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Discussion Starter #1
ok....Trent cant answer since i already wasted enough of his time....LOL.

just wondering if the overall consensus is in favor of adding a piggyback since there are some risks with running lean? anyone have any advice or experience they can share? cant it make the engine run hotter increasing likelyhood of BHG?

current ENGINE mod list.......
k and n intake
full turbo back 3 inch piping to a tanabe hyper medallion...NO CATS
walbro fuel pump
fluidyne Rad

just had complate engine overhaul (blown HG) with STOCK TOYOTA OEM HG and stock head bolts torqued to 65.

250 WHP.

other than adding a piggyback, the only other thing would be a boost controller. not planning on upgrading the injectors or anything else.
 

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25psi = 14" brakes :)
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Well, the money spent on the overhaul with no MHG was not a good choice IMHO.
The piggybacks are the best way to go. AEM EMS is a nice deal, but your going to spend 500.00 or more to tune your engine after you spend 2000+ to buy and install your new standalone.
With a piggyback, either the MAP ECU or Greddy Eman E-01 combo, you can fall back on the stock TCCS and drive home if anything happens.
Research the benefits of all 3, look at your budget and what you want to acomplish and buy what's right for you.
I have the Greddy, and it works great. The LCD screen is aweome, and being able to tune anywhere w/o a laptop along for the ride is a very nice feature. (And I have a nice laptop, I just don't like to have it along for the ride all the time.)
When I do want to tune with the lap top, hooking it up is as easy as sliding the passenger seat forward, and plugging it it.
Then I can watch all the parameters on my 17.1" widescreen, and have fun with the system. However, most of the time, I don't want my laptop along, so the Greddy works out perfectly.
Having controll of spark advance is a nice feature too. I'm still playing with that, and have not decided what settings I like best.
Another feature of the Greddy that I like is expandability. It has the ability to run additional injectors for future fuel needs. (VS buying larger injectors than the 550's I'm running now.) You can monitor just about every parameter, the only trick is hooking them up. (No harder than any other piggyback, or the AEM EMS.)
Good luck.
 
M

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Discussion Starter #5
ok trent..........your allowed to respond now. what is ADJUSTER talking about 500 plus 2000?? what was the piggyback we discussed? im getting a liitle confused.

please remember everyone, im new at this, so you need to dumb it down for me. i am considering a piggyback that goes for about 350. nothing dramatic.........Trent, what exactly was the model and how is it different that what ADJUSTER above just described?
 

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wastegate hose is pulled
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Spend your money on something like intercooler hardpipes instead. At the level of mods you have a piggyback or any engine management is going to add unnessicary complication.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
ok. like what kind of complications?

how much will it cost and what HP gains will intercooler hardpipes get me?

im leaning towards piggyback because i run really rich.....and with no cats i cant stand the smell. plus the bonus of extra power and extra fuel mileage is a good thing.
 

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Sorry in advance for the threadjack... but...

Adjuster, how big is the screen on the E-01? I've been looking all over for specs on that, with no luck. I'm trying to figure out if it would fit in the dash, under the climate controls. I'm not fond of things stuck on the top of the dash... anything that looks added isn't good, IMO.

Second choice is rebuilding the driver's side sunvisor with this in it... :)
 

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25psi = 14" brakes :)
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you need more boost. (To lean out your motor.)
Here is the "easy" way to get it.
Looking at your mods again, you have the basics for a good 300hp motor, with no other computers needed.
You will want to check this setup out on a dyno, or use a wideband 02 sensor to make sure your not running lean. When you tune on the dyno, go for one full point richer than your target. On the street, you run about 1 point leaner than on the dyno. I don't know why, you just do.
So, here are the mods.
Go to Home Depot or Lowes. buy one metal 2" 90 degree conduit sweep. (They really are 2.25ID.)
You only need one of them.
This replaces you upper flat plastic IC pipe. The part left over replaces your lower cast alloy pipe between the turbo and the FMIC. Here is a pic of what it looks like on top. You will need to cut some of your stock hoses to make the lower one fit as it's longer than the stock elbow. I just shoved mine up in there farther, and it worked great from the turbo down, and shortend up the IC side about 4".
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/89722/8.jpg
This mod alone will give you 2psi more boost from the same settings. The stock pipes are that restrictive.
The next mod is the air screw mod. This will allow you to flow more air, and lean out your car, but not completly as the TCCS still tries to adjust all the time. (but this allows you to run more boost before FC stops the fun.)
If you don't have a boost meter that goes to 25psi yet, don't do this mod yet. Adding boost is easy. Shim your WG and your done. (Do a search on this mod, it's a whole other post.)
The AFM mod is easy. Remove your AFM. Then remove the electronics. There are 3 small phillips head screws. Do not clean up the parts that go into the AFM. With that part removed, your AFM is now just metal, and you can use carb cleaner on it if you want to. Don't damage the metal screen. If you do, your AFM body is screwed up.
Now, there is a small metal plug over an adjusting screw. You can see the screw below the main AFM chamber. You want to drill out the plug so you can access the screw. It is about 1/4" thick. Once that is out of the way, use a common screw driver to back out the air screw as much as you want to move the FC point up. (All the way out is about 15 to 17psi of boost. (Actually airflow that the TCCS see's and that works out to that much boost pressure on a stock CT.) Once your done adjusting the screw, put the electronics back into the AFM body.
Changes made here will allow more air into your motor all the time, and since the TCCS "sees" less air, it leans out your fuel trim accordingly. (This is why you want to tune on a wideband, don't run lean, it will ruin your stock HG or entire motor.) Ar the very least, a good EGT to keep tabs on your temps so you are not running lean. (Anything under 1450 after the turbo, or 1550 pre turbo is OK in my experiance.) Your stock TCCS is going to run lean around town. It actually jumps between rich and lean all the time trying to keep your fuel economy the best, and makes your engine run well as a result. A good 02 sensor is key here. (Not wideband, but stock.)
FC is a good thing. It keeps you from pushing your motor past the fuel limits, so experiment with the air screw settings to find one that works for you. You may want to check your 02sensor if your still running rich. (You will run rich at WOT, all stock Supra's do unless they are running some very high boost pressures. Readings richer than 10:1 are common. Try and tune for 11:1 on the dyno, it will give you 12:1 on the street, and that is perfect for a long living motor.)
Good luck, and have fun. BTW, the first time you hit 15psi on a stock CT, your tires are going to light up like you can't belive, so do your testing away from other traffic :)
With your walbro, and 3" exhaust, I belive your engine should be able to handle this no problem. Keep it under 17psi however. :)
 

