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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This install would have been a breeze if I had just known a few key things missing in the instructions. And because the instructions were written to work for every single application, the information that was there was difficult to find quickly. So here is a write-up geared toward an internal wastegated mk3:

First, find a good place to mount the actuator (the cube with 3 vacume ports on one side, and 1 on the opposite side). I attached mine to the strut tower bar. Attach the vacume hoses per these two diagrams:



I attached the #1 port to a the vacume hose going to the bov (using a normal "t"), but any manifold line will work.

Route the wiring harness to the cabin. I made a small cut to the rubber boot where the ECU harness passes through, and pushed the cable through. With the glovebox off, you should be able to pull the harness into the cab. You'll need to decide where you want to mount it -- I used a location under the heater controls. Wiring is very easy, everything clips right in except for two wires -- red and black. The black is ground, and the red wire needs to go to a switched power source. I tapped probbed the radio harness with a voltmeter and turned the key on/off until I found one.

Now, make sure the dip switches are set up correctly. They are labeled 4 3 2 1 from left to right. All should be up, except the last switch (labeled #1).



To set up the controller: Chances are you bought this used, so you will need to get the controller into "P1" mode. With the car running, hold the power switch for maybe 5 seconds until the display changes to P1. Now make a full throttle run in 3rd or 4th gear to get the max stock boost.

Push the power switch twice and it will go into "P2" mode. Make another full throttle run just like above. When you're finished, the display should read as boost gauge. If you get an EE message, try again. If you keep getting "EE" on the display, hold the overtake boost button for 5 seconds (top left button).


Now push the large volume knob in, and it should pop out. Turn it to set your desired base boost level and wait until the profec beeps before you push the volumn knob back in. Since the profec reads in kg/cm^2, I've made a little conversion table:

<TABLE BORDER=2 WIDTH=100><TR><TD>kg/cm2</TD><TD>PSI</TD></TR><TR><TD>0</TD><TD>0</TD></TR><TR><TD>.1</TD><TD>1.42</TD></TR><TR><TD>.2</TD><TD>2.84</TD></TR><TR><TD>.3</TD><TD>4.27</TD></TR><TR><TD>.4</TD><TD>5.69</TD></TR><TR><TD>.5</TD><TD>7.11</TD></TR><TR><TD>.6</TD><TD>8.53</TD></TR><TR><TD>.7</TD><TD>9.96</TD></TR><TR><TD>.8</TD><TD>11.38</TD></TR><TR><TD>.9</TD><TD>12.8</TD></TR><TR><TD>1</TD><TD>14.22</TD></TR><TR><TD>1.1</TD><TD>15.65</TD></TR><TR><TD>1.2</TD><TD>17.07</TD></TR><TR><TD>1.3</TD><TD>18.49</TD></TR><TR><TD>1.4</TD><TD>19.91</TD></TR><TR><TD>1.5</TD><TD>21.33</TD></TR><TR><TD>1.6</TD><TD>22.76</TD></TR><TR><TD>1.7</TD><TD>24.18</TD></TR><TR><TD>1.8</TD><TD>25.6</TD></TR><TR><TD>1.9</TD><TD>27.02</TD></TR><TR><TD>2</TD><TD>28.45</TD></TR></TABLE>

Next turn the small ratio dial. This will set your high boost level (overtake boost) as a ratio of your normal boost.

Moving to the next small dial, set the time you want the overtake mode to be on (up to 30 seconds if I recall correctly). The high boost mode is normally just used for short periods of time. But if you want to run in high boost for extended periods of time, hold the overtake boost button down for over 2 seconds (a small light will light up next to the OTB switch). Press that button again to go back into normal mode.

The last dial is called offset. If you make a 1.5 kg/cm2 run (21.3psi) and the profec reads 1.5, but your boost gauges reads 19psi, you can turn the offset dial to adjust the profec to match your boost gauge.

The profec has a warning feature which will light up and LED and sound an alarm when the boost exceeds your set level. If the overboost happens for more than a second, the profec will default back to stock boost. To adjust the warning alarm, press the overtake boost button and the power button at the same time. Then press the overtake button repeatedly until the display indicates the pressure you want to have the alarm at (I set mine for .2 kg/cm2over my overtake boost pressure).

To confirm your settings, press the power button for two seconds. You should see Ac (for actuator-type wastegate), then the normal boost setting, then the high boost setting, then the time for the high boost, and then the warning alarm boost setting.


If you turn the car on later, and get a CH display, that means a setting has been changed while the car was off. Press the power button once to see what setting has been changed, and press the power button again to accept the change.


links:

Diagrams
http://greddy.com/Technical/profec_frame.htm

Operation manual
http://greddy.com/technical/pdf/ProfecA.pdf
 

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Clean little install there, I like it! when i get my profec b, thats where it going!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I wanted the vacume lines to be as short as possible, and mounting it up on the strut tower was as close as I could get it without coming too close to the exhaust side of the turbo.

And yes, the profec a is no longer in production, but I know of three guys who recently installed them and all had minor issues with the instruction manual.
 

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ma71-
Where can we find the check valves. Someone told me I could use the same check valves as the ones used in home aquariums. IS that correct. ????

Is it possible to draw a stick picture to show howand where the check valves and the t-fittings fit in their respective locations??

Thanks .
 

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SUPRASTANGER507mgte said:
ma71-
Where can we find the check valves. Someone told me I could use the same check valves as the ones used in home aquariums. IS that correct. ????

Is it possible to draw a stick picture to show howand where the check valves and the t-fittings fit in their respective locations??

Thanks .

you dont need any check valves to install the profec, unless i am reading your question wrong

as for T fitting I think your refering to having to tap into a vacuum source?
Just buy a 25 cent plastic T from the auto parts store and T it into any vaccuum line, The vaccuum source the the BOV is an easy one to do
 

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Nice! Maybe throw some air filters in there.
 

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Zero said:
you dont need any check valves to install the profec, unless i am reading your question wrong

as for T fitting I think your refering to having to tap into a vacuum source?
Just buy a 25 cent plastic T from the auto parts store and T it into any vaccuum line, The vaccuum source the the BOV is an easy one to do
Thanks ZERO,

One more question, Is the charge vacuumn the same as the one you mentioned - source from BOV??? I know where the rest will go I belive.

OFcourse I am referrring to the # 2 routing (CHARGE PIPE) according to the diagram above.
 

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SUPRASTANGER507mgte said:
Thanks ZERO,

One more question, Is the charge vacuumn the same as the one you mentioned - source from BOV??? I know where the rest will go I belive.

OFcourse I am referrring to the # 2 routing (CHARGE PIPE) according to the diagram above.

no no no

ignore that diagram its slightly off

you have three hoses,
one goes to your wastegate, one goes to the compressor (its a nipple on the turbo above the wastegate you cant miss it, this is where the charge pipe hose in the diagram should go), then the last nipple (the smalles one) on the controller is for the vacuum sorce, you can tap it anywhere
bov hose works fine
 

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so the number 2 and 3 just go between the turbo nipple and the wastegate accuator? im glad i read this thanks for the write up.



turbo is O, wastegate is --{}


O_________2
--{}_______3



this correct?
 
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On your chart is shows .9 and 1 to be 12.8 and 14.2, what if your fuel cut would lie in between there and you can't acheive that absolute power your car can make? say boost cut for me 13.5 psi or so...what happens then?
 
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