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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Tomorrow I go get the 89 Supra. Today I went to get tire dollys to move the car around easier. Thank you Harbor Freight. I installed the A/C compressor and swapped out the compressor plate from the old 7m. Thankfully Toyota uses the same design for their compressor just different hose layouts. I had to cut and grind the bold that the compressor hangs from so the 7m plate sits flush. Some type of valve sticks out from the 7M plate. There is no way I'm going without A/C ever again after suffering through a Southern Summer. Now I just have to figure out a way to ground it and run power wire. I think I figured it out after making my brain bleed by reading schematics. Extend the ground wire and repin the power using the 7m connector. At least I hope that's right...
 

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Search around for replacement coasters for those dollys, heard they make a night/day difference with the smothness. Internet lore, I don't have any first hand experience but was researching it a couple of years ago when calculating storage space for my stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
IT'S HOME!!!!! I got the pleasure of playing "Where is that [email protected]#kin dirt coming from?!?!?!?!" with a WHITE car that has been sitting since 2006. Once I thought is was clean and I washed the soapy water off more came out of nowhere. Yep it was all stashed and compacted behind the trim pieces and tail light housing. It's going to need a new coat of paint because there are red stains in the clean coat. Things i need to order before dropping the motor in.

Headlights.. yes the PO took the headlights with him.... why? Looking at LEDs all the way around
Master clutch cylinder, braided line, and I already have the slave on the W58.
A case of Warsteiner
Brakes!!!! From the pedal on wards. Was planning on doing a ABS delete anyways
A set of used tired to roll the car around on.
A bottle of scotch
Piggy back tuner
Stereo system. I have a Clarion 400W APX4241 sitting here with a 12in sub. Need to pick up some 6x9's
Gauges... lots of gauges to light up the cabin making it look like I have a rave going on in there. Mainly boost, AFR, and voltage
Hookers and blow... wait... that can wait until after the car is running....


Tomorrow I will take more pics after the blood sacrifice and ritual incantations, I don't think a virgin sacrifice will be needed... for now..
 

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You're going to need a couple virgins bruh.

Looks like fun.

For headlights, Holly Retro-brights.

Definitely subbed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Land vehicle Car Vehicle Hood Automotive lighting


Door and fender have been replaced!
But the seats are toast. I doubt I can save them with the amount of rust and corrosion that's in there. Well I always did want to have a set of racing seats and looks like I'm going to have to get a set.
I also got keys made. After a half a can of pb blaster I finally was able to get the door locks to work and the ignition switch to turn. Where the AC came on and the wipers creaked accross the windshield and fuses blew.
I'm not kidding when I said the seats were bad....
Vehicle Car Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design

I'm looking at replacing the interior. Just too much wrong to save it.
 

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Ah wait till you've vacuumed the interior n taken stock. Those seats may clean pretty well depending on whats on them. Over the years I have grown to respect what a good upholyery cleaner can accomplish. Same w carpet. Bring carpet to a spray car wash and hang it on the floormat clamps and have a go. Mine were not bad, but now look sano and new. Plus you can wipe the bare metal floor pan with bleach, toss down some insulation n good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The seats metal frame has rusted out and it doesn't lock back. Even the brackets under the seats are rusted apart. The car has been sitting since 2006 collecting rain and plant life. Tomorrow I'm pulling the seats out to take up the carpet to see how bad the rust is underneath. If its bad I'll get some 12 guage sheet metal and my welder and patch up the rust holes and rubberize the underneath. The more I work on this supra the more this children's song goes around in my head... just changed a little bit

1 little.. 2 little.. 3 little thousand
4 little.. 5 little.. 6 little thousand
7 little.. 8 little.. 9 little thousand
10 freakin thousands gone...

When I get back to work I'm going to ask the paint guy what does it take to paint the interior plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I spent time today removing the back interior looking for rust. I found a couple of spots that are completely through. These are the worse of them all. My brother in law is going to help me repair the rust holes. After half a can of PB Blaster i finally got the driver seat to start moving, But the passenger seat is beyond my skill set to repair. The springs are rusted apart and i don't see any way to fix it. When I finally got the driver's seat working I stepped on the brake pedal and it was frozen in place. So I took the master cylinder off to see what was happening. I'm going to have to replace the brake booster and master cylinder because they both have rust inside of them. I've already ordered both. I'm not going to take a chance. And that is all I could get done with the time I had.


