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Just fixed my window switch and thought I'd share. Couple things to help get started:
Next part is by far the most difficult, and the one Faye calls out in her video I believe. Note, before removing it make sure to put a mark on one side on the chassis and plug (white plastic) so you know which way it goes back together. The fitment on the plug to the switch chassis is VERY tight. I used a small plastic blade/prybar used to take apart consoles and game pads to pop one side up over the notch on the plug. Then I stuck two of the small screwdrivers in there on either side of the notch to open up a channel and keep it open (if you don't it'll snap back down when you work on the other side). Repeat on the opposite side (it'll be an even tighter fit) and I used some pliers to pull it out. Took a pretty good amount of force to get it moving but once the notches clear you're good to go.
Here's a shot of it apart. The only problem was corrosion on the grounding contacts of the switch, that's it. I scrubbed all the metal bits with IPA and a toothbrush, tested continuity with a multi-meter, reassembled and was good to go.
During reassembly the little copper pieces can only go in one way (one side is smaller) so don't fret if they fall out and you didn't catch how they were placed.
Super simple fix it's just a PITA to separate the chassis from the plug.
- Check out Faye's video for some good visuals. She swaps it out for a part that I wasn't able to get anymore though
- This part does work as a replacement and is the easiest path. I actually got one of these but I'm an idiot and had the window lock on and thought it didn't work so I ended up fixing my original. The harness plug fits kind of loose in it but should be ok considering it doesn't really move
- Get yourself some long, very thin screw drivers or picks. Ones for working with electronics or taking apart consoles/game pads should work well
Next part is by far the most difficult, and the one Faye calls out in her video I believe. Note, before removing it make sure to put a mark on one side on the chassis and plug (white plastic) so you know which way it goes back together. The fitment on the plug to the switch chassis is VERY tight. I used a small plastic blade/prybar used to take apart consoles and game pads to pop one side up over the notch on the plug. Then I stuck two of the small screwdrivers in there on either side of the notch to open up a channel and keep it open (if you don't it'll snap back down when you work on the other side). Repeat on the opposite side (it'll be an even tighter fit) and I used some pliers to pull it out. Took a pretty good amount of force to get it moving but once the notches clear you're good to go.
Here's a shot of it apart. The only problem was corrosion on the grounding contacts of the switch, that's it. I scrubbed all the metal bits with IPA and a toothbrush, tested continuity with a multi-meter, reassembled and was good to go.
During reassembly the little copper pieces can only go in one way (one side is smaller) so don't fret if they fall out and you didn't catch how they were placed.
Super simple fix it's just a PITA to separate the chassis from the plug.