Supra Forums banner

1 - 20 of 56 Posts

·
YotaMD.com author
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter #1

The Problem: For the last 8 years I've taken my 90 Targa MK3 from a perfectly stock, high mileage N/A car to a mildly upgraded turbo beast. From the start, my build was done with a certain power level in mind - 300-340whp. This is about where the 7MGTE ECU starts to say enough is enough. Fuel cut violently thwarts any attempt to suck in more air through the intake by shutting off fuel supply. If you don't know what fuel cut is or when it can happen, this event would probably make you think you just ran over a cinder block or hit a small deer. It's not a subtle experience. You can get around fuel cut, but it introduces a few new parts and potential complications for a daily driver. To go much beyond the limitations of fuel cut I would also need to consider a new transmission as the W58 has been known to grenade itself much above 350whp. My factory intercooler and piping was another limitation, as was the 50-trim CT-26 turbo. What I had created was an excellent, reliable 300whp MK3. I could keep up with most "sporty" cars on the road and could embarrass 99% of cars of a similar age... but I was up against a wall. A significant upgrade would require a lot of perfectly good parts to be removed and replaced with more expensive parts. In addition, I never liked the idea of high powered Targa chassis MK3s. The targa is nice, but it's flimsy and adds weight to the chassis. It was great for my 300whp plan, but wouldn't satisfy my ultimate MK3 goal. I wanted something newer or more powerful. I debated starting on a different chassis altogether and even went as far as putting dozens of hours of research into the BMW E39 M5 and lining up test drives. Before I worked up the courage to jump into the M5 I found a for sale post on Supramania.

The Solution: A 91 Turbo Hardtop MK3. It was the right year (91 or 92), the right engine (7MGTE), the right transmission (R154), and from a good region of the U.S. for old cars (California). It wasn't perfect, with faded paint, non-operable registration, and a drop-in JDM motor that smoked, but the price was right. One minor problem though - I live in Phoenix, about 850 miles away and this car was going to sell fast. I debated for a day or two while chatting with the seller and planned out what would need to happen if I decided to go through with the sale. It was early Friday evening and both my wife and I had work obligations Monday morning. To make the drive a viable option, we would have to cover 1700 miles in the next 48 hours. We would also have to abandon any pre-existing weekend plans. Google said the drive would take a little over 12 hours - and I'm sure that's true if you can somehow fuel up while moving and have Jimmy Johns deliver to a moving spot along the interstate. Leaving realistic time to stop to eat, gas up and sleep, we weren't left with much free time. I decided to go ahead with the purchase at about 7pm Friday. We (my wife, our dog and I) were on the road shortly after.

The Pickup: Of the 850 miles ahead, nearly all of them were in California. I learned two things during this trip about California: The roads are all terribly maintained and they have trailer speed limits. I would pick up a u-haul trailer mid-day Saturday as close to the pick-up point as I could. Timing dictated that I would have to pick up the trailer with a few hundred miles left before I really wanted to. As 12:30pm Saturday afternoon rolled around I had a very unsettling realization... I hadn't picked up cash yet. Not counting on a stranger to accept and IOU for a few thousand dollars I frantically searched for a bank near our location that was open until 1pm Saturday. There was one within striking distance, but we would only arrive 10 minutes before closing with good traffic. Thankfully we made it in time and walked out of the bank with a thick wad of hundreds soon to be traded for a 25 year old piece of Japanese metal. Close to the destination we drove through orchards of peaches, apples, plums, nectarines and other fruit. Roadside fruit stands were too much temptation and we made a rare side-stop to pick up a bag of amazing California peaches. Well worth the 30 minute delay. Arriving at the seller's house revealed the prize. It was exactly as advertised and after a quick 5 minute drive around the block I knew all I needed to in order to sign the title. Along with the car I picked up a couple boxes of parts including forged pistons, rods, lightweight flywheel, ARP hardware, etc... The next challenge was loading up the car onto the u-haul trailer. Anyone who's used a U-haul auto-transport may know that they aren't made for sports cars. They are made for your average clearance vehicle. Certainly not a lowered, long nose beast like the MK3 Supra. It took some awkward maneuvering and a few different attempts to finally get the car loaded up without major damage.



