PHR STREET KIT!!! need help asap

Hi,

I have the PHR street kit in my car. I hit full boost around 3800 rpm. www.sidwin.com/supra/dyno.jpg is where u can see it. The setup comes with a cast steel manifold. I also have some pics at www.sidwin.com/supra/single too.

My car has the following mods that made the 570 rwhp STD run:
TRD Twin Disk with Lighten Flywheel ( Peter Blach)
Greddy FMIC 3 row (Thanks Mr. Billcollector Wong)
Greddy Type R bov (Thanks Mr. Billcollector Wong)
Greddy Boost, egt, fuel pressure 60 mm gauges (Thanks Gary Huang)
Greddy Power Extreme Exhaust
BCC from DirectedEngineering.com (Dimitri)
3 inch KN Intake ( Jarrett )
PHR Street Single Turbo ( Jarrett )
PHR Fuel Bypass ( Jarrett )
PHR Radiator Hardpipe ( Jarrett )
PHR FMIC plate (Dusty)
PHR High flow pump running 12v ( Jarrett )
EGR block off plate (Rich Baratta and Mohammed Alheriaz)
HKS AFR ( Jarrett )
HKS EZ ( Jarrett )
Added afterwards
Wideband o2 gauge (Rich Baratta, Dimitri and DIY)
HKS VPC (Oolan)

please note that this was done on RACE GAS, 27 psi, NO VPC. Please note that the dyno numbers are STD and I don't know what the SAE ones are. If you have any questions please feel free to email me [email protected] or jarrett [email protected] or dusty.

This car has been a joint venture with MVP and PHR. I prototyped the kit for them. Jarrett worked out many problems that we had. 2 months later i have the car back and their are a couple of minor things to work on. My car needed the VPC. Rerouting the bov back through the intake didn't help me much. The HKS AFR didn't solve it completely either eventhough HKS stated that the EIDS system would correct the problem . I originally had an APEX AVC-R and APEX AFC. My car stalled horribly but the VPC fixed it like black magic

I also had to get the PHR high flow pump because my car was running god awfully lean. Also please note that to obtain the level of RWHP the stock fuel system had to be modified. Fuel Dampener bypass is a must and I would recommend everyone to upgrade your pump with either dual stock, walbros, bosch or PHR pumps. Please don't try to skip key points. I am also getting my injectors balanced and blue printed. I run fuel injector cleaner through my car atleast twice a year. I also got the Fuel Pressure gauge to make sure I don't mistake my car feeling faster from because the car is running to lean. I would also recommend an aftermarket Fuel Pressure Regulator. in the days to come, several people will be having stock fuel rails capable of placing an aftermarket FPR on them (www.directedengineering.com). I keep my boost on the street to 12 psi. Please don't go out and get this kit and try to run 27 psi on stock fuel system when you haven't taken the proper safety measure. I wouldn't want anyone to go burn a motor just because my car dyno at a certain power. Toyota engineers designed this car with lots of safety margin. We push that margin to the extreme because we want to pinch and save. Then we wonder why the car doesn't perform.

I spool pretty quick. Full boost at 3800 rpm. The racegate is vented to atmosphere which makes it a tad bit loud. A part of the support bracket had to be removed to allow the racegate to vent to atmosphere. I am in the process of getting a heat shield fabricated or maybe ceramic coated from Jet-hot 2000. Please remember like any other project the entire cost will be more than you think it is going to be. $3800 is to start with for just the kit, then you have to add on other cost like, fuel pump, vpc, etc. For example, my car needed the VPC and pump. I could have lived with the car stalling 10% of the time, but that would have annoyed me and taken the pleasure out of driving. So please budget properly.

Thanks,

Sid
www.sidwin.com

I agree with Sid, you probably won't get away with only spending the base price of a turbo kit. Figure on buying a vpc. And keep a transmission in your budget for if (when?) it starts slipping. (Mine slipped a little at bpu and a LOT on a single.)

Buy a SP57 kit if you want a very nice ready made kit based on a header. The PHR Street kit is fine but for a much more reasonably priced cast manifold setup of comparable quality look to http://www.directedengineering.com (A cast manifold is fine for 500rwhp - it really depends on how much power you desire to make.)

In summary: if you want 500rwhp go with directedengineering's setup and save yourself a bundle of cash (remember you can always sell your kit to someone else later if you do decide you want more power.) If you want upgradeablity of your kit by just swapping the turbo go with the SP57.

Steve

P.S. IMO, only companies that try to obscure their results use STD correction. There is a reason the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) developed an updated correction standard.

P.P.S. *Don't* upgrade without having a "just in case" fund.

Steve,

I hate you! Just kidding. You pretty much hit the nail on the head. Too many guys go out there and spend money on a turbo kit and think that is all that it is going to cost them. Even the most complete kit like SP's you will still need to spend a couple of extra bucks on a dyno to properly tune the car because each car is different and especially if you want to be able to keep the car performing right. Then you need the proper gauges as indicators because the butt dyno doesn't cut it.

You can upgrade the PHR street kit to plus for an additional cost that is supposed to give you 50 more rwhp, I just ran out of funds and the power is enough for me for now As for the SP kit yes you can start off with a sp57 and grow from there. Dimitri's www.Directedengineering.com is offering a pretty competitive package price for their kits as well as www.german-autowerks.com is by far the cheapest place for electronics on the net. So either way, I honestly don't think you can't wrong with DirectedEngineering, Sound Performance and PHR.

Thanks melvin for your comment. I just want to call it the way I see it in an unbiased manner. I don't get endorsed PHR or MVP so therefore I am just your typical Joe Consumer and want others to learn from my experiences of going single and not fluff it in anyway that the next person will might endanger their car and waste their money.

Sid
www.sidwin.com

Some people have went through and gotten it work with some major modifications to the intake system like extending it. But I look at a vpc as a good thing if you are going to try to break the 500 rwhp. I made 574 STD rwhp with it at 14:1 A/F but I am pretty sure I could have picked up another 15-20 rwhp with the VPC.

HKSUSA said the EIDS system should solve the problem and I read up on the circuit used and it doesn't seem that complicated. WOT your MAF is reading -5 volts then when you shift or blow off the voltage drops too quick to zero. Therefore the ecu dumps more fuel to compensate going lean for a sec. EIDS makes u got 5,4,3,2,1 and should resolve the problem, but Jarrett said he was not able to stop the stalling completely. He did say on my car that he was able to reduce the stalling to happen 10% percent of the time.

If you are trying to save money and get a greddy t-78 for 3800 from SP engineering and get a complete fuel system by putting the parts together yourself for $1200 bucks, why not spend the extra $650-850 for a vpc without harness and have the car running 20 psi and killing everything insight?

Good Luck with you project,
Sid
www.sidwin.com

If you're considering a cast manifold..

you should be aware of this thread . There's some controversy concerning the HP potential of a cast manifold. Obviously the cost savings is great, the HP potential is a bit of a question mark. Only in the Supra world does it seem like you'll hear people say things like "only 550RWHP" so before dismissing a cast manifold we need to realize that 500+ RWHP is a ton I spoke to Dimitri a little while ago and was pretty excited about this kit. Right now I'm not as sure. Most of all what I want is a streetable power curve with decent HP on real pump gas. I'm willing to purchase the supporting things I'll need liek fuel and electronics so which turbo system I choose is up in the air. Anyway, for those considering a kit using a cast iron manifold I'd suggest reading the thread linked. There's at least one of Dimitri's kits getting installed by someone on this board soon - hopefully we'll all get to hear the full details soon.

P.S> I thought that PHR's street kit used a header? I didn't realize it was cast - is that still the case?