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Your project is coming along nicely!

Thinking about having a rim painting weekend in the future. Watching a bunch of videos to prepare myself. Cant wait to see the finished product!

Considering getting an abrasive blaster from harbor freight Abrasive Blaster Gun with 1 Liter Canister to get then stripped really good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Done in about 15 mins will post pics. I just sanded n plastic wheeled n brake cleaner-ed to freshen them. If you want to strip them dont do the sand blaster from HF. Use Aircraft Stripper and a power washer, then properly prime and paint - all rattle cans.
The HF sand blaster route is a nightmare. You will pay more for the media you use alone vs a can of stripper and a cheap paintbrush to apply it.

in addition I used the better HF blaster which a buddy bought and used once and swore he'd never touch it again. Foolishly, I thought my engineering foo was stronger and that I could figure the thing out. Forget it. You will need counseling, and someone's going to read this and jump in to agree it's really truly bad in 3,2,1....
I love HF. This is the only thing I would no recommend. Do the stripper, do it out in s driveway with goggles and old clothes on and you will laugh how easy it is. But dont try sandblasting your own wheels. Im typing this in the garage while waiting the last cure cycle.
 

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Loving the sawblades, paint looks great.

You are making some good progress on that old girl!
 

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When you stripped the wheels, were they almost polished underneath? I stripped a set of white package '89 sawblades and they were basically polished. Looked great as a polished wheel with some buffing and touch up to complete the look.
 

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Hopefully your paint didn't overlap on the sealing surface for the tire - that could cause tire sealing issues. I knew a fellow that had some factory aluminum wheels chromed, and he had to add air constantly.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh wow - cool Wreckless. I wonder if there was a different final prep for the white painted wheels? I didn't strip mine, just plastic wheeled the old crusty rubber out of the sealing lips, then hand sanded the faces and called it good. But I do recall on a few spots seeing a fine radial machined pattern where I got to the aluminum. So the silver wheels may not have that.
 

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Looking fresh, Doug. My concern with rattle can paint is the softness. It's nothing at all like an automotive 2 stage paint. An agressive solvent will destroy that finish (like gasoline ). Have you though about clear coating that with a 4k clear ? They have dual stage clear in a rattle can for 20-30$ (if you were not aware, learned this myself last year).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I actually clean the sealing surfaces down to bare aluminum with a 3M type plastic wheel (2nd pic shows partially completed) to get rid of the rubber residue that is actually hard. Then I hand scotch pad these surfaces with Dawn detergent to smooth them.

Too bad things didnt go well on the chroming. Thats actually a challenge as we found out at Lexus when we started offering factory chromed alloys. Takes serious money to do right, so if anyone wants that, send it to the pros at Stockton Wheel or similar but be leery of a local shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah I finished with 3 coats of clear - I guess they dont look good enough that you can tell! 😂😂 I have used the Dupli-Color wheel paint system many times and have always been pleased with the durability. Its a primer, color (Premium Silver is a very close match), and a clear. On my Cruiser which actually sees offroad use, i have mashed the wheels against stumps and pushed through brush so hard it left mars but did not break the paint.
I also bought a super high end clear from Easton for a wheel project but after they shipped it I changed directions. Some day!

PS - I actually had a can of 4k clear in my hand yesterday and opted to go with what I knew worked. What did you think of it, or did you try it, I guess is my question?
 

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no no, they looked so good I didn't want them messed up when Jr drips like 3 drops of premium gas on the back rim. I have watched a ton of videos on guys doing 4k rattle can work. its hit and miss. from your pics, you would prob hit a home run with it. whats not hit and miss is its actual 2 part hardened paint that resists gasoline & solvents.

I bought a high efficiency top feed gun a few years back and try to do as little rattle can action as I can. it makes my index finger hurt thinking about all those coats :)

should prob add a caution for all the kids reading. 4k, aka 2 part paint, the fumes will destroy your lungs and hurt you bad. 100% need a 3m respirator, even if painting outside. goggles to mix, tyvek suit so overspray is not absorbing through your skin, respirator required **
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, that's good advice. I used a pricey 2-part epoxy primer on the Supra's battery tray repair. Nasty stuff, but apparently sticks like crazy.

So, I've actually abused the Dupli-Color wheels and they stand up pretty well. Some were done 7 years ago and that car is parked outside every day. It's beginning to show weathering now but otherwise unscathed from tens of thousands of miles and a winter/summer outdoor environment. I recommend this. I'm always careful to let them cure before having tires mounted of course.
 

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When you stripped the wheels, were they almost polished underneath? I stripped a set of white package '89 sawblades and they were basically polished. Looked great as a polished wheel with some buffing and touch up to complete the look.




Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Locking hubs

Like this? Seems to be somewhat common in Japan or at least I've ran across quite a few pictures originating from there.

I thought about maybe trying to polish mine up cause I like the rims. That center cap looks awful and after seeing Doug's I'm leaning towards repainting them like he did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, the center cap is problematic for me as well. My LandCruiser wheels were originally clear over machined aluminum and the center caps must have taken forever for Toyota to figure out a perfect match color. So when I refinished mine, I opted to spray both wheel and center cap a uniform silver alloy color. Looks better than a mismatched wheel and plastic cap ever would, IMO. I'll look forward to posting them on the car out in the sunshine so you can get the full effect. If my tires would ever get here. Cough.
 

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holy shit is that just a polished aluminum surface I am looking at ?

man I have 2 extra rims.....Im going to start polishing one up at some point bc that looks dope af. But I would just paint the center caps, and maybe the inset webs flat black.

where are those tires haha...what is it like 8am in Idaho
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm going to go get them at the UPS distribution center. They've been delayed twice, then last night they did not arrive and I got a notice the could arrive today....or tomorrow..... So I called UPS and said "enough - leave them at the warehouse now that you've carved out two more days when you may or may not get them here" Sheesh. Now it will be a push to get them mounted and balanced, where it was going to be a relaxed plan. Argh.
 

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Always get disappointed when a vendor uses UPS because, of all the shipping services, UPS is always the most likely to: 1) deliver latest in the day, 2) have the longest shipping time, and 3) be delayed by a day or more. And of course, they don't deliver on Sundays.
 

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holy shit is that just a polished aluminum surface I am looking at ?
Yup. A couple of quicky courses of sand paper (very light) then on to some aluminum safe buffing compounds.

A lot of the truck guys around here do it because they can get the unpolished rims cheap second hand and buff them out. There are plenty of videos on youtube if you feel weird about doing it without some better guidance.
 

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Yup. A couple of quicky courses of sand paper (very light) then on to some aluminum safe buffing compounds.

A lot of the truck guys around here do it because they can get the unpolished rims cheap second hand and buff them out. There are plenty of videos on youtube if you feel weird about doing it without some better guidance.
i have some buffing wheels and sticks of some sort of compound that Ive used on plastic, but that was on my bench grinder motor. this could be an opportunity to buy some good tools --random orbital polisher etc

do they clearcoat after polishing ...or just wax ? seems like paint would have a hard time sticking to a mirror surface but then again the aluminum is (possibly) opened up / without oitsxide layer and the paint may molecular bond to that.... someone with like 6 synapses needs to advise on that.
 
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