Now the drive home - at a California-mandated 55mph. This limitation was not something Google counted on. Our ETA back in Phoenix climbed as we crawled home at a whopping 60mph. Early on in the return trip I saw flashing red and blue in my rear-view. Shit. What now? Am I really going to get a ticket for going 5 over? The officer came up to the passenger side window, cautiously, and told us we'd been called in by someone who saw a large trail of sparks and thought the 911 operator should get an officer on the case. The rear of the car had dropped a few inches after loading up the car and the trailer chains were now creating a nice light show behind us on the freeweay. Oops.

1am rolled around and we decided it was time to find a hotel and resume the drive in the morning. Now, I've road-tripped a LOT in the last couple years. The Land Cruiser which was now carrying the 91 Supra has seen a little over 45,000 miles in 2.5 years... and I rarely use it to commute. Over the last dozen overnight stays I've always relied on late night calls to the graveyard shift desk clerk at a variety of hotel chains to help secure a room after most patrons have fallen asleep. Until this night it had never been an issue. On this night, however, nobody had vacant rooms, certainly none that would accept a dog. We passed Sacramento and hoped that in the few cities nearby we'd find a roadside motel. 10 calls to hotels... nothing. 10 more calls.... "Sorry, all booked". 10 more calls... "All Booked, sorry!" It was now 3am. 2 hours after I was ready to stop driving. I had never called more than two hotels to find a room. What the hell? We finally got in touch with a no-name "inn" that had a phone line answered by a tired and/or drunk individual who spoke English... mostly. He seemed to answer that they did have a room, but wasn't clear. He was located 45 minutes off our planned route and an hour away from our current location. Ugh. We called a few other places and got the usual, "no rooms" answer so redialed our fuzzy, non-english, inn-keeper to verify room availability. It was a significant detour, after-all, so arriving to a closed up, no-vacancy motel would have been crushing. Someone answered, said something that wasn't "Hello" and hung up. Great. Our best chance at some sleep on a real bed just disappeared into the ether. After a few minutes we called again and got a regular answer from the tired and/or drunk inn-keeper. As far as we could tell, he did have a room. Onto the detour we went...

The last day of driving was thankfully uneventful and just filled with typical California traffic and terrible roads. Crossing the border back into Arizona felt like driving on glass. The transition in road quality was abrupt. A few miles into AZ the road was German-autobahn quality and road crews were busy working to repave roads that at their worst were still better than the majority of California's roads.



We arrived home at about 11pm Sunday night and unloaded the car. With the new car tucked into its garage space the first chapter in this journey was now over. Now it was time to plan the project and make some shopping lists...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
618 Posts
A Yota hauling a Yota....I love it! LandCruiser's are the BEST 4x4's...PERIOD!

I got a 2000 4Runner 4x4 that I recently finished lifting and dressing up for trails, and I also plan on making it my "Supra hauler."

Can't wait to see the progress ahead...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
I feel very lucky after reading your post. I was in a similar situation with my Datsun. A very clean shell came up for sale for a dirt cheap price, only I'm in Denver, and the shell was in San Diego. Fortunately the seller agreed to hold onto the shell for a few weeks while I organized the trip down there. What I had no idea about is this Cali mandated 55mph law. I did 75mph pretty much the entire time. On the plus side, at least your recovery car ran and had wheels.

 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
2,275 Posts
Nice find, looking forward to you build, are you coming to SIV this year?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
920 Posts
Nice find indeed... Heck of a story though, I do wonder why the back of the cruiser didn't have a mattress in it?

I'm exhausted just reading that, and I have a long road trip ahead of us as well. Look forward to poking in here once in a while. :)
 

·
YotaMD.com author
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Nice find, looking forward to you build, are you coming to SIV this year?
Unfortunately not this year, Clint. Which sucks because I'm only 4 hours away. I have conflicts this year and I've already pushed my vacation limits at work anyways. Some people don't take advantage of "unlimited" vacation policies... I'm not one of them, haha. SIV will be a priority in years to come. This project should have some major progress by SIV 2017, though so hopefully I can make a good showing at that time. :)

Nice find indeed... Heck of a story though, I do wonder why the back of the cruiser didn't have a mattress in it?

