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PHR STREET KIT!!! need help asap

1935 Views 17 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  sidwin
ok everyone. here's the scoop. Im looking into single turbo systems for my auto. I was debating wether i wanted an Sp57 or a PHR street kit. I wanted to know the best bang for the buck, and my eyes led me to the street kit. For 3800 bux, it seems like a great deal. Paired with an aem ecu to top it off. The question is, if i wanted to stay on stock fuel and a stock tranny, is it possible to spray a small shot of nitrous ( about 50-75) and still maintain the turbos durability, since it's such a small turbo. I wanted to be in the 600 rwhp range w/ nitrous, and maybe if i get a 2800 rpm stall, it would be perfect for the track, and with nitrous it could be possible to hit 10's. How well do you think the phr street kit will hold together with nitrous? how bout the sp 57? any thoughts or HP figures that i could expect w/ race gas and nitrous? any help WOULD be much appreciated.
TIA. regards,
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well the sp57 is a better kit it compares to the PHR Stage 1 kit if you plan on upgrading to a bigger turbo get the phr stage 1 or sp57 kit then !

but for the money that phr street kit is hard to beat and is designed to run on your stock fuel system and to use the maf sensor and can give you up to 510 RWHP they claim .

only thing is i think they claim you need to use a fmic!

as for the nos best to ask dusty and jarret about this im sure they can give you some feed back !

mailto: [email protected]

mailto: [email protected]
thanks for the 411 ranger. I want to stay on the stock tranny for a while until im able to purchase a built one. Im trying to buy a house too ;) so in the meantime, i know the phr street is a good kit...but didn't they have some sort of upgrade for the street kit? i dont see it on their page anymore...maybe its not available....
also ranger, 5400 is a lot. i could buy phr street for 3800, and get phr's street fuel systme when it's released, or use that extra 1500 bucks to buy the aem ecu, or even towards an sp tranny, im looking for 10's that's good enough for me. Plus, if im able to spray on top of the 500 + rwhp, it would ALMOST make as much power as an automagik T78 supra, plus spool insanely fast for the street.
i know someone else can help. Please anyone?
give it time most guys dont reply till mid day!;)

I have the PHR street kit in my car. I hit full boost around 3800 rpm. is where u can see it. The setup comes with a cast steel manifold. I also have some pics at too.

My car has the following mods that made the 570 rwhp STD run:
TRD Twin Disk with Lighten Flywheel ( Peter Blach)
Greddy FMIC 3 row (Thanks Mr. Billcollector Wong)
Greddy Type R bov (Thanks Mr. Billcollector Wong)
Greddy Boost, egt, fuel pressure 60 mm gauges (Thanks Gary Huang)
Greddy Power Extreme Exhaust
BCC from (Dimitri)
3 inch KN Intake ( Jarrett )
PHR Street Single Turbo ( Jarrett )
PHR Fuel Bypass ( Jarrett )
PHR Radiator Hardpipe ( Jarrett )
PHR FMIC plate (Dusty)
PHR High flow pump running 12v ( Jarrett )
EGR block off plate (Rich Baratta and Mohammed Alheriaz)
HKS AFR ( Jarrett )
HKS EZ ( Jarrett )
Added afterwards
Wideband o2 gauge (Rich Baratta, Dimitri and DIY)
HKS VPC (Oolan)

please note that this was done on RACE GAS, 27 psi, NO VPC. Please note that the dyno numbers are STD and I don't know what the SAE ones are. If you have any questions please feel free to email me [email protected] or jarrett [email protected] or dusty.

This car has been a joint venture with MVP and PHR. I prototyped the kit for them. Jarrett worked out many problems that we had. 2 months later i have the car back and their are a couple of minor things to work on. My car needed the VPC. Rerouting the bov back through the intake didn't help me much. The HKS AFR didn't solve it completely either eventhough HKS stated that the EIDS system would correct the problem :( . I originally had an APEX AVC-R and APEX AFC. My car stalled horribly but the VPC fixed it like black magic :)

I also had to get the PHR high flow pump because my car was running god awfully lean. Also please note that to obtain the level of RWHP the stock fuel system had to be modified. Fuel Dampener bypass is a must and I would recommend everyone to upgrade your pump with either dual stock, walbros, bosch or PHR pumps. Please don't try to skip key points. I am also getting my injectors balanced and blue printed. I run fuel injector cleaner through my car atleast twice a year. I also got the Fuel Pressure gauge to make sure I don't mistake my car feeling faster from because the car is running to lean. I would also recommend an aftermarket Fuel Pressure Regulator. in the days to come, several people will be having stock fuel rails capable of placing an aftermarket FPR on them ( I keep my boost on the street to 12 psi. Please don't go out and get this kit and try to run 27 psi on stock fuel system when you haven't taken the proper safety measure. I wouldn't want anyone to go burn a motor just because my car dyno at a certain power. Toyota engineers designed this car with lots of safety margin. We push that margin to the extreme because we want to pinch and save. Then we wonder why the car doesn't perform.

I spool pretty quick. Full boost at 3800 rpm. The racegate is vented to atmosphere which makes it a tad bit loud. A part of the support bracket had to be removed to allow the racegate to vent to atmosphere. I am in the process of getting a heat shield fabricated or maybe ceramic coated from Jet-hot 2000. Please remember like any other project the entire cost will be more than you think it is going to be. $3800 is to start with for just the kit, then you have to add on other cost like, fuel pump, vpc, etc. For example, my car needed the VPC and pump. I could have lived with the car stalling 10% of the time, but that would have annoyed me and taken the pleasure out of driving. So please budget properly.


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Very imformative post. I like all the information you provided without trying to be biased towards PHR or SP.