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The piggyback we were talking about is the AFC or AFR. If tuned correctly, you can rid yourself of some of the rich smells and gas mileage problems you have. Since you indicated, you don't want to go much further with modifications, I think IC pipes will be a waste as would anything else as you had already indicated you only want to get it set up correctly now. With an AFC and having it tuned correctly, you can gain some HP and will have a much better running car. EMS and E-manage is not necessary in your situation.
 

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wastegate hose is pulled
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Well, if you are running rich just cruising around you need to fix some issue with your car. Maybe an O2 sensor or something? A good running car with no cats still reeks, so I wouldn't go by smell.

I can't give you a hp number but hardpipes are a good upgrade, probably equivelant to leaning out the mixture with a piggyback of some sort. The best part is all you have to do is put them on and the wash your hands and you're done! No tuning, no readjusting for variations, no dyno time etcetera...
 

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25psi = 14" brakes :)
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Screen is too large for the dash on the Eman. I have it mounted to a camera window tripod head, and clamped to the dash pad. It does not look too bad, and is easy to re-position and move around. Also the camera mount is 22.00, made of alluminum alloy and very high quality. (Available at any camera store, just look for a window mount.)
I'll try and get a photo of it one of these days.
Trent, the mods I outlined will give this guy what he's looking for, and cost less than 50.00 to do.
Assuming he will just shim the WG to 14psi and leave it there:)
That is another post however.
 

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I agree.... you shouldnt be running rich at all with just a Fuel Pump Upgrade....... A Fuel Pump just supplys the Injectors... the injector pulse is what supplies the Fuel..... that should remain the same. YOU DONT NEED A AFC UNLESS YOU CHANGE YOUR INJECTORS. If you are running the stockers dont worry about. Get some HP's. Get a BC. Get something reasonable. AFC will do you no good in this situation... it would just be a temp fix to something else that is going wrong with your car.

To answer your question

"Piggyback a good investment?"

Yes it is.... if you plan of running over 450rwhp...... IMO.


Trey
 
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Discussion Starter #14
i think if you plan to do the lexus afm and 550 cc injectors, a piggyback fuel computer will be benificial, but also, if you want to improve gas milage a little, and with the piggyback fuel computer you can make some extra power

i remember becauseican gained like 24 hp from tuning the piggyback


also, PM me about where you are in Jersey, maybe we can meet up
 

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You have a stock HG. Detonation will kill it. I have had experience where I ran lean and blew out 2 OEM HGs. Control your fuel ratios by getting a piggyback, and get it tuned professionally, or get yourself a wideband to tune yourself.
 

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Dr Wheelspin Rh.D.
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Adjuster, how big is the screen on the E-01? I've been looking all over for specs on that, with no luck. I'm trying to figure out if it would fit in the dash, under the climate controls. I'm not fond of things stuck on the top of the dash... anything that looks added isn't good, IMO.
I thought about the visor idea but it would be hard to focus on it while driving down the road. It is pretty thick so it would probably stick out a little from the visor.



 

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boost freak
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SupraTrey said:
...YOU DONT NEED A AFC UNLESS YOU CHANGE YOUR INJECTORS...
i have to disagree. every car is different. some run crazy rich, some don't. sounds like his car could benefit from some sort of fuel control....
 
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