I'm exhausted just reading that, and I have a long road trip ahead of us as well. Look forward to poking in here once in a while. :)
You know, that's the funny thing... It did, kind of. I am in the process of launching a sleeping platform for the Land Cruiser - A prototype of said platform was installed in the cruiser. Unfortunately we brought no pillows or blankets. I can use a couple shirts as a pillow and rough it for a night on the road, but my wife would be giving me a world-record-length-death-stare if I asked her to sleep on a board with no pillow, blanket, sleeping bag or bathroom while on an impromptu trip across the country to pick up another Supra. ;)
 

·
YotaMD.com author
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ookii-Ao-Part-2-Parts-thumb.jpg

Week 2: Parts

https://youtu.be/waAYZHwa8O8

Highlights from the video:
Pistons: Probe 20 over
Rods: Eagle H beam
Turbo: Undecided, bolt on would be nice, if not then maybe a GTX3076R or similar
Flywheel: Fidanza
Valve Springs: Comp Cams
Exhaust: Undecided, HKS Super Drager maybe?
Intercooler: Custom set-up likely I don't like many off the shelf options and universal is ugly
Head Gasket: HKS Stopper
ECU: Undecided, AEM or ECU Masters?
Clutch: Undecided. Twin plate would be great, but may not be in the budget
Driveshaft: DSS Aluminum or perhaps carbon

Next week: Stealth Voltmeter Install
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,926 Posts
View attachment 185505

Week 2: Parts

https://youtu.be/waAYZHwa8O8

Highlights from the video:
Pistons: Probe 20 over
Rods: Eagle H beam
Turbo: Undecided, bolt on would be nice, if not then maybe a GTX3076R or similar
Flywheel: Fidanza
Valve Springs: Comp Cams
Exhaust: Undecided, HKS Super Drager maybe?
Intercooler: Custom set-up likely I don't like many off the shelf options and universal is ugly
Head Gasket: HKS Stopper
ECU: Undecided, AEM or ECU Masters?
Clutch: Undecided. Twin plate would be great, but may not be in the budget
Driveshaft: DSS Aluminum or perhaps carbon

Next week: Stealth Voltmeter Install
A GTX3076R won't make 500whp unless you run E85, meth, or race gas.

I like the Wiseco 9:1's for a 7M build personally, I haven't used the Probes myself but I've read mixed stuff about them. Not worth the cost savings to me.
Sound performance might still offer a 7M-GTE bolt-on turbo, I know they did for a long ass time. Be worth an email or call to Reid.
I'd skip the Fidanza flywheel and stick with a stock one. Virtually no gain with some driveability trade-offs that make it not worth it unless you're NA and revving to the sky.
The BC valve springs work great too, especially for stock cams.
The HKS Super Dragger is one of my favorites, but the Tanabe Medallion Touring is awesome as well and very quiet. HKS still offers (or is selling old stock) of their 'Sport Turbo' exhaust which is 75mm but offers a 100% stock appearance.
Skip the HKS stopper HG, the 1.2mm bead HG is just fine. Use ARP studs but for the love of god don't torque them down more than 80 ft-lbs, you're just crushing aluminum on a discontinued head casting past that point.
The ECU masters EMU looks better every day, especially if you ditch the stock style ignition system.
The South Bend Stage 3 would be my go-to for a single disc. If you go twin disc, OS Giken.
I would keep the stock carrier bearing and go with a lighter or stock-style 2pc drive shaft personally. Again, lots of money to spend here that doesn't make a gigantic difference to me in my various ass-dyno experience with 7M cars over the years.

Very cool score, I'd love to find another MK3 project like that!
Looking forward to seeing it at SIV 2017! :beer:
 

·
YotaMD.com author
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
A GTX3076R won't make 500whp unless you run E85, meth, or race gas.

I like the Wiseco 9:1's for a 7M build personally, I haven't used the Probes myself but I've read mixed stuff about them. Not worth the cost savings to me.
Sound performance might still offer a 7M-GTE bolt-on turbo, I know they did for a long ass time. Be worth an email or call to Reid.
I'd skip the Fidanza flywheel and stick with a stock one. Virtually no gain with some driveability trade-offs that make it not worth it unless you're NA and revving to the sky.
The BC valve springs work great too, especially for stock cams.
The HKS Super Dragger is one of my favorites, but the Tanabe Medallion Touring is awesome as well and very quiet. HKS still offers (or is selling old stock) of their 'Sport Turbo' exhaust which is 75mm but offers a 100% stock appearance.
Skip the HKS stopper HG, the 1.2mm bead HG is just fine. Use ARP studs but for the love of god don't torque them down more than 80 ft-lbs, you're just crushing aluminum on a discontinued head casting past that point.
The ECU masters EMU looks better every day, especially if you ditch the stock style ignition system.
The South Bend Stage 3 would be my go-to for a single disc. If you go twin disc, OS Giken.
I would keep the stock carrier bearing and go with a lighter or stock-style 2pc drive shaft personally. Again, lots of money to spend here that doesn't make a gigantic difference to me in my various ass-dyno experience with 7M cars over the years.