Sounds like you had a little bit of trouble with the stalling and fuel problem...but I am glad to see you all worked it out... PS-besafe and enjoy your car.

I would also seriously talk to SP and maybe even give the Greddy a look.

I agree with Sid, you probably won't get away with only spending the base price of a turbo kit. Figure on buying a vpc. And keep a transmission in your budget for if (when?) it starts slipping. (Mine slipped a little at bpu and a LOT on a single.)

Buy a SP57 kit if you want a very nice ready made kit based on a header. The PHR Street kit is fine but for a much more reasonably priced cast manifold setup of comparable quality look to (A cast manifold is fine for 500rwhp - it really depends on how much power you desire to make.)

In summary: if you want 500rwhp go with directedengineering's setup and save yourself a bundle of cash (remember you can always sell your kit to someone else later if you do decide you want more power.) If you want upgradeablity of your kit by just swapping the turbo go with the SP57.


P.S. IMO, only companies that try to obscure their results use STD correction. There is a reason the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) developed an updated correction standard.

P.P.S. *Don't* upgrade without having a "just in case" fund.
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I hate you! Just kidding. You pretty much hit the nail on the head. Too many guys go out there and spend money on a turbo kit and think that is all that it is going to cost them. Even the most complete kit like SP's you will still need to spend a couple of extra bucks on a dyno to properly tune the car because each car is different and especially if you want to be able to keep the car performing right. Then you need the proper gauges as indicators because the butt dyno doesn't cut it.

You can upgrade the PHR street kit to plus for an additional cost that is supposed to give you 50 more rwhp, I just ran out of funds and the power is enough for me for now ;) As for the SP kit yes you can start off with a sp57 and grow from there. Dimitri's is offering a pretty competitive package price for their kits as well as is by far the cheapest place for electronics on the net. So either way, I honestly don't think you can't wrong with DirectedEngineering, Sound Performance and PHR.

Thanks melvin for your comment. I just want to call it the way I see it in an unbiased manner. I don't get endorsed PHR or MVP so therefore I am just your typical Joe Consumer and want others to learn from my experiences of going single and not fluff it in anyway that the next person will might endanger their car and waste their money.

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i greatly appreciate everyone's posts, from ranger to steve and sid. Thanks guys. Right now it's a matter of $$ for sure. i could opt for a T78 and spend that extra money on fuel, but with that i would need a built tranny and a vpc..cuz let's face it guys, im pretty sure, with the associated fuel mods ready, no one is going to keep the boost down on that turbo, especially when a venom fly's by you on the freeway. haha. but, would anyone from the sp camp like to step up? will i need a vpc for the sp57 just like the phr street? tia
You'll probably need a vpc with any single.

is this true direct enginerring selling basic single turbo for around 2k ?
I just checked it out yesterday
Some people have went through and gotten it work with some major modifications to the intake system like extending it. But I look at a vpc as a good thing if you are going to try to break the 500 rwhp. I made 574 STD rwhp with it at 14:1 A/F but I am pretty sure I could have picked up another 15-20 rwhp with the VPC.

HKSUSA said the EIDS system should solve the problem and I read up on the circuit used and it doesn't seem that complicated. WOT your MAF is reading -5 volts then when you shift or blow off the voltage drops too quick to zero. Therefore the ecu dumps more fuel to compensate going lean for a sec. EIDS makes u got 5,4,3,2,1 and should resolve the problem, but Jarrett said he was not able to stop the stalling completely. He did say on my car that he was able to reduce the stalling to happen 10% percent of the time.

If you are trying to save money and get a greddy t-78 for 3800 from SP engineering and get a complete fuel system by putting the parts together yourself for $1200 bucks, why not spend the extra $650-850 for a vpc without harness and have the car running 20 psi and killing everything insight?

Good Luck with you project,
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you can contact dimitri from He can answer all of your questions. I know he has a complete kit with turbo, bov, lines, manifold, wastegate, midpipe and other stuff for about 3200. his email address is [email protected]

If you're considering a cast manifold..

you should be aware of this thread . There's some controversy concerning the HP potential of a cast manifold. Obviously the cost savings is great, the HP potential is a bit of a question mark. Only in the Supra world does it seem like you'll hear people say things like "only 550RWHP" so before dismissing a cast manifold we need to realize that 500+ RWHP is a ton :D I spoke to Dimitri a little while ago and was pretty excited about this kit. Right now I'm not as sure. Most of all what I want is a streetable power curve with decent HP on real pump gas. I'm willing to purchase the supporting things I'll need liek fuel and electronics so which turbo system I choose is up in the air. Anyway, for those considering a kit using a cast iron manifold I'd suggest reading the thread linked. There's at least one of Dimitri's kits getting installed by someone on this board soon - hopefully we'll all get to hear the full details soon.

P.S> I thought that PHR's street kit used a header? I didn't realize it was cast - is that still the case?
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well my kit should be on in a few weeks
it will be made up of a cast manifold ,Turbonetics Racegate /wastegate ,custom mid-pipe that will allow me to use stock cat's or unbolt it and use a rmm DP with no modifications

i will be running an sp63 turbo on it!

if you can hold off i can let you know how it goes and tell you if its work it or not!
I have the PHR street kit and yes it does use a cast steel manifold. Dimitri's Kit uses the same thing. I put down 440 rwhp on pump gas 14 psi and MAF. Cast Steel manifold aren't as powerful as the header setup, but like u said, 550 rwhp is plenty for me. and to view some pics of the car. You can see some of my dyno sheets there. Steve Vache and myself both have cast steel manifolds. Steve's kit is Turbonetic manifold and racegate and he doesn't have any issues I know of and he spanks a lot of cars with his SP auto tranny. If you want a full header setup you have to go with either SP or RPS or Greddy or HKS or PHR stage 1 and above

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