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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Couple questions:

1. I am making my own turbo intake pipe. I would only like to make a BOV return tube on the pipe and route the PCV hose to a catch can. What I wanted to know, is what exactly is the hose to (the one that goes near the TB)? Can I cap this off or put a breather filter on (prefered), or route to the catch can as well?

2. What is the black canister that is located near the passenger side next to the fire wall used for? Is there anyway to eliminate this canister or get around it? I would like to mount my catch can here due to the lack of space in my engine bay. If not, is there another spot I can "clearout" to make way for it?


Thanks....
 

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Dr Wheelspin Rh.D.
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4,393 Posts
1. For removing the PCV system you need to cap the line at the throttle body and the one on the accordian hose. Do not use a breather on either of those points as that will cause a leak. Just run the two lines from the cam covers to your catch can.

2. Charcoal canister, you can eliminate it. Do a search, the topic has been covered in depth.
 

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Dieselboy said:
Couple questions:

1. I am making my own turbo intake pipe. I would only like to make a BOV return tube on the pipe and route the PCV hose to a catch can.

The PCV port would still need to be there. The catch can just catches/condenses the oil vapor and keeps it from burning in the engine (and dirtying all the intake piping). Our PCV system needs vacume to work properly, just venting the catch can to the atmosphere won't do.



What I wanted to know, is what exactly is the hose to (the one that goes near the TB)? Can I cap this off or put a breather filter on (prefered), or route to the catch can as well?
Idle Speed Control valve (idle speed stabilizer). Basically it's a valve that bypasses the turbo/IC/throttle body and lets in some air to make the car idle as smoothly as possible.



2. What is the black canister that is located near the passenger side next to the fire wall used for? Is there anyway to eliminate this canister or get around it? I would like to mount my catch can here due to the lack of space in my engine bay. If not, is there another spot I can "clearout" to make way for it?
Thanks....
Charcol canister. It has to do with the gas vapors from your gas tank. You can remove it, but its a sure-fire way to fail visual inspection when you smog.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Re: Questions regarding intake hoses and "black canister"

ma71supraturbo said:
1. The PCV port would still need to be there. The catch can just catches/condenses the oil vapor and keeps it from burning in the engine (and dirtying all the intake piping). Our PCV system needs vacume to work properly, just venting the catch can to the atmosphere won't do.




2. Idle Speed Control valve (idle speed stabilizer). Basically it's a valve that bypasses the turbo/IC/throttle body and lets in some air to make the car idle as smoothly as possible.




3. Charcol canister. It has to do with the gas vapors from your gas tank. You can remove it, but its a sure-fire way to fail visual inspection when you smog.
1. The PCV is routed into the intake pipe which does not see vacuum pressure. Basically I wanted to route the line to a catch can instead of the intake pipe.

2. So can I use a breather filter on this or route it to the catch can as well? I dont see why not because the pressure inside the accordian intake pipe, once again, is not vacuum pressure.

3. Here in Washington we dont have smog inspections or visual inspections of any sort when it comes to emissions. We DO however still have emissions. Will I still be able to pass emissions by eliminating the catch can? Searching now for the how-to....
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I answered my own question regarding the charcoal can. removal. I will remove the the char. can. and either leave the hose vented near the ground or I may even route that back into the catch can that will be replacing the char. can. I totally forgot that I left my char. can line vented in my Eclipse GSX :D
 

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Flying Dutchman Pilot!
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2,172 Posts
You know while we are on the subject I think I'll stir everyone up some. A few months ago my engine had bad compression, upon tear down I found out I cracked a few ringlands. I got a lot of blowby out the exhaust because of this. Before I knew I had this problem I was playing with the PCV system, so I figured the best place to troubleshoot was where I was last messing with everything.

I tried 5 different PCV setups.

1) Each valve cover hose independently routed to a Jazz catch can and the can breathed to the atmosphere.

2) Each valve cover hose independently routed to a jazz catch can and the can only routed to the throttle body.

3) Each valve cover hose independently routed to a jazz catch can and the can only routed to the intake.

4) Each valve cover hose independently routed to a jazz catch can and the can routed to both the intake and throttle body.

