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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey All. Needed to start a new thread for this since there's no search.

I just started detailing my Supra. I've only done a few small areas so far, so I have some questions.

I've been cleaning the paint mostly with polishing compound as I prefer it to clay bars. I've also been using a little rubbing compound for scratches or problem areas where needed. My question is what should I use after these to get rid any other swirls, scratches, cloudiness in the paint? I have some Mequiars Cleaner Wax, but I don't think it's quite good enough for a final finish. I also have some Mother's California Gold Pre-Wax Cleaner. Just don't know what's best as to where to go from here to get real shine and clarity.

Also should I use my Orbital Polisher or just do it by hand? And is it ok to use terry cloth towels, or should I only use micro fiber towels? I've been using the terry cloth for the initial polishing and wipe down and then the micro fiber for final wipe down so far.

Any tips are greatly appreciated.
 

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iSketch Master!
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OK just to mention something. You really shouldn't "clean" the paint with polish as all you are really doing is grounding the dirt into the paint and applicator. I dunno, but someone correct me if I'm wrong here. You should go out and get a clay bar, or paint cleaner. Not polish.

You should be using the polish/compound to get rid of scratches, swirls and haziness. Then wax for protection. Your orbital is not really going to do well removing swirls with polish. It just doesn't generate enough speed/heat. It they are very fine you may[/i] get some out, but the orbital is not at all ideal for paint correction.

I've heard it is fine to use a terry during the heavy scratch removal process, but MF's are so cheap you might as well use them.

Alex
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry, didn't make that as clear as I should have. There were a few areas I needed the polish to clean that were just really bad . Otherwise I am using the pre wax cleaner to clean the paint.

The polish is leaving the paint a bit hazy in the problem spots, so I gues I'm going to need a high speed polisher for paint correction then. I''m really just wanting to know what to use after the cleaner and polish before the wax to make it look perfect before sealing.
 

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an orbital buffer is your friend. use a light scratch remover like meguires light cut compound. The key part is always keep the pad wet. a dry pad or one that starts drying out will scratch the surface after you buff it. after that put a good coat of polish on it by hand working in circles. if you have a dark colored car use 3m dark polish. there is a night and day difference with the dark polish on dark cars.
 

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iSketch Master!
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A regular random orbit is probably going to leave a lot to be desired in your paint finish. You really should be using at least a DA as it sounds like you might have some pretty good hazing going on there.

Alex
 

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Wangan Nasty
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Buffing paint or anything by hand does not generate enough heat or friction to blend or correct imperfections. To FIX paint, you have to use some sort of an abrasive compound or cutting compound with a pad of appropriate aggressiveness with a Porter Cable/DA Buffer.

You can only buff certain things with your hand, then the next level is Random Orbit/DA Buffer, then the highest level is a rotary buffer that just spins at w/e set Speed.

If you want to fix Swirls, Scratches, Scuffs, Oxidization. You have to clay the whole car first to remove surfact fallout/dirt. THEN you have to buff/polish the paint to fix/clean/blend whatever you need to do. When buffing with an abrasive compound (sometimes only abrasives can fix heavy damage), you have to go over it again with a softer pad with a finishing polish. That will remove any fine scuffs/hazing etc. Then you are ready for a sealant and then a wax.

Buffing is not a substitute for Clay, nor vice-versa. The purposes of both are different.

I recommend you invest in a Porter Cable 7336SP. Those can be found at LOWEs for about 110 bucks (Tax included). The 7336, 7424, etc are all part of the same family of Dual Orbit Buffers, only thing different are backing plates (you will be changing the stock backing plate anyways).

Then invest in some pads from www.autopia-carcare.com or www.exceldetail.com. Get a complete set of Orange/Yellow (heavy duty cut pads), then White or Green (Finishing Pads). You can wax on and wax off by hand with only a Microfiber towel or cloth. Make sure you buy a 6 inch packing plate from Megiuars, or autopia or wherever that has velcro so you can use the pads.

As far as compounds go, I use Autoglym Fine Abrasive (03B), and Finish with Meguiars Speed Glaze (No 80), then Autoglym Radiant Wax Polish as a sealant, you can add your choice of paste wax for gloss after this. If autoglym is hard to find I have heard good things about Meguiars No 83 Cutting Polish.

I hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the info guys. I actually have it looking pretty good now. The car does need some paint correction. I just have a few areas that need a little more attention. My next step will be getting a buffer and some cutting compound. And I guess I will do some claying first. Any recommendations on what to use as a clay lubricant?

That's interesting about using a sealant and wax. I haven't heard much about that before. Does it get really glossy by waxing it afterwards? I have read sealants don't shine as well as wax.
 

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Wangan Nasty
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Thanks for the info guys. I actually have it looking pretty good now. The car does need some paint correction. I just have a few areas that need a little more attention. My next step will be getting a buffer and some cutting compound. And I guess I will do some claying first. Any recommendations on what to use as a clay lubricant?

That's interesting about using a sealant and wax. I haven't heard much about that before. Does it get really glossy by waxing it afterwards? I have read sealants don't shine as well as wax.
Soap and water. Use Clay when washing your car. That is what i do.
 

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Wangan Nasty
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Always keep it wet, and add a good amount of soap in your bucket. Also helps to clay section by section so you make sure you get everything. A good test is after you dry your car, you can put your hand in a sandwich baggie or any thin sheet of plastic (you can really feel everything, if it is still a little rough, some buffing action will finish your paint good.)
 
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