and they put it at 11 BTDC not - making it a positive. i guess something else has gone wrong since we were there because this is what the shop has told me "The injector pulse is erratic or non-existent. " the timing can't cause that can it? They say the car wont even start, it barely started when we were there, but aoarebtly it wont even start now. and the car ran a 14.7 with the timing being 10 degrees off, and bad tires, and since then ive installed electric fans and electric water pump.. i wish i coulda seen what it was really capable of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
timing is a tooth of, but it ran just fine like that before, so it is very doubtable that its the timing. i bought an igniter form toyota 6 months ago for 400$ and they have a 12 monthw arranty but wont let me replace it because they're complete fucktards... anyone got a really cheap ecu or igniter for sale (that work)?
 
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