Very cool score, I'd love to find another MK3 project like that!
Looking forward to seeing it at SIV 2017! :beer:
Good input, thanks. I'll consider all points.

The turbo selection was largely driven by Garrett's "adviser" feature on their site and the compressor map, but I was on the high side of the map where efficiency starts to drop. I've also been looking at the SP bolt on, but I can't seem to find a compressor map for it. Selling a turbo and not providing the compressor map seems... weird.

I was thinking the Tanabe and Sport Turbo exhausts may be a little restrictive much past 400whp, hence the Drager. I have a few friends that are very handy with a welder so a custom set-up isn't out of the question either.

On the driveshaft, I was very gung-ho for a two piece aluminum for years. I still am, but I had a hell of a time getting anyone to make one a couple years ago. Frank at DSS started the task (or so he said), but never finished so my black car just got a new (Anchor Ford Ranger) bearing which has held well. We'll see. The car won't get driven much, so the downfalls of the one piece aren't a huge concern anymore. A two piece aluminum or a 1 or 2 piece carbon are really the best options, IMO, but nobody offers such a thing to my knowledge. I'm slowly building a catalog of parts to offer for the MK3. Maybe I should make and sell a good driveshaft, haha.
 

·
YotaMD.com author
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Part 3:

Progress is starting slow for a few reasons: 1. Work. 2. I'm prepping the 90 targa car for sale. 3. I'm prepping a few items for sale via my site.

Once I sell the 90 things will really pick up speed though.

For this video I installed a volt meter in the headlight washer area. It's a part I designed and had 3-D printed in black plastic. I've installed one in both my cars and really like it. It provides a great reference reading that's far more accurate than the stock needle gauge in an NA and provides a reading where there isn't one in a turbo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6zLd5ZkwAA

Up next: Tint? Paint prep? Detail? We'll see!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
920 Posts
Meant to pop back in here on your last update:

-HKS Hi-Power Silent here. Not terribly loud, but has a nice tone. 85mm piping after the cat joint, flows pretty nicely and sounds good too. Note for reference, my "not terribly loud" may differ from yours. I have had an RS*R GTII and Blitz Nur-Spec on my 1j before, soooo... this is much more tame. Drove a car with the HKS Sport on a 7m, was perfectly stock sounding until you really got on it. Rather liked that exhaust, but not sure how it flows once you start putting some power out.

-Like the stealth voltmeter, looks like it belongs. Well done!

-Bought a one-piece carbon shaft for my car, an R154 equipped Mk3. Forget exactly what I paid for it, but it wasn't all that much more than a quality aluminum shaft. Do I notice anything particular about it? Can't say, other than the fact it is WORLDS better than my clapped out carrier bearing was on my stock shaft. Otherwise this is my only experience with an aftermarket shaft. It does weigh 11.2 lbs though, so it's a nice drop in overall weight, nevermind whatever benefit might come from less rotational weight. Believe I bought it from Titan, box (and possibly the joint for the diff) says PST, or Precision Shaft Technology on it. Might look into that one...
 

·
YotaMD.com author
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Meant to pop back in here on your last update:

-HKS Hi-Power Silent here. Not terribly loud, but has a nice tone. 85mm piping after the cat joint, flows pretty nicely and sounds good too. Note for reference, my "not terribly loud" may differ from yours. I have had an RS*R GTII and Blitz Nur-Spec on my 1j before, soooo... this is much more tame. Drove a car with the HKS Sport on a 7m, was perfectly stock sounding until you really got on it. Rather liked that exhaust, but not sure how it flows once you start putting some power out.

-Like the stealth voltmeter, looks like it belongs. Well done!

-Bought a one-piece carbon shaft for my car, an R154 equipped Mk3. Forget exactly what I paid for it, but it wasn't all that much more than a quality aluminum shaft. Do I notice anything particular about it? Can't say, other than the fact it is WORLDS better than my clapped out carrier bearing was on my stock shaft. Otherwise this is my only experience with an aftermarket shaft. It does weigh 11.2 lbs though, so it's a nice drop in overall weight, nevermind whatever benefit might come from less rotational weight. Believe I bought it from Titan, box (and possibly the joint for the diff) says PST, or Precision Shaft Technology on it. Might look into that one...
Hey, thanks for the info. I'll keep it in mind! Exhaust is at the top of my list right now so that decision will have to be made soon!
 

