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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone. I recently purchased a 94 supra with quite a few mods, including single turbo and fuel however it has a stock auto and converter so "laggy" doesn't even begin to describe its lack of grunt from 0-60mph.

Recently dyno'd 450rwhp with VPC/GCC. The tranny is getting tired as shown on the dyno when it nailed the limiter on every shift.

CURRENT SETUP:
WOTM race header, Tial wastegate, Turbonetics T72, HKS large FMIC
Stock 2JZ-GTE motor, compression 154-157 psi
Titan Motorsports Billet Adjustable Cam Gears
HKS VPC/GCC
Boost Logic Billet Crank Dampener Pulley

WOTM Fuel System with 750cc injectors
4" HKS Titanium Cat-back Exhaust, WOTM 4inch DP and midpipe
Stock Toyota Automatic, stock converter
Bad valve seals.

GOAL- Low 10's, at least 135 mph on Drag radials. 95% street car, road trips, drive to work daily if need be.

PLAN-
Send Tranny to BL for full build up. I am told it will support 800rwhp.
Large tranny cooler(s)
PI 3800 stall converter
AEM ECU, 5 bar map (raise rev limiter, shift at ~7600rpm)
Remove head, rebuild, better valve springs, 264 cams
Small dry shot if necessary to spool turbo only.

Dyno: (1.3 bar, yes it is very rich)


Thanks for any insight.

Trent
 

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Life begins @ 30psi....
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Trent -

I like what you got so far but my suggestions would be this to the plan:

1. dump the T72 and put DBB67 on it. The 67 on pump is usually more then enough to take 99% of the folks you will run accross. On race gas and drag radials you would be hard pressed to lose a race especially from a dig once the trans and converter goes in.
2. Get the AEM tuned by a professional on pump and on C16.
3. Make sure to install a relay to properly lock up the converter with the AEM. Wire in a manual lock up switch also as a backup.
4. Monitor trans temps from the line coming out of the converter!!!! as well as do the (2) coolers (do both with fans IMHO wired to a switch)
5. forget the Spray. not needed at all with a 67MM to run low 10's

My car is going to probably very similar to yours when your is done. My car has already gone 10.39 with a VERY soft tune, 27psi of boost, and full weight (3800lbs). The trans and converter upgrade is going to make it much more fun to drive for sure. Low 10's should not be hard at all, with a decent 60ft and good amount of boost it may even go a high 9!!!

Thats my .02

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #4
3. Make sure to install a relay to properly lock up the converter with the AEM. Wire in a manual lock up switch also as a backup.
4. Monitor trans temps from the line coming out of the converter!!!! as well as do the (2) coolers (do both with fans IMHO wired to a switch)

Bob
Bob, thanks a lot. Can you give me more info or links on the relays and manual override switch?

On the trannies do you control the fans using the AEM or just use a manual switch?

To start with I am going to try th t72 since I already have it. But I might end up going smaller as you recommended.

Thanks again,

Trent
 

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HighCompression+Boost=Win
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I had a switch on mine and it worked great when I was Auto. I would go with two coolers both with fans if I was still auto. Also wrap your transmission cooler lines that go next to the DP so they don't get roasted by the downpipe. From what I have seen the built auto's are hit and miss at around 800-850 whp. Some will last others won't. If I was still auto I would want to stay around 600-650whp, that's just me though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had a switch on mine and it worked great when I was Auto. I would go with two coolers both with fans if I was still auto. Also wrap your transmission cooler lines that go next to the DP so they don't get roasted by the downpipe. From what I have seen the built auto's are hit and miss at around 800-850 whp. Some will last others won't. If I was still auto I would want to stay around 600-650whp, that's just me though.
Damn, the more I read the more I am tempted to just put in a 6 speed...
 

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HighCompression+Boost=Win
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That's what I ended up doing, I should have just looked for a 6 speed to start off. I wanted a local car so I didn't really have many options. My car was faster when I was auto, but I wouldn't go back now that I have a 6 speed. The swap is a PITA, not all that hard just takes time.

There are a lot of people that have had good luck with the boost logic built trannys. I just wanted to be able to drive the car in the mountains and not worry about the transmission getting hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
what clutch are you using and what power levels? I only ask because the only downside I see to the 6 speed is the expensive clutches and I hear they need to be replaced often (1x per year) if you drag race alot.

Also if you have any info on the relay setup for the auto please LMK.

Thanks,
Trent
 

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HighCompression+Boost=Win
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I have an exeddy triple disk and wouldn't recommend it for a street car (my car is a street car). It is loud as fuck, it sounds like you have rod knock when the clutch pedal is in. Engagement is almost like a light switch on/off. It holds 1100 lbs of torque though. I would go for a twin disk or rps single if I was going to get another one. If you keep the auto rear and have a harsh clutch it is hard not to chirp the tires at every stop light. I stalled my car like 15 times the first 20 miles I drove it in town.
 
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