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Sounds like you've made your decision there Andy. Teal always did look nice on a Mk3, I've seen a couple of them in Vegas over the years.

Was gonna suggest that you give me the blue interior, but my car is green, so it's not like it'd be any better a match for me...
 

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Discussion Starter #42
First two coats of high build primer done!

I had a near catastrophe when a wind storm came out of nowhere and I hadn't secured part of my booth yet. Wood frames fell over, the ladder in the pic below fell INTO the f-ing car, masking paper tore, walls started collapsing into the center of the booth. Horrible timing. Thankfully the impact to the paint work was minimal, but that was very demoralizing to have to redo a solid 30 minutes of booth setup when I had already mixed up the epoxy primer and was about to shoot.

Products used so far:
Omni MP170 Epoxy Primer
Omni MP282 2K Urethane High Build Primer


Next up:
Blocking the high build and re-applying where needed. I'm not expecting a show car perfect finish, but I do want it to be better than your average paint job prep.
Sealer if needed. (MP170)
Basecoat. Omni Plus or DBC. I was set on DBC before this latest booth catastrophe. Due to the unpredictable weather, I had to open up the intake filters and let in a lot of unfiltered air. Not a big deal on the high build coat, but that would be terrible on the base/clear. I'd feel dumb spending $1,100 on high-end base and clear only to have 25 dust nibs on each panel. Omni Plus with Deltron Clear is around $750. DBC Base and Deltron Clear is closer to $1,100. Decisions, decisions...
Clear. This will be done the same session as base. I don't like delaying clear. Wet on wet. Base, then immediately clear.
Begin next round of paint with doors, bumpers, trim, nose panel, lower rocker panel, etc...

Wetsanding. This will remove orange peel (which I hope will be minimal with the high-end clear) and remove dust nibs and fisheyes.
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YotaMD.com author
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Discussion Starter #45
Always a little bit of a pucker moment when you realize you're looking at close to $2k worth of paint.

Can't wait to see how this turns out.
Yeah. I was very aware of every muscle movement opening up that gallon and pouring into the mixing cups. When I cleaned up the mixing cup and gun I was thinking, "I'm probably washing away $5 worth of leftover paint just along the walls of the cups." Oof.

Big picture though, totally worth it. I should have base and clear done today. It'll be a huge relief once I can roll the car out of the booth and move onto the doors/fenders/bumpers.
 

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Back when I painted for a living I'd end up with 4-8oz left over in my cup sometimes and never gave it a second thought. Totally different mindset when that's your money sitting in the cup.
 

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Alan, can you perhaps enlighten me on why automotive paint is so expensive? I mean, house paint isn't exactly what you'd call cheap, but in comparison... yes, I realize it's not the same stuff, but I'm just curious what it is about automotive that makes it so special.

Andy, hang in there bud, like you say, big picture!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Base and clear done!

I only did two coats of the clear. The hood has some "mottling" (I think that's the right term) where the base or metallic flake has some noticeable patterns. I could see my gun spraying non-homogenously (not a word, but you get it) in that area so I think it was just sprayed funny. Had the hood and roof gone perfectly, I would have considered a third coat on those areas. Since they're not perfect I'll call it good for now and move on with life. If it bothers me I may re-do it, but I have a feeling I'll forget all about it soon as I move onto other things.

Back when I painted for a living I'd end up with 4-8oz left over in my cup sometimes and never gave it a second thought. Totally different mindset when that's your money sitting in the cup.
Yeah. I ended up with about 6 oz of leftover clear today. That's roughly $32 wasted because I mixed a little too much clear when I was paranoid I'd run out mid-hood. Oh well.

Result as of tonight:

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Damn hood mottling I'll have to live with for now...
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Alan, can you perhaps enlighten me on why automotive paint is so expensive? I mean, house paint isn't exactly what you'd call cheap, but in comparison... yes, I realize it's not the same stuff, but I'm just curious what it is about automotive that makes it so special.

Andy, hang in there bud, like you say, big picture!
Auto paint has a lot of chemicals and compounds in it before you even get to the pigments that give you your color. Stuff like xylene, titanium dioxide, methylethyl acetate, etc. Getting all those compounds to play nicely with one another takes a lot of work and science smarts so a decent chunk of the cost is going towards the development costs. You'll also note that the vast majority of the stuff in paint is a hazardous material. EPA most likely has a rather expensive licensing process for manufacturers but I can't confirm this.

Then the pigments. You can have the best base but with a crappy color mix the whole paint job will suffer. Most manufacturers are pretty tight lipped about their color compounds and for good reason. A good color compound makeup will last longer, spray evenly, maintain color consistency, etc. better than something using lesser quality pigments/dyes. Some colors use more exotic pigments than others contributing to a higher cost. Red, for example, tends to use pure copper as part of the base pigment, some light blues and silvers use titanium.

I can't really speak to house paint and latex is a whole different beast from polyurethane and acrylic lacquers but there is a small insight into the higher costs of quality auto paint.

The hood has some "mottling" (I think that's the right term) where the base or metallic flake has some noticeable patterns.
The joys of metallics and pearls. Mottling or clouding is what I always referred to it as. Lot of things can cause that but directly related to the gun are: too high of a pressure at the cap, not enough air volume (HVLP issue), wrong fan pattern, or wrong nozzle/needle size. If you catch it before clear coat there are some ways to correct it but after clear it's sand it off and start over. Not fun sanding off $600 worth of paint
. Especially when you paid for the paint


I ended up with about 6 oz of leftover clear today. That's roughly $32 wasted because I mixed a little too much clear when I was paranoid I'd run out mid-hood. Oh well.
Worst case if you run out you can wait a few days, wet sand then re-clear, but it's honestly better to have some left over.

Withhold judgment until you roll it out in the sun and see how everything looks. LED lighting has a way of making things look different than natural light, even if the LED color temp matches natural light. Looks pretty damned good for my second favorite MK3 color.👍
 

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Appreciate the education there Alan, thanks. I never realized so much development went into paint colors, honestly. Knew about the hazardous chemical makeup of it, to a small extent, and I wouldn't be surprised if the EPA had a hand in there somewhere.

Andy, the car looks good if you ask me bud. You're doing something few of us have the gall to attempt, and the result looks quality. If you're anything like me (and it seems you are) then you'll be your own biggest critic. It's both encouraging and a kick in the nuts some days, so you have my sympathy. My advice is just to keep moving forward and to accept that this is all a learning process. I know I tend to do things better after the first time teaches me what not to do...

I'd second Alan's recommendation to wait until you see it in the sunlight. :)
 

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That's a good color for these cars alright... I say the more of them the better, original or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Doors and fenders installed, rolled out into the sunlight. Prepping bumpers and spoiler now, then just need to do all the smaller misc pieces. Headlight covers, mirrors, door handles, etc...

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