·
YotaMD.com author
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Part 4: Baselining

My 90 has been sold, which has freed up funds for this project. I ended up getting $8k for the 90 gte swapped targa chassis. I left all the goodies on the car as the new buyer negotiated inclusion of everything, including the 5zigen wheels.

In this installment, I go over some of the basics of buying a new Supra - or really, most any used car. I changed out the motor oil, trans oil, diff oil, coolant and inspected the car's underside to hunt down any looming failures. Thankfully there were no big surprises other than my gear oil pumps (yes, plural) failing. After giving my garage floor a bath of oil and coolant and getting a workout pumping gear oil into the diff, the car is one step closer to being truly road worthy.

Things not shown in the video include:
- A battery test and charge using a CTEK 25000 charger http://amzn.to/2iYfW7o
- New Tires (perhaps to be featured in a future video if it seems worthwhile)
- Hood Strut replacement http://amzn.to/2iY3bts
- Exterior and Interior clean

Upcoming:

I just bought a radar detector and have an upcoming 1000 mile road trip from AZ to CO coming up. I'm moving and have to get the car to my new place in CO. I can either pay a trailer company $400-600 to trailer it and potentially rip the bumper off, wear out the starter and battery playing musical cars on the trailer or I could turn it into an adventure with a buddy and do a solo rally. So I decided I'd be better served by making an experience out of it and bought a Valentine 1 and started planning the trip. I'll document that as it's own video. Should be fun.

I bought a set of tires (BFG Sport Comp 2) that might get their own video.

I'll be buying an exhaust ASAP once I'm moved and in a new home. I didn't want to buy the exhaust prior to moving and just have another large piece of metal to transport cross country.

Turbo. So the car smokes at start up and a little under load. I'm guessing it will fail CO emissions. If that happens my first recourse might be to buy my future turbo (perhaps the bolt on 6262). If the turbo isn't the cause of smoking then it'll probably just need a rebuild and I may have to dive into that sooner than expected.

Thanks for reading/watching and let me know what else you'd like to see covered!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzvqozHbA-w
 

·
YotaMD.com author
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
PART 5: Road Trip

I moved from AZ to CO. The car had to make the trip somehow. I could have trailered it or had a professional trailer it, but that's not cheap. I decided to let the car get itself across state lines. The trip was smooth and comfortable - just like a Supra should be. 900 miles of straight driving with only 24 minutes of combined stop time. 2 Gas stops. That's it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n76WCtb1fJs

The car passed emissions with "Fast Pass" status, meaning it wasn't even close to failing. That came a big surprise since it was smoking considerably just a few months ago. Driving it occasionaly seemed to clear up the smoke and I reinstalled the factory exhaust (including downpipe) so that helped.

Exhaust is the first major upgrade I'm planning. It's needed for my ultimate goal of 500 whp and beneficial immediately with the stock motor. I'm leaning heavily towards Tanabe's Medallion Touring. Good sound, relatively low cost. After that I'm really not sure what will follow in regards to upgrades. The majority of the rest of the plan will be best rolled out as a package all at once with the engine out.

I've got my first baby due any day now so updates will probably remain sparse. I suspect this project won't be a priority in life . My garage has gotten some attention recently and I plan to install a 4 post lift this summer/fall. That should make the man cave, or "garage-mahal" more enjoyable. Not to mention, more practical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
920 Posts
Glad to hear that your move went smoothly. I may be thinking someone else, but have you moved between AZ and CO a couple times now? I seem to recall you being a member on the AZ forums in the second half of the 2000's.

Anyway, congrats on the kiddo, I'm sure that will shake up whatever sense of priorities you and the missus have haha. Sleep, I suspect, will become a bigger one. As for the lift, I have a four post in my garage. While it made building my car possible with the mechanical strength that I simply don't have as a ~125 lb guy, I would offer a couple suggestions.

For one, I can only recommend a four post over a two post in the following circumstances:
-Either you need the parking space that a four post allows, or
-You need to have a lift that can be moved around the garage as necessary.

In almost every other situations, a two post would be preferable. Doing subframe removal and installation is a real pain in the butt with a four post. Really, any undercarriage work is MUCH easier with the two post. The only issues there are the lack of portability, and the structural consideration that you have to make. Putting all that weight on two relatively small points puts a bit of stress on the concrete, hence the concrete PSI rating needs to be a bit more stout, and possibly a bit thicker, depending on your garage floor's current thickness.

