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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've noticed a wierd problem that some of my friends have with there Supras aswell, when it's damp outside the car runs shitty as hell, it can be something like this:

1. Start the car up, no problem at first, idles well...
2. Give it some throttle and bam it hesitates and stalls...
3. Next startup attempt and the car might stall again directly...
4. Start it up again and this time give it some throttle, idles very bad, if I let go of the throttle it stalls 100% or will be down to 200rpms maximum...
5. I drive the car for a while and it seem fine but as fast as I decelerate the check engine light comes on and as fast as I push the accelerator the car hesitates but then drives ok again and the check engine light will come off...
6. After some driving there will be no problem at all and I can stop and start the car as usual with no problem, also resetting the ECU sometimes fixes the problem right away but I think this is realy accidental only...

Now something I've noticed is that my Apexi TT get's realy fucked up readings on it's A/F sucky as display, seem that i'm running pig rich as soon as the check engine light comes on...

Now my own personal guess is that the AFM gets screwed up when it's damp outside, any thoughts about this?..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was about to check it but my locks are all frozen so I need to defrost em first, I'll post em when I get em...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for replying Bishop!

I'll try to defrost my lock tonight (insomnia you know) and check the codes, now not to sound stupid but exactly what are the coilpacks?..
 

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Dr Wheelspin Rh.D.
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They provide the bulk of the spark for the spark plugs. They are what you plug the spark plug wires into, the three plastic pieces on top of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah ok that was what I thought, I'll check the codes and see what that shows, again thanks for helping out man...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok finaly got a little warmer outside and checked the engine codes for the first time =) whoola! nlucky number 31 as expected =) and number 51 the switch signal thingy, now the AFM I understand but what about the switch signal? It says something about the TPS aswell so I think maybe that one is toast too, any sugestions?..
 

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i would also check the spark plug wires. if it gets humid/moist, moisture can creep through the boots on the wires, and weaken the spark, cause hesitation, and rough idle. there is a product that canadian tire sells, ignition dry and go. try that, though it will only fix it temporarily.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'll rip out the ignition wires and check them, see what that does but there is still the fact about the codes, they seem to be very related to the issue, thanks for the advice though di_rosa I'll be sure to check it out, belive me...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok so I went and bought a multimeter yesterday to check the TPS and AFM, didn't get to do it yesterday but I will today hopefully, anything I should think of? Seem pretty straight forward but you never know =)...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok I finaly got to check the TPS and AFM with a multimeter and both seemed to work fine so I guess I'll have to check the ignition coils next, one thing that pussled me though was when I checked the TPS, checking VTA - E2 at shut throttle gave me the readings I was after, so did checking VTA - E2 and VC - E2 during WOT, but I couldn't get a reading on IDL - E2 when using the thickness guages no matter what I set my multimeter to, it just showed "1" and nothing more, is this ok or am I doing something wrong?..
 

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Dr Wheelspin Rh.D.
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51 usually means your TPS is out of alignment. Since your TPS didn't pass that means you need to adjust it. Moving it just a very very tiny amount makes a huge difference in how the car runs.
 

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Unclipped Fury
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i had the same problem. Almost down to the pinpoint. I replaced the AFM...and the car worked mint. sometimes the optics within the AFM get really messed up. You should replace the afm with a used one.,..beacause toyota wants like 600 for a new one. Or go MAP from PHR.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I will go MAP ECU from PHR later this year so the AFM will be gone but back to the TPS =) I was just out checking the TPS (what a bitch it is to loosen, the bottom screw is very well placed, NOT!) so I hook up the multimeter to the IDL and E2 and hidiho no continuity what so ever, so I think oh well let's adjust the son of a bitch, well guess what, no continuity no matter how I turned the TPS, so I guess the TPS is realy fucked now and that will sertanly explain my verry weird idle that I have had since I bought the car =) Anyway last thing I did was assemble everything again and start the engine and it wouldn't idle, so I unplugged the TPS and hey yaa same thing...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
mikkee123 said:
i had the same problem. Almost down to the pinpoint. I replaced the AFM...and the car worked mint. sometimes the optics within the AFM get really messed up. You should replace the afm with a used one.,..beacause toyota wants like 600 for a new one. Or go MAP from PHR.
I bet mine is realy messed up aswell, I'll swap that one out aswell, thanks for the replys guys!..
 
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I also had the same problem. spraying all electric wire joints where they go into the various sensors and the various electronic boxes, distributor with wd40 fixed it like a dream.
 
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