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Discussion Starter #1
So over the winter I installed a new mishimoto x-line radiator and the mishimoto dual fan shroud with fans, and a derale dual fan controller. It was great and didn’t overheat until the temperature started getting warm outside. Now driving on the freeway @ 70mph it’s starting to overheat. I’ve burped the cooling system several times with a spill free funnel. No air in the cooling system at my last attempt. It gets to 215-230 with the a/c on. I turn off the a/c and it hovers around 200-210. Anyone else have this issue after installing this setup? My car is basically a BPU setup with a single turbo setup. Only other change I made to the car over the winter was to install an ETS 5” intercooler kit.
 

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Master Shit Fixer
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Here's some cooling math for ya:
5" intercooler, minus OEM clutch fan, plus electric fans, plus warm outside temperature, plus A/C engaged, equals 230 degrees.

Ditch the electric fans and reinstall the stock clutch fan and shroud.
 

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Here's some cooling math for ya:
5" intercooler, minus OEM clutch fan, plus electric fans, plus warm outside temperature, plus A/C engaged, equals 230 degrees.

Ditch the electric fans and reinstall the stock clutch fan and shroud.
Listen to the OGs. You won't regret it.

Hope you get it fixed. Very annoying and scary problem to have.

Regards,

Rishi

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here's some cooling math for ya:
5" intercooler, minus OEM clutch fan, plus electric fans, plus warm outside temperature, plus A/C engaged, equals 230 degrees.

Ditch the electric fans and reinstall the stock clutch fan and shroud.
My original clutch fan was broke when I got the car missing half of two of the blades. I was just waiting for it to come apart the rest of the way. Hence one of the reasons switching to electric fans. And the shroud has a few cracks and small pieces missing. I checked and the mishimoto fans have just over 1100cfm. Any chance switching to a different brand like SPAL fan with a 1400+ cfm would help?
 

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Boost Junkie
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It's not your fans that are the problem. At speed the fans do nothing. They only help move air at idle and slow speed cruising. IT sounds to me like the shroud design is poor. Please post pictures.

STeve
 

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Master Shit Fixer
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...or your thermostat is stuck closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's not your fans that are the problem. At speed the fans do nothing. They only help move air at idle and slow speed cruising. IT sounds to me like the shroud design is poor. Please post pictures.

STeve
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6CDFD801-194E-422C-95AC-F4112A173D89.jpeg
 

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97 HARD TOP
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I have a ets 5 inch thick intercooler with a mishimoto radiator as well and electric fans (buck performance fan shroud and dual aluminum permacool 14 inch fans) and my temps stay between 190 and 200 depending on how hard I get on it. So maybe it's that thin mishimoto fan shroud and those fans causing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have a ets 5 inch thick intercooler with a mishimoto radiator as well and electric fans (buck performance fan shroud and dual aluminum permacool 14 inch fans) and my temps stay between 190 and 200 depending on how hard I get on it. So maybe it's that thin mishimoto fan shroud and those fans causing it.
What does your fan shroud look like, similar to the mishimoto fan shroud? I’m thinking about swapping fans for higher cfm units...
 

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97 HARD TOP
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Sent you a pm
 

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Boost Junkie
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That fan shroud is absolute trash. The air flowing through the radiator at high speeds has nowhere to escape. The shroud should be engineered in a way that allows air to flow through easily at higher speeds. With that shroud, the air is being trapped between the shroud and the radiator, thus making the radiator a heat sink. The air can't flow easily through it. THe shroud should be a few inches thicker with more area and should direct airflow out through and around the fans.

If you are going to keep that shroud, then you have got to replace those fans with larger ones with more diameter, cut the radiator shroud to fit the new fans. This will allow more air to freely pass through the shroud. It's basic physics. Take a look at the PHR IS300 shroud, which is the best out there, and compare it to yours.

I can't believe they sell that shroud with their kit. Total Trash.

STeve
 
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boost life
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I would agree on shroud design for efans being critical, but whats more critical is the type /brand of fan itself ,size and blade design makes all the difference and depth of shroud with free air reliefs

For my recently done rebuild ,I installed the phr spal dual fan setup on my mishimoto xline . I use trd 160 deg and 2 bottles of water wetter and in South Florida high heat and humidity my car can sit and idle for 45 minutes + in hottest no air flow section of my garage and my temps with low speed fan only ,I can maintain between 165 and 172 with hard free revving , did the same with ac on left it idling 92 deg for over 45 minutes to see how fans would handle temps and yes it did rise to 181 degrees but thats my high speed setting and would drop temps without having to rev for more waterpump speed ,to low 170's and cycle there

Also imo what's also important is do you have high speed ,low speed functionality and also are you using upgraded amperage alternator to ensure enough for fans to operate correctly. I use a 170amp mechman special designed by them for me with set voltage at 14.8 volts at idle and after 1 hour run time ,I maintain 14.2 volts with ac on , heavy stereo system on , hid lights on
 

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Boost Junkie
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At highway speeds the fans don't serve a purpose. The shroud design is more important.

Steve
 
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