[labrat1469]

4.... And after the windshield broke the bottle of Glenfidditch was gone too... I'm gutting the car right now to see what needs to be fixed, patched, replaced, or cussed at. Today the back seats and passenger seat came out and i discovered the mysterious black box under the passenger seat. Turned out to be a OEM amp. And i found about 50 cents.

 

[gothica]

I stand by my original response to this thread. I think we're currently probably < 1% on total beer.

Also, Props. I know how to curse (somewhat) in 4 languages myself. Comes in handy. Especially the lebanese ones, cuz I'm white as 2nd grade paper, so nobody around me understands that sh#t...

 

[labrat1469]

I grew up near a Hispanic neighborhood in Waukegan IL and lived in Germany for three years.
I agree on the beer. A 12 pack was to just get started the bottle was for Murphy's Law when it takes effect.

 

[labrat1469]

Took out the front and rear seats and the carpet. Luckily I did not find any holes in the floor boards. I also had to pull the wiring harness from the 88 NA door that I replace the bent 89 door. The lock went from a two wire config to a three wire config. When I was trying to strip the 89 door i pulled it's harness out and some clips then set it by my truck in the front yard. when I went back to strip more parts off of it some scrapper came by and took the door.. So now I have to order parts off of ebay to finish the door. I finally got the windows to roll up. I'm chasing electrical gremlins for the next few weeks. I bumped the door and something in the car beeps... The battery wasn't hooked up so I'm thinking the alarm is acting up. I need to find that module to see.

 

[Wreckless]

Took out the front and rear seats and the carpet. Luckily I did not find any holes in the floor boards. I also had to pull the wiring harness from the 88 NA door that I replace the bent 89 door. The lock went from a two wire config to a three wire config. When I was trying to strip the 89 door i pulled it's harness out and some clips then set it by my truck in the front yard. when I went back to strip more parts off of it some scrapper came by and took the door.. So now I have to order parts off of ebay to finish the door. I finally got the windows to roll up. I'm chasing electrical gremlins for the next few weeks. I bumped the door and something in the car beeps... The battery wasn't hooked up so I'm thinking the alarm is acting up. I need to find that module to see.

Once you reconnect power, use the key in outside passenger door handle and bump it in the 'unlock' direction three times. That disables the factory alarm.

 

[labrat1469]

Now that the dashboard is drying out it's starting to crack..... Now i know why the guy at work who does paint and body said that fiberglass will be my best friend,,,,

 

[labrat1469]

Spent part of the day replacing the brake booster and master cylinder. Cleaned up the grounding points in the engine bay. Then spent the rest before the rain busting loose rusted nuts, bolts, and knuckles. Of course I made the appropriate blood sacrifices to the Supra Gods. While cleaning the engine bay of debris I realized that the ABS unit is shot. The wiring is all chewed up from a rodent. I will probably do an ABS delete since the W58 transmission I'm using came out of an 88 without ABS and is not set up for the sensor.

 

[Ali_SC3]

After reading through @Ali_SC3's priceless thread, and having an enticing lead on a local built 7M-GTE longblock gathering dust, I'm actually working out the details on that myself.
The 2JZ-GE dizzy is used to get crank position for the Ali_SC3 ECU swap, so no need for that right away, and I'm 95% sure you could use the original 7M coils with the DS62 igniter re-wire. Mod the the dizzy to fit the CPS area under the PS reservior, wire in all the 2JZ sensors as needed for the ECU, figure out the TPS situation, use an Acura Legend or similar resistor pack to keep the 7M-GTE low imp injectors, re-do the injector wiring to match the 2JZ ECU, hybridize the harness for gauge cluster etc, and Bob's your Uncle. Using a USDM 2JZ-GTE ECU would require the matching MAF but that'd hypothetically be solid to ~500whp or so with no fuss, no muss, and some basic bitch low imp 550's.