5) Stock

Conclusion: Stock PCV gave me noticeably less blowby than every other setup. Next best setup was #4. Theoretically they are the same setup in terms of design, but I guess all the spaghetti like hose plumbing, plus the vapors having to run through the can slowed the vapors down some, compared to the bullet proof, short plumbing of the stock setup. I know its nice not to have oil in our IC pipes, but I'll sacrifice that to minimize blowby anyday. I feel evacuating those vapors is a very important thing. At least I was able take advantage of my blown up engine and get some useful information out of it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, here is what I decided to do folks:

- I ripped the snazy Summit coolant overflow bottle out from my GSX (since shes not running right now).

- I then removed the charcoal canister from the car as well as the bracket holding it.

- Using some very minor fabbing, I made the bracket so it will mount the Summit bottle exactly like the charcoal canister. I then connected the evap. hose that went to the char. can. to a small nipple, then into the Summit bottle (small left hose into can).

- I retained the coolant overflow hose, as I will use this for the ventilation of the bottle (rear right side of can going down into engine bay).

- Using the other hole, I routed a hose from the PCV pipe, to the canister (right hose on top of can), and viola :D

Basically its a catchcan/charcoal canister in one. We'll give it a week and see how it does, but I tried to immitate the charcoal can. the best I could. I think I did a decent job ;) I will post some pics tomorrow.
 

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what about having the catch can vent back into the exhaust after the turbo? Anyone try this? I have done this on my race 440 v8 and yes it will smoke a bit, but you get some really tight ring seal!
 

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Flying Dutchman Pilot!
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Thats a great idea, I have been thinking about trying that when the warm weather rolls around. A lot of domestic guys do that, with a check valve.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Drove to work this morning and everything seemed fine. My idle was a little bit on the low side, but I think my drained battery pertained to that...well have to wait and see.

I didnt smell any gas fumes either. In fact, the only smell I did notice was the paint on my home made intake warming up :)

BTW: The 1G DSM BOV sounds excellent vented or recirc'd (sounds VERY similar to the GReddy Type-S BOV). Vented you get a long whiney whistle, and recirc'd you still hear it (just not as loud), but also get a nice loud hollow "goooshhhh". I personally like the sound better recirc'd as well as the smooth driving.

Just FYI: The 1G DSM BOV can hold boost efficiently at WOT till around 15psi, then it will start to leak (it also does leak SLIGHTLY at idle and light throttle, but the valve stays shut at WOT). You can however get it to hold up to 22psi efficiently and not leak even at idle by doing one of two mods:

1. http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html (the one I consider the less-needed and a bit overkill mod).

and

2. Is to "crush" the BOV by crushing the top hat of the BOV (near where the vacuum nipple is) to create a stronger vacuum and to keep the valve seated longer, and to close quicker after release. This is one of the common "free mods" that are done with the 1G DSM's. You must be careful doing this, as if it is crushed to much, the valve will not open properly causing compressor surge which can possibly/eventually ruin your turbo.

I am stating this info because I think the 1G BOV is a great stock BOV and it is dirt cheap (can be had for $30-$40 used on most DSM sites). Another benifit for those of you who eventually want a GReddy Type-S, is that the 1G BOV flange is compatable with the Type-S. You simply drill the holes for the screws in the flange and cover the old ones, thats it. The flange otherwise fits directly on the Type-S. I will post pics of my catch can mod as well as the BOV and pipe I made tonight after work :)

Edit: Just also wanted to point out that I did notice some gains in the small pipe and 1G DSM BOV as well.

- It obviously holds boost pressure better
- Its obviously louder (vented as well as recirc'd)
- Noticed a bit of top end difference as well as accel. (probley because of the hardpipe).
- Also noticed louder spool even before my homemade intake. With the intake and BOV recirc'd, the turbo spools about as loud as I have heard on a modded MKIII with turbo back exhaust and 10psi. Cant wait to get exhaust and hear this puppy really breath ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Well, here are the pics of the catch can mod:

Left hose back to firewall = Evap. hose to old can
Middle hose toward motor = New PCV re-route
Right hose down toward ground = Ventilation hose




 

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25psi = 14" brakes :)
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I have mine vented, but used all the stock ports, just don't burn the vapors anymore. (There are pics on 7MPower.)
I went from the throttle body port, to both valve cover vents, and then to a K&N filter that is just sitting loose on the right strut tower next to the AFM and IC pipes.
Seems to work great. Does not leak oil, and it allows the throttle body port to draw off the vapor like stock under no boost conditions, and keeps the IC pipes and my FMIC nice and clean. (Dry as a bone in there.)
I also use the now vacant accordian hose port for the second BOV. (Also a great "free" mod.)
 
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