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LexusTico
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok after searching I found that most people just wanted to know how to get the bolt off - mine's off already.

People then asked how to remove the pulley once the bolt was off, and they were told to use a puller. Problem is I used a pulley puller I rented from the auto parts store last time i did this and ended up stripping the first couple of threads on my crank bolt hole with the cone shaped tip that goes in there... I had to re-tap the crank.

The other thing that happened was that the 3 'fingers' that hold the pulley to pull it out broke the edges of the pulley cause it's very brittle. Granted it doesn't matter because I'm replacing it anyway, it made removing it even harder.

I don't want to go through that again so can anyone recommend a specific brand of puller and where I can find it? Or does anyone have any other means of doing this?

TIA
 

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OCC
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The center of the pulley has two small threaded holes in it. Attatch a '2-bolt' puller with the correct pitch bolts. If the puller tip fits in the threaded hole where the crank bolt goes, find a piece of metal to slip in there to prevent the puller from working it's way into the threads.

SST works great for removing/torqueing the crank bolt.

sushi
 

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I've got a Sears damper puller. I seem to recall there's more than the two threaded holes - isn't there three? Anmyway, the Sears puller has worked fine for me and has an attachment for a flat nose if you want.
 

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The crank pulley has 2 threaded holes. These are METRIC and not standard like the bolts that come with most pullers. Either use the correct metric bolts or re-tap the holes so you can use a standard bolt
 

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LexusTico
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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the replies guys, i'm going to run by a couple of auto parts stores and sears and see which puller i can find that'll work the best.

too bad i'm a grown up now and i work so i won't be able to do this til the afternoon but hopefully i'll have her back up and running by tonight.. if not i'll have to wait until tomorrow afternoon :(

note to self: don't grease outer lip of front main seal.
 

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Medium Ballin'
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LexusTico
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Mike! I'd really appreciate that. I saw on their website that they have a couple locations down here in the S Fl area but they're either too far north or too far south, i'm smack in the middle :rolleyes:

I'll see if I can find a comparable puller at one of the auto parts stores nearby but if I don't I might have to wait until the weekend before I can head down to either of those Harbor Freight locations.. maybe even later as my girlfriend and fam are moving this weekend.

wow I sure picked a great time to do this :rolleyes:
 

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Shawn Davis
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My problem was that even with those types of pullers the conical tip would engage the threads (sounds like you've seen that before). I went to home depot and got a pipe end cap (metal) that was just a bit larger than the threaded area. I place it over the threads and put the conical tip in this cover. Worked like a charm.
 

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Medium Ballin'
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Ubermensch said:
My problem was that even with those types of pullers the conical tip would engage the threads (sounds like you've seen that before). I went to home depot and got a pipe end cap (metal) that was just a bit larger than the threaded area. I place it over the threads and put the conical tip in this cover. Worked like a charm.
the one i use has 2 sizes of tips. one is large enough that it does not contact the threads.
 

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LexusTico
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I found a puller at AutoZone. Part number 27019 for the rental and part number 25053 for purchase.... it's the same item though. Advance Auto Parts number Ampro T73876

The way I avoided digging into my threads was I put the crank bolt back in just a few turns and rested the conical tip of the large screw on the bolt. voila! :D

now i've got another issue :rolleyes: check my other thread, 56k warning http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=268229
 

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Sorry to bring this back up from the dead but I stripped some of the threads in the crank bolt hole. I was wondering what size tap I need to use to re-tap it?
 

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adammackintosh.net
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that sounds like it should be correct
 

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Regarding taking out the crank pulley and reinstalling it, where do we have to align the lines on the crank pulley? do we have to align both the pulley and gear to where it was before we opened it or to the point that align the point on timing cover?
Thanks Again sorry for the ribirth of this forumXD
 

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adammackintosh.net
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Regarding taking out the crank pulley and reinstalling it, where do we have to align the lines on the crank pulley? do we have to align both the pulley and gear to where it was before we opened it or to the point that align the point on timing cover?
Thanks Again sorry for the ribirth of this forumXD


follow the manual.

i marked my crank gear with a permanent marker so i could easily set timing. which is easy if you mark it before you take the original timing belt off.

i believe you can align the crank gear timing mark to engine block matchmark but i have a feeling they dont line up exactly (based on my memory)
either read the manual and follow it as recommended by toyota... or you can align the marks and put the timing cover on and crank damper see if the TDC timing cover marks are aligned correct.

the crank gear and #1 timing cover have 2 different marks. i believe the timing cover mark @ 0 degrees TDC is about 10 degrees advanced compared to the crank gear.

wow i hope im making sense here this is hard to describe.

when i set my timing i use the marks from my permanent marker. and essentially i need to turn the crank gear to align the stock indentation marks and then turn the crank about 10 degree back which lines up my permanent marker "marks" and then put on the timing belt. then you have to spin the crank 360 degrees TWICE and then re-verify that the timing marks are still lined up.

remember its a 4 stroke so the crank turns twice for every camshaft rotation.

in short: follow the manual.
 

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