Supra Forums banner

701 - 716 of 716 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #701 ·
I still chuckle at the thought of comparing my 'project' to yours, which is perhaps best illustrated by my running tally, updated moments ago after ordering the struts.

View attachment 259578

Oddly, in the mid 80s, I was a pro car audio system builder / installer, back when a man's worthiness was measured by the size of his subwoofer cabinets. My only goal in this dept is to swap the OEM head unit back in.
You've come out way better than me. I was double that ($4000) out the door when I bought the car and I still trailered it home. It ran and drove but I wouldn't drive it 30 miles at night not knowing much about it. It's a cool car. I like it. I wish I could find a good dash for it. The best I've found so far was a shadow grey dash for $750 shipped via Greyhound to me. Then I had neck surgery and forgot about it. 😂😂😂
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #706 ·
Passenger rear KYB OE rear shock was installed yesterday. My arms are so tired. Drop your end links! It took me forever to realize I needed to hammer that bushing out, even though I've read it countless times on this forum.

I have one more shock to go and then I'll put the car back together and start on my AFR gauge.
Pretty sure driveshaft or differential needs serious love, last time I drove the car I felt a serious vibration. My kids also confirmed the vibration was serious.

I didn't take pictures I was covered in grease and pissed off. I did my wife's rear wheel bearing, rotors, and brake pads two days ago. My arms are jello.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #708 · (Edited)
What bushing needs hammering? I don't recall doing that.
The rear lower shock mount has a little brass bushing you need to get a hammer and punch or a bolt and hammer it out so the KYB will fit in the lower [__] because until you do that the KYB G-Excels are wider than my OEM shocks and won’t fit in the lower mount. You will struggle but you only need to hammer the bushing out maybe an 1/8 or a 1/16th towards the rear of the car:



259694




as far as I can tell these are OEM shocks I’m replacing that have never been replaced. They were shot.



259695


more pics

259699


Didn’t fix my problem, fishing weight next up
259700


259701
 

·
90T
Joined
·
665 Posts
ahh, yeah, the knuckle bushing. With the Tokicos they just need a little prying.

So your hatch cable has stretched beyond 8mm. That's pretty amazing. Drill a small hole in the center of the fish weight in the split, then crimp it down around the cable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #710 ·
ahh, yeah, the knuckle bushing. With the Tokicos they just need a little prying.

So your hatch cable has stretched beyond 8mm. That's pretty amazing. Drill a small hole in the center of the fish weight in the split, then crimp it down around the cable.
The PhamMD 10mm MK3 Hatch fix for sale soon @3p141592654. It's stretched pretty bad I'm almost where I need to be in terms of actuation but it just doesn't trigger the latch just yet.
Definitely struggled with the knuckle bushing, knowing full well it was there and reading about it on this forum numerous times and still, in the pissed-off, heat of grease covered anger, strut in one-hand. Spring + spring compressors x2 + ratchet god awful heavy combo in another hand - Yeah I forgot about that and was prying with pry bars in all the wrong ways until I remembered. I took a punch and hammer and just knocked it out some.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #711 ·
So, to recap: I have to use a spring compressor to get the rear struts out and then use the same spring compressor to reassemble the strut, spring, and upper mount in reverse order to reinstall. What a huge pain in the ass to also remove the back interior plastic.

259815


259816


I’m able to compress it and remove it as one unit

259817


knock the knuckle bushing out

259818


I was never able to reinstall the complete strut and spring as one unit, it would not clear. Shock first, dust boot, compressed spring, upper mount loosely in place. Straighten it up, get it in place, decompress spring, jack it into place. I could never get an assembled strut, spring(compressed) and upper mount to reinstall as one unit the same way I was able to remove it. Head scratcher.

259819


I put it all back together already and used it twice to grab groceries.

With these new LED taillights I’ve installed I need to both bypass the lamp fail sensor cleanly and I need to get an LED compatible blinker flashermajig because I have the hyperflashers but nom nom the LED taillights ❤
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I dealt with the rear shocks, springs, hats, end links, etc on my '89 last summer. AND that same metal bushing BS. We didn't talk to each other for several months after all of that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pham

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #713 ·
I dealt with the rear shocks, springs, hats, end links, etc on my '89 last summer. AND that same metal bushing BS. We didn't talk to each other for several months after all of that.
Absolutely. I did one side earlier this week and got thoroughly pissed off learning the process. But For the driver side, I never worked on it for more than 15 minutes at a time and took lots of deep breaths. Someone asked why I was using a spring compressor but with the car way way in the air and the end links dropped I could never get the whole unit to come out unless I compressed it. Maybe if I had a second person helping me to stand on the rear knuckle...

I just had the car aligned not too long ago so I wanted minimal disassembly. It turned out well.

Car drove great 👍 Huge improvement in the ride. My rear shocks were gone. I’d be driving in on my bumpy road bang bang and now it’s smooth.

259834
 

·
90T
Joined
·
665 Posts
I recalibrated my lamp fail sensor for LED stops and Tails. The recal part was easy, just need to solder in a bigger sense resistor proportional to the lower current, but the characteristics of the LED lights make the sensor sometimes trip when you hit the brakes due to the faster rise time of the current. I found a combination of capacitors across the sense wires that fixed it. I have posted the info here.

I'm replacing my tails with these very soon, so I exoect I will have to again recalibrate the sensor.

259825
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
Discussion Starter · #715 ·
Changed wheels for a bit so I can get this OEM set refinished finallythis set of staggered MKIV fitment 17” Gram Lights. I had an issue with brake fluid on my shop floor that stemmed from a brake caliper crush washer not properly seated, so.... might as wheel swap wheels!

260016


guys I’m packing up my shop and moving to a place that has no shop :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
Changed wheels for a bit so I can get this OEM set refinished finallythis set of staggered MKIV fitment 17” Gram Lights. I had an issue with brake fluid on my shop floor that stemmed from a brake caliper crush washer not properly seated, so.... might as wheel swap wheels!

View attachment 260016

guys I’m packing up my shop and moving to a place that has no shop :(
Dude I know the feeling both of my cars are at my dealership.. I work on them when I can.. Hopefully I can get one home soon.
 
701 - 716 of 716 Posts
Top