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Hardtop FTW
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1,784 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Q's about ARP bolts... Could not find specific answers when searching, so sorry if this has been covered.

I am looking for ARP hardware for my buildup, and suprasport says that the main studs interfere with the oil pump? Can someone confirm this? If so, where can I find a main BOLT set? I haven't been able to find them anywhere.

I'm also planning on going with head studs. How much should these be torqued to when used with a cometic MHG?

Thanks,
Collin
 

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Unnaturally Aspirated
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330 Posts
Order from any ARP authorized dealer and ask for the updated Stud kit which comes with 2 bolts for the ones by the pump. It came out quite a while back. Torque values are listed in the instructions that come in the head stud kit, they vary with lubricant used, make sure to follow them exactly. IIRC, it said 86 ft/lbs when used with the moly lube that comes with them. Don't forget that if you get the rod bolts, you will have to get the big end of your rods resized and put back to round by a competent machine shop.
 

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Hardtop FTW
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1,784 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Disco Stu said:
Don't forget that if you get the rod bolts, you will have to get the big end of your rods resized and put back to round by a competent machine shop.
Why is this necessary? You are talking about cutting the caps and honing the crank bore on the rod back out to size, correct? Now if the rods are already round, when why would it matter what bolts I use?

Also, how bad of an idea is it to reuse the factory rod bolts?
 

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Unnaturally Aspirated
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330 Posts
The principle for the rod bolts is the same as the mains: why trust your brand new motor to 16 year old bolts that have already been stretched and torqued? Once the rods have been disassembled they must be remachined because of the minute differences in roundness when the metal is stressed.
 

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Premium Member
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673 Posts
Yes, ARP has updated the main stud kit since finding out about the interference problem with the #3 cylinder main cap studs with the oil pump and the pick up tube. IF by chance you buy an old kit and encounter this problem call ARP and they will send you 2 replacement bolts for those 2 studs.
 

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Engine Geek
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359 Posts
the main reason you have to resize rods after a bolt change is because the bolts are press fit in, and will never press exactly the same way...and then the cam aligns itself off the new bolt. it usually works for about 10k miles before you spin a bearing.
 

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Madd Tyte JDM yo ®
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7,014 Posts
i highly doubt you will be able to even FIND the old stock of main studs... i ordered a full set of ARP's from Josh at HPF, and all my bolts were on back order for a month because no one had stock anywhere. the main stud kit came with two bolts to make clearance for the oil pump and the pickup tube. i would HIGHLY recommend taking the ARP rod bolts and main stud kit to the machine shop when you drop off your engine.

the old rod bolts need to be pressed out and the new ones have to be pressed in. pressing the old ones out and the new ones in cause the rods to distort minutely. once the rods are torqued together, they will have a different bind and distortion compared to the original setup. so the big ends MUST be rehoned to even out any distortion that installing the new bolts creates.

also, on the same token, the main saddles of the block MUST be align-honed after being fitted w/ studs. installing the studs and then puttng the main caps down over them has a tendancy to make the caps seat in a different location the stock bolts do. when this happens, it could be shifted in such a way that it causes the crank shaft to bind every so slightly. once the studs are fitted and torqued, the block should be honed out to alleviate any distortion and mis-alignment from the New fasteners and fitment.

My shop gave me these prices;
$72 install new rod bolts and resize the big ends
$48 to hang the new pistons on the rods
$165 to install main studs, check for distortion and align hone the main saddles.

check and compare
 

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Hardtop FTW
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1,784 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thank you very much for this information. I didn't realize that I would have to align-hone the mains too... I guess I need to go to the local machine shop and find out what they charge. They have done a lot of work on Hondas, so I'm betting that they are precise enough to do this right.

flubyux2 said:
i highly doubt you will be able to even FIND the old stock of main studs... i ordered a full set of ARP's from Josh at HPF, and all my bolts were on back order for a month because no one had stock anywhere. the main stud kit came with two bolts to make clearance for the oil pump and the pickup tube. i would HIGHLY recommend taking the ARP rod bolts and main stud kit to the machine shop when you drop off your engine.

the old rod bolts need to be pressed out and the new ones have to be pressed in. pressing the old ones out and the new ones in cause the rods to distort minutely. once the rods are torqued together, they will have a different bind and distortion compared to the original setup. so the big ends MUST be rehoned to even out any distortion that installing the new bolts creates.

also, on the same token, the main saddles of the block MUST be align-honed after being fitted w/ studs. installing the studs and then puttng the main caps down over them has a tendancy to make the caps seat in a different location the stock bolts do. when this happens, it could be shifted in such a way that it causes the crank shaft to bind every so slightly. once the studs are fitted and torqued, the block should be honed out to alleviate any distortion and mis-alignment from the New fasteners and fitment.

My shop gave me these prices;
$72 install new rod bolts and resize the big ends
$48 to hang the new pistons on the rods
$165 to install main studs, check for distortion and align hone the main saddles.

check and compare
 
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