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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
7,014 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
lol... its not really boat gas. its just pump gas, but its 87 octane. i tell everyone to do this who complains about paying for expensive premium... and someone actually followed thru with it !

actually, this all came about because he launched his WRX hard core and burned the clutch. so the clutch has been progressivly getting worse. its gotten to the point that once the car reaches positive manifold pressure, the clutch begins slipping. before it had gotten this bad, i threatend him that i would remove the WG arm from the flapper so he could boost his car and beat on it. well, today, he actually pulled over at the gas station, remove the actuator arm from the flapper and filled up w/ 87 octane. the car stinks when it runs, like a lawnmower, and the exhaust is notably louder... and slower. but the clutch doesnt slip now!

so, if you need to limp around in your car because your clutch is on its way out, or you are just sick of paying out the ass for Premium... disconnect your WG and let the flapper blow open and avoid building boost. this will allow you to run you car NA and get by.

for the guys still on CT's, there is just an E-clip holding the WG arm onto the flapper. just use a small screwdriver and put it in one of the notches of the E-clip and pry it off. needle-nose pliers might help too.

for the guys running externals, just remove the top half of the diaphragm housing, pull out your 0.5bar or 1.0bar spring, or whatever is inside holding the valve shut, and reassemble the external w/o the spring.

your WG will blow open wider than it would when running under boost and youll be able to run all-motor and save a some money on gas.

this also works well if you have just installed a new clutch and want to avoid boosting or running the car hard or building too much power. you wont have to constantly concentrate on NOT boosting during the clutch break-in process. you can just drive teh car and not think about it and it wont boost and build too much torque.

this also works for those of you who have just rebuilt your motor and are in the break-in process. you want the friction so the rings can create a mating wear surface on the bores, but the less cylinder pressure you have, the less blowby and oil dilution you will have during this initial break-in process.
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