It wouldn't solve the fundamental flaw of not having crank position measured from the actual crankshaft itself, so 'jitter' between commanded ignition timing and actual ignition timing would be flapping around in that +/- 2-4* window, but it'd be factory MAP, it wouldn't be constantly advancing timing into detonation like the 7M ECU, and the stock timing map is a lot less stupid. The base timing could be adjusted at the GE distributor, unlike the stock 2JZ-GTE sensors, and running

Wiring in the 2JZ-GTE's VR crank sensor would be hypothetically possible, since SR-Fab makes a 12 tooth crank trigger option for their hall effect sensor kit and the 2JZ-GTE non VVTi's crank trigger is 12 tooth. So one could hypothetically get just the timing belt drive gear with the 12 tooth wheel from SR-Fab and do your own fab work to mount the 2JZ crank sensor accordingly. Only homework there would be to verify the differences in tooth gap doesn't throw things off, and ensuring the sensor position matches the 2JZ-GTE's just in case that is somehow critical to the stock ECU despite it being a straight 12-tooth trigger.

I'd love to take a stock 7M-GTE longblock down that road and lean into it, just to see how many of the BHG/rod knock situations might have been exacerbated by the 7M ECU's poor timing strategy.

Hey @Wreckless , what you mentioned there is pretty much what I would do if I were to setup a 7M.
You can keep the coils but need the ds62 ignitor (you could reuse some of the mulitplex ignition wiring and add to it if rewiring stock harness). If you can fit vvti coils they take up less space but work the same as 7m coils. the 2jzge ecu might run off the 7m cps, but it may vary depending on how good your cps is I haven't tried it. I have used a 7m cps on a 2jzge so the distributor base should fit on a 7m worst case, there was a bolt hole difference though but was modifiable. Tps should be same the pins are usually set by direction of rotation so as long as you are using the tps that belongs to the harness you are good. When using the 7mgte engine it would make sense to keep the stock harness and make a jumper harness for the ecu. If you can ditch the resistor pack and get some newer high impedance 440s that would also be a good option unless you have a good set of mk3 440s.

You could also use a 2jzge harness and do the body plugs and extend different things. Alot of connectors are the same like IACV and I thought tps but not positive not as much experience with 7m harnesses, alot are probably not the same but you could merge the 2 harnesses and extend things as necessary just time consuming. I would say this is more work but may be worth it in the end, the 2jz electronics especially the 2jzgte jdm map base variety are very reliable and run very well. pretty much my go to for a reliable setup unless the project requires a standalone.

If I were swapping a whole 2jzge into a mk3 though I would for sure use the 2jzge harness and wire it to the 7m body, then in the future you can plug up all gte ecu's and even standalones for the 2jz.
OP I would recommend not using the 7m electronics on the 2jzge unless you plan to leave the 2jzge stock, I just don't think they work as well and are as reliable as the newer stuff is.

On a 2jzge you can also run the timing off the crank by using the gte crank trigger wheel and the newer oil pump.
You don't need it if you are only planning on using the stock gte ecu as it is very conservative tune wise, but if you are running a standalone it could it be worth it as they usually are not as good as picking up the signal in the distributor/cps because the crank signal has 24 teeth on a very small wheel going past a small magnet (24 teeth at cam = 12 teeth at crank x 2 revolutions) and the aftermarket ecus just arent as good as the stock ecu picking up the signal. For cam sync the dizzy/cps is generally fine as it is just 1 tooth registering every 2 revolutions.

I generally put in a 36-2 vvti gte crank trigger wheel so I can run a standalone with high accuracy or vvti head later.
That way the distrubutor still has the 12 tooth non vvti gte crank pattern (actually 24 teeth in the dizzy) and the one on the crank has the newer 36-2 pattern like the gte vvti/non vvti which also gives higher resolution to a standalone ecu.

Lots of ways to do it but for a reliable setup the stock 2jzgte ecu's are hard to beat.

 

[labrat1469]

Update:

Still working on the 89. With the weather being as crappy as it has been I don't get much time to go outside. What time I do have I have spent taking care of the rust that has developed in the trunk area. The previous owner used a spray on rubberize sealant to plug the small holes. I had to use my grinder with a wire brush to remove all of that stuff and found a lot of pin hole rust spots. I used some rust killer then sprayed on a couple of coats of cheap rattle can primer to protect the metal until I can get back to putting a light coat of body filler in the area then sand and paint.