My second suggestion would be to plan for the largest, heaviest vehicle you see yourself owning. I bought a Bendpak 7000 lb lift, and while it is quite adequate for what I need, I do believe that their 9000 lb model would have been a better fit. Why? Width. Turns out, Supras are fairly wide cars, and my lift is only about 75" wide at the outer edges. Once I do the widebody conversion to my car, I'll have to have a set of wheels just to get on the lift... as is, I'm within an inch on either side. This also raises the issue that if I ever own an exotic of just about any variety, I won't be able to get it on the lift. Have a few acquaintances that I've offered to let them use the lift for inspections, fluid changes, that sort of thing, but there are some that simply won't be able to get on the thing due to the skinnier width. Definitely something to consider if you're set on a four post. Two post, this doesn't really apply as much.

If you have any specific questions about use, regrets, or installation, that sort of thing, feel free to either update this thread (I'm subscribed), or PM me and I'll get back to ya.
 

·
YotaMD.com author
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Part 6! Super simple and basic. Life's been busy as we added a family member this spring so my progress is slowing more and more.

Enjoy and subscribe!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
920 Posts
I dig the youtube updates man. Might be a decent way to do build threads now that photobucket has turned against its initial purpose...

Anyway, you've given me another thing to check out. I don't recall ever hearing that noise, nor do I recall seeing those nylon caps, but I don't think I've ever really spent much time at full lock either.
 

·
YotaMD.com author
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Overdue Update!


You have to know where you are to know where you're going. The car had its BIC downpipe removed for emissions recently and I kept it in its stock form until I could dyno it. Results were about what I expected, but there were a few surprises.

Power: 179 whp @ 5411 rpm
Torque: 207 ft-lbs @ 3400 rpm
AFRs: 13:1 @ 3500 rpm
10.0:1 @ 5411 rpm
Boost: 6 psi falling to 4.5 psi

The boost dropoff wasn't something I expected. I can feel the car doesn't have the top end that my last mk3 had, but I've never stared at the boost gauge during a redline pull to actually see boost dropping so significantly. Simply adding an electronic boost controller might steady boost at the manifold. The CT26 should be more than capable - even in stock form - to hold boost pressures up to 12+psi up to redline.

AFRs were surprisingly lean near peak boost, but I'm skeptical of the accuracy of the clip-on-muffler AFR sensor used during the runs. I'll get a real wideband plumbed in at some point - hopefully before the next dyno.

Next Steps:

  • Exhaust is already installed. 3in turbo back. BIC divorced, recirc'd downpipe; 3" hi-flow, metallic cat; Tanabe Hyper Medallion Touring - Video coming up next
  • Engine Build?
  • Standalone?
  • Interior Touch-up?
  • Body Work/Paint?
I feel like the engine build is probably the most universally useful. I've got some leaks still and the current engine is a big question mark as I haven't had it open. I've got some parts on hand, but will need more, certainly. My current Probe pistons I'm debating selling to fund some higher CP pistons to boost my mid-range torque. I want to have the most linear power band possible and I think bumping pistons to 9:1 or higher would go along ways in doing that. I've got a lift in the garage now so doing a winter build seems almost like a requirement, haha.

What do you guys think? What's the next step towards a 500 whp build?!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
715 Posts
On an unknown bottom end, I'd say your next step would be to open it up and build it. Good pistons (I'll second the Wisecos) and some ARP rod bolts should be plenty for a reliable 500hp motor.
 

·
YotaMD.com author
Joined
·
699 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
On an unknown bottom end, I'd say your next step would be to open it up and build it. Good pistons (I'll second the Wisecos) and some ARP rod bolts should be plenty for a reliable 500hp motor.
I'm staring at the .020 over 9.1:1 Wiseco right now. Selling my current probes and lightweight flywheel would just about cover that pricetag and be a big step towards being prepared for a winter engine build. I also need an ATI damper and a few other odds and ends. I do have the full set of ARP hardware standing by, ready to go though!

For head and block machining, I'm figuring $2k for complete, but basic work. I've done a bunch of head jobs, but never had block machining done. I figure $1k is pretty safe for head work, but is $1k a safe estimate for block work? I'm thinking a clean, magnaflux, line hone, cylinder hone/bore as needed (using 7M torque plate) and cleaning up the deck. I'd like to do assembly myself and would like to do as much "blueprinting" as I can, but I I'd have to invest in some tools so maybe that's not worth doing myself.

Input is welcome!
 
1 - 20 of 56 Posts
Top