Automotive tire Tread Road surface Tire Asphalt
Tire Eye Automotive tire Wheel Tread
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Targa seals are ok. It was the windshield. As I was trying to carefully remove the trim with plastic trim remover to caulk the windshield..... the windshield cracked from top to bottom. My neighbors heard me cussing in multiple langauges. So today was a total waste of time to try and do anything because if it could go wrong it did.
 

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Ya autoglass is what I do for a living and can honestly say the Supra can be a pain. The butterfly clips that grab the end of the glass and go into the urethane,can be hard to release. Some techs might use a lot of urethane to hold them down to get the car ”safe to drive earlier” so they won’t fly off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Ya autoglass is what I do for a living and can honestly say the Supra can be a pain. The butterfly clips that grab the end of the glass and go into the urethane,can be hard to release. Some techs might use a lot of urethane to hold them down to get the car ”safe to drive earlier” so they won’t fly off.
As long as it doesn't leak and it is actually save to drive I'm all for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
With the windshield not longer leaking I can finally get started taking the interior out to clean to see if I'm going to stay with the original blue or swap over to a black interior.
I dubbed the car Rusty Nutts because of all of the rust I'm finding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
This is what I have done so far to swap a 2JZGE non-vvti into a MK3 using the 7MGTE ECU and wiring harness

The motor and transmission:

2JZGE non-vvti from a SC300. I used the non vvti motor because the 7M ECUs are not set up to run the VVTI solenoid.
7MGE Square motor mounts
2JZGE motor mounts adapters pre89
2JZGE fly wheel with ARP bolts
2JZGE W58 bell housing
7MGE clutch assembly Comp Clutch stage 2 with ARP bolts
W58 non ABS transmission
W58 clutch slave cylinder
W58 Shift fork

Motor and transmission are together waiting on me to finish fixing the body

Sensors:
Swap out the 2JZ knock sensors with the 7MGTE knock sensors
Swap out the 2JZ temp sensors with the 7MGTE temp sensors.
Swap out the 2JZ MAF for the 7MGTE MAF.
Swap out the 2JZ TPS for the 7MGTE TPS.

The rest of the sensor will be swapped over before I put the motor and transmission into the car. I'm still looking at how to convert/use the IAC.

To use the 2JZ alternator:
Extend wires from the 2JZ alternator to 7M harness. I used the 2JZ alternator wire that came with the 2JZ to reach to the 7M harness to be spliced in. I had to source two plugs from Ebay to make a patch harness.

To use 2JZGE AC compressor:
Swap the 7MGTE AC compressor plate for the 2JZGE compressor plate.
Cut/grind and re-thread the bolt the compressor hangs on to until the compressor plate fits. The 7MGTE plate has a valve that sticks out to the right.
Find a ground and splice the 7M plug onto the 2JZ compressor.

Ignition:
Swap out the 2JZ distributor with the 7MGTE CPS. The 7MGTE base will have to have a new slot drilled out to fit the 2JZ block
Reusing the 7MGTE coil packs and spark-plug wires.
Swap out the 2JZGE 330cc high impedance injectors with the 7MGTE 440cc low impedance injectors. This is because the 7MGTE ECU uses a resistor pack and is already setup to run the 440cc injectors and the stock fuel pump for the 7MGTE is I think 195lph.

From the reading I have been doing I'm not sure if this will run rich or how rich it will be. But once I put a mild turbo build (under 10psi) it should run normal.

Things that still need to be done

Swapping out the oil pressure sending unit and relocating it
Power-steering reservoir and cooler relocation
Electrical fan setup for cooling.
Battery relocation
Radiator
Cutting, extending, splicing, mutilating the wiring harness

Modifications I'm looking at and researching:
7MGTE COP mod.
EGR delete
VSV delete
1 piece driveshaft

Not much progress has been made engine wise because all of my time and money is going towards fixing the body to have a solid platform for the motor. The pace will be slow since I'm coming off vacation and have to go back to work.
 
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