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From the land down under
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Never trust the CFM ratings that most electric fan manufacturers claim, as they will be numbers achieved with the fan in free air. Add the resistance of a radiator core in front of them, and performance plummets.

And as has been said already...that shroud has got to go.
 

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I’m running a similar setup and I never overheat.

You're getting a lot of great advice here, I would listen, but just a couple of things:

Are you sure you wired in right? Blue is + and black is -. You want those fans pulling air from the front of the radiator through it and out the back/sides. Otherwise known as a “puller” setup. They will spin with either polarity, but not right.

You may be trying to push from the back, which won’t work well. Also the blade design is more efficient mounted in the proper direction of rotation for its purpose, either a pusher or puller. There is a metal clip that you push in and pull it out to flip the fan blade.

Did you buy this 100% new? You sure someone didn’t screw with the blade orientation? Call the OEM, get install/setup instructions and RTM.

Also, were you over heating before this? If so, you may have something else going on that nothing cooling fan wise is going to fix until you address that first.
 

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Does it overheat driving if you remove the fans and shroud? Could easily be another problem. you aren't describing extreme conditions.
 

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I just recently upgraded from NA to TT, while the base mishimoto setup was good enough for NA, but with TT I started seeing some higher temps once the Santa Ana winds started blowing. I replaced 1 of the fans with a 12" race line and it helped knock it back down. Would have done both but my IC piping won't fit a bigger fan. I'm still debating whether I want to put the extra slim fan back in on the other side of the radiator/condenser as a pusher just to slightly boost the CFM on the weaker side.
 

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im suggesting remove the shroud and fans and drive it. if the fans are the problem it will run cooler, if not it will overheat. just be careful and don't leave it idling and stationary. others have said the fan is mostly for slow speed or when parked. i suspect there is another cause. eg timing issue, thermostat, leaky head gasket. If you had to drive it hard in hot weather to see a problem, that would be different. I'm just suggesting you make a definite dx before sinking more money into upgrades. I have an NA to T 7M and had overheating from head gasket, then timing. now runs cool with stock radiator and fan.
 

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Had that Mishimoto fan shroud / fan combo on my 1j with a PWR radiator, did not work well. Biggest issue on that car was that I had no ducting on the front side of the radiator. Air is lazy, if you give it another way around your heat exchanger, it will take it, every time.

Takeaway point? Make sure there are no other gaps around the radiator once the air is in the nose of your car. Toyota put all those ducts and panels and foam in the front end of that car for a very good reason. ;)
 

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From the land down under
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4,098 Posts
Agreed 100% ^

Apart from the factory ducting, the foam sealing strips around all of the front facing outer edges of the core, are very important, and most people who go to an aftermarket radiator dont replace them. Air behaves like a liquid and will always take the route of least resistance, so dont give it another option, apart from going through your core.
 
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