The cabin area had mostly surface rust that was easily taken care of. Carpet is back in and the driver seat is bolted back in. As I stated before most of the water that came is the seats soaked up and the springs completely rusted away along with the sliding rails in the passenger seat. I'm using the fiberglass resin to fill in the cracks in the dash then I'm going to get a dash cover to place over the dash.

The car is going to need a new paint job. The paint on the bumpers are gone and the oxidation and contamination of the paint on the metal body parts is pretty bad. Lucky for me I work for one of the big three parts places that have a paint mixing department. Toyota paint code 043 is expensive. For the "cheap" Amazon priced base coat and clear coat is around $500. That's not including the primer. Then add on the cost of paying someone to prep and paint the car.

That has what's been going on since my last update.

 

[labrat1469]

Finally dropped the motor into the 89. Will post pics later.

 

[labrat1469]

The pics as promised

 

[gothica]

Looking good! - I like the 2jzge as a starting point there. From what I read, you can franken-engine that into a 2jz turbo later on if wanted. SC300 2jz's around here are pretty cheap - considered dropping that into our other MK3 but haven't got that one's engine noise sorted yet to know exactly what's wrong with it, so we'll see. Ex said she'd keep it if it was a manual, and you can find manual NA 2j's around here all day for not that much.

Now the real question - where we at on the 12 packs? I'm guessing 9-12 at this point

 

[sturi0_]

damn you bent the shit out of that core support 😭

 

[labrat1469]

Surprisingly it took less than three hours to have the motor dropped in. Jack up the front end, pick up the motor at an angle, the move the motor into the bay. Cuss, fight with the motor, and smash your hand a time or two. After I got the motor in I hooked up the started and turned the key. Thankfully the motor was not locked up after sitting for 10 years in a junk yard. Now the real work starts. In the past 48 hours I have spent over $700 on just parts... No beer just parts. No go fast parts just parts that were broken or rusted. No 12 year old single malt Scotch just replacement parts... The core support will be straightened out once I get time to work on it. Might use a slide hammer on it and pull it out then use a set of body hammers and dollies to finish straightening it out

As for the 12 pack count. I'm at 10. But that's also including body and paint restoration. I spent a few days with buffing compound and a buffer slowing going over the paint trying to get rid of the mold, contaminates, and oxidation that La Blanca Puta has picked up since 2006.

She's coming along nicely but still a long way from being back on the road.

 

[gothica]

LOL, just finish that drivers side rear bumper & then always drive in the right lane & you're golden - can stop now on the paint....

 

[labrat1469]

Front and back bumpers need to be sanded, primed and painted.But paint will be the last thing to be done. I'm trying very hard not to shade tree this rebuild. I want a car that will last longer than 5 years before finally giving up. I want to take the knowledge I gained from building The Grey Ghost and turn La Blanca Puta into something nice.

 

[labrat1469]

This thread just made my rewire job so much easier. It makes looking up broken wiring colors easier. Thank you SupraForged !!!

7MGTE Engine Wire Harness - A Complete Guide

I've been working on this for quite some time now. I made this as a thank you to the community, and I hope it helps some people out with their wiring. The plan is to update this as I can. There are some bits of information missing, such as connector numbers and some wires are not labeled. If you...

www.supraforums.com

 

[labrat1469]

Slowly but surely it's coming together..... It's about 75% wired up. I have to swap to 7M VSV from the 2JZ VSV. The fuel lines are attached. And I converted over from the SC300 distributor to the 7MGTE CPS with the IS300 wasted spark setup. So long 7MGTE humongous coil-packs and long spark plug wires. I spent a few hours pouring over TSRM to get the wire color code correct. I still have to run the coolant and vacuum hoses.

I will probably go back and re loom the wiring harness by getting rid of the old tape and plastic tubing from 1988. I've either cut the loom wrapping to move wires closer to the new sensor locations or extended the wires. The old harness is becoming a pain to move around.

Well that's as far as i got. The weather is pretty crappy this week so I might get a chance to work on it Sunday.

 

[labrat1469]

The monster lives!!! Now to find every leak and bad sensor. Will post vid of the first start up later.... Man it wasn't pretty....

 

[labrat1469]

As promised... The 89's first start up. I had to replace the TPS but its runs... BARELY!!! But it runs

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1180663645894796