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So I just finished getting the engine back in the car after installing the CD009 and cleaning everything up, re-sealing the oil pan, new coolant lines, etc., and what do you think is still having a slow drip? My dang oil return flange on the turbo. I can't seem to get away from this. Now that I stumbled on Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker (which I used to seal the oil pan), I was wondering if I can use this for that flange? It's good for 500F and has a great reputation, but was curious if anyone used it for this or has any opinions about doing so. I'm using -10 AN flanges on both turbo and block and I assume that paper gasket just isn't doing its job. I just had my driveway redone last year and I really want to avoid dripping on it.
 

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Yes, you can use it for that. I've sealed everything with that stuff and it works damn good. I've even sealed a few v160's with it that I've rebuilt and they're all still leak free to this day.

It's all about the prepping of the surface if you want a long lasting seal in my experience.
 

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I wanna go fast!
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As long as your surfaces are clean and properly prepped, most FIPG products will be adequate for that location. (Black RTV, Toyota FIPG, Right Stuff, etc.) I have used all 3 on my supra as well as numerous other cars without issue. The key is surface prep and the proper amount. Also keep in mind heat range and rigidity once cured depending on the application. Oil return really doesn't get hot enough (unless hard racing or something wrong) to ruin most FIPG products. Blue or grey RTV would even work in that area but black is probably the "correct" product for the application.

One question though. I'm not using any FIPG on my oil return. Just a gasket. Are you certain your mating surfaces are true and your fastener torque is correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I "believe" them to be true, but haven't gauged them or anything. I'm going to pull the turbo off tomorrow and give both surfaces a proper cleaning. I guess I'll give the Right Stuff a shot. I did put my IR gun on the flange and saw a little over 400F after letting the car idle for a while. It's closer to 500 than I would have wanted, but it's worth the try.

The tube says you can put the parts back into service immediately, but because of the hot temps this will experience, do you think there is any benefit to waiting additional time?
 

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Dude, stop over-thinking this and seal the flange up already. Clean the surfaces, spray them with brake cleaner, apply sealant - profit.
 

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I wanna go fast!
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The tube says you can put the parts back into service immediately, but because of the hot temps this will experience, do you think there is any benefit to waiting additional time?
I would wait a solif 15 minutes. You want it to set up before you start pumping oil through it. If it's warped (which I believe it to be) then running it before the sealer sets will contaminate your patch.
 

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I use it on all my racecar stuff, it works great. Let it set up for a couple minutes before tightening it to spec.
 

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Are you guys just using the Permatex with no gasket?

I have a thin gasket, and was thinking about coating both sides with the Permatex black for superior oil resistance.

I have had no luck using just a thick gasket. They shrink, then the bolts get loose, then after tightening, they still seep a little bit. Not talking about big leaks, just a PITA. This is one of the most problem areas I have ever seen. Those gaskets all leak a little eventually, I guess it's the extreme heat.

Al
 

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Are you guys just using the Permatex with no gasket?

I have a thin gasket, and was thinking about coating both sides with the Permatex black for superior oil resistance.

I have had no luck using just a thick gasket. They shrink, then the bolts get loose, then after tightening, they still seep a little bit. Not talking about big leaks, just a PITA. This is one of the most problem areas I have ever seen. Those gaskets all leak a little eventually, I guess it's the extreme heat.

Al

Have you tried using Toyota FIPG?
 

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Are you guys just using the Permatex with no gasket?

I have a thin gasket, and was thinking about coating both sides with the Permatex black for superior oil resistance.

I have had no luck using just a thick gasket. They shrink, then the bolts get loose, then after tightening, they still seep a little bit. Not talking about big leaks, just a PITA. This is one of the most problem areas I have ever seen. Those gaskets all leak a little eventually, I guess it's the extreme heat.

Al
Do you mean the gasket directly off the turbo? Some companies are using O rings there now. OCD makes a nice return flange that is O-ring. Another possibility is using the gold Permatex RTV. It seems to work well as well, without a gasket.

STeve
 

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Have you tried using Toyota FIPG?
No, I have not. The bad part about sealants is that is not an easily accessible area to be able to scrape all the old stuff back off later. Scraper does not fit up in there. Turbo might have to completely come off.

As it stands right now I have to at least take off the IC pipe and compressor cover, then work on it while not touching the exposed turbo blades. If I have to take any more parts than that off, I'll just let it seep a little.

Al
 
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