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Discussion Starter #1
I've never really trusted the factory alarms... so I am wondering what brands models you would recommend. I really don't want a bunch of bells and whistles... but I WOULD like keyless entry. I guess I'll need some selonoids to open/close the locks... mine seem to be broken. When I unlock the drivers door the passenger door does not unlock.

I just want a really good alarm...any recommendations would be great. I've heard good things about Clifford...

Thanks
 

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clifford to me sucks now!
they went down hill

best to invest in a viper( yes i know dei owns clifford but they seem to back up there viper alarms more than there cliffords!)

crime guard
crimstopper
codealarm
are all good alarms i have the crimeguard CG745i3 in mine!

this is some of the info on it!

2 extended-range remotes with 3-car operation
anti-code-grabbing protection
level 1 and level 2 carjack protection
SecureCode Valet system
door, hood, and trunk protection
starter disable
multi-tone siren
dual-stage shock sensor to provide a warning chirp if your vehicle is bumped lightly and a full siren blast if it's hit hard (a $24.95 value)
$2,500 vehicle-theft guarantee covers your insurance deductible
Transmitter Verification to tell you each time you start your vehicle if someone has attempted to program additional transmitters into your system
parking light output (relay built-in)
personal panic with ignition on or off
emergency back-up battery system to keep alarm going, even if your car battery dies or a thief disables it (uses standard 9-volt battery, included)
alarm activation can be limited to five events
LED status indicator to warn thieves away
two remote outputs
starter disable
built-in dome light relay and door lock relays
multi-tone siren
lifetime warranty
 

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Just so you know, some cars are designed so that if the door is unlocked from the driver's side, it doesn't unlock the passenger..

However if you unlock from the passenger door, they BOTH unlock. If your power lock switch works normally, then they're working just fine. :)
 

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easy test put you key in the driver side lock and turn it twice it should unlock both doors!
Originally posted by ninja6o4:
<STRONG>Just so you know, some cars are designed so that if the door is unlocked from the driver's side, it doesn't unlock the passenger..

However if you unlock from the passenger door, they BOTH unlock. If your power lock switch works normally, then they're working just fine. :)</STRONG>
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input...

My locks do not work from the lock switches inside the car. Not sure if its a relay.. or a fuse... or the actuators are shot. I guess I'll find out when I get inside the door. Is there any trick to removing the door panel?

Thanks!

TD
 

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front door panal removal!
1.remover (4)scres along the bottom of the door panal
2 remove(2)screw caps from the front edge of the door panal and remove the screws behind
3.remove (1)push pin style fastner from the front edge of the door panal
4.extract (1)screw from the trim ring around the door pull handle and door lock. remove
5.extract(1)screw from uper front corner of the cavity
6.remove(1)screw cap from the arm rest and extract the screw behnd it
7.remove(3)push pin connectors from the rear edge of the door panal(push the pins in to remove them)
8.pull upward and outward to remove the door panal
 
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Alright guys...

Spent most of the weekend dis-assembling the car and putting in pin-switches and mounting sensors. My hands have so many cuts it looks like I have been wearing barbed-wire golves! Anyway... most of the hard stuff is done. Let me tell you though... the pin switch for the trunk was an absolute bitch! I also know for a fact now that the car has NOT been in a wreck! I have seen every panel in the car... no non-factory welds!

Sorry to ramble. The one item I have left is to cut the alarm into the ignition circuit. My question is... which wire is +12 during cranking and running... but zero when off? Also I need to know which one is +12 during cranking only. I know I need to check it with my multi-meter... but I am working alone and it would be helpful if I knew where to start as opposed to hit and miss.

I have found the main connector that goes to the ignition switch. It has about 8-10 wires in it.

Thanks for all the help.

TD
 

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Typically the red wire is +12V all the time, and the yellow wire is +12V ignition only. If you have a local car alarm shop nearby, they may be able to help you. If you bought your alarm from a store, call them up and ask if they have a short guide for your vehicle, I'll bet that they do. The one I went to had a program that listed every connection and the wire colour on a lot of cars, and it saved me a whole lot of guesswork. Good luck!
 

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lol why did you do all that all the connections are under the dash even for the trunk sensor?????????

constant 12v =white & white and red
ignition=black and white
starter = black and red
trunk pin switch =L green (-) located at the 15 pin connector in the dr side kick panel <------dont kick yourself in the head! ;)
Originally posted by Turbo_dude:
<STRONG>Alright guys...

Spent most of the weekend dis-assembling the car and putting in pin-switches and mounting sensors. My hands have so many cuts it looks like I have been wearing barbed-wire golves! Anyway... most of the hard stuff is done. Let me tell you though... the pin switch for the trunk was an absolute bitch! I also know for a fact now that the car has NOT been in a wreck! I have seen every panel in the car... no non-factory welds!

Sorry to ramble. The one item I have left is to cut the alarm into the ignition circuit. My question is... which wire is +12 during cranking and running... but zero when off? Also I need to know which one is +12 during cranking only. I know I need to check it with my multi-meter... but I am working alone and it would be helpful if I knew where to start as opposed to hit and miss.

I have found the main connector that goes to the ignition switch. It has about 8-10 wires in it.

Thanks for all the help.

TD</STRONG>
 
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Well...

I used the stock door switches... but the trunk switch didn't seem to be working, i.e. the interior light doesn't come on when it's open. I like heavy duty pin switches better anyway!

Besides... I enjoy dis-assembling my car!!! hahaha

Thanks for the color codes! Now I can button it all up and be done with it.

Thanks fellas

TD
 

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glad i could help but check the light out is it working mabe the contacks are in need of cleaning!
Originally posted by Turbo_dude:
<STRONG>Well...

I used the stock door switches... but the trunk switch didn't seem to be working, i.e. the interior light doesn't come on when it's open. I like heavy duty pin switches better anyway!

Besides... I enjoy dis-assembling my car!!! hahaha

Thanks for the color codes! Now I can button it all up and be done with it.

Thanks fellas

TD</STRONG>
 
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