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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
It is the same insert used on 7m heads. I called ARP to make sure that this would be the correct insert, and they assured me that it is. Supra Store, and Titan have them listed on their site for the 2jz if you do a search. I have not thought about using another washer, but I think I will call and ask them if this would be necessary.

Aluminum heads like these in my opinion need this done especially on the exhaust side. Don't be cheap and not do this. I paid about 75.00 to have it done plus the cost of the inserts from Summitt.

quake
Toyota Master Tech
Joined Apr 13, 2005
1,449 Posts
Discussion Starter • #34 • Oct 29, 2012
so the inserts came in today and i dropped one off at the machine shop to be fitted. with these in you will not need to put on a washer with the nut, just a nut to assemble. They are thin wall and the top looks pretty much like a standard arp washer


This is a direct answer to the question about a extra washer on top of the insert by Quake.


This is the information link above.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I called ARP today and the technician told me that you do not need to use the washers with the studs on top of these inserts.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Amazing! Thank you very much. I figure the beefy collar up top on the insert would be the washer and what applies load to the head.
This is how it seems to work. And my torque wrench had no problem stopping after reaching the required torque of 80ft lbs. The old 7mgte head kept needing to be retorqued and the results were collapsing of the stud holes around the stud

On a happier note the block was just installed tonight. Tomorrow I will start finishing the install.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
I bought a 9/16 reaming tool from Cleveland Aircraft Tool 2225 first street, Boone, IA 50036 515-432-6794.

Part number RFS916 9/16 STRAIGHT FLUTE REAMER the price was 21.00 plust tax. I took this to a machine shop and had them machine the head. I paid about 75.00 to have it done. The holes need to be straight for the inserts to work, and you don't want the holes deeper than the bottom of the insert.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,956 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
AMSOIL BILLET DUAL FILTER MOUNT installed on front left bumper frame where tow mounts were. I needed to order longer hoses from aeroquip, and a few fittings. Earls billet inline thermostat installed under radiator support using holes for bottom engine cover.

Autozone agm battery remote mounted in rear hatch replaced with Northstar agm 31 battery. The Autozone battery froze from sitting. Oddessey batteries have the same freeze issues in the Northeast, and they claim if the battery freeze their warranty is void...avoid Oddessey batteries. Oddessey parent company bought out Northstar....go figure.

Battery installed with 0/1 gauge copper wire to the block and to the front power distribution block with a circuit breaker near the Noco battery box. I RAN 2 Ground wires from the block to the body.

I needed to order a broke engine mount and ordered 2 from Rockauto..
This body is 1989 but it probably is early 1989 since the mounts are square.

I will decide if I will need to install metal mounts in the future. Blackdevil supra said that the square mounts are indestructible.

Wiring harness is installed and wires in the engine bay are good to go 👍 😀 👌

I just have to get the battery connected and the inside power to key ECU 🔑 👌 setup properly.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
I got everything installed wiring and all. The only thing left is to find the muffler hangers to hang the muffler. I tried cranking it over Friday and the starter cranked real slow. I have a brand new Northstar 2150 agm battery, and I was thinking since it has been sitting for a while I may want to charge it a bit.

My friend has a big boost battery charger and set the charge to start which is about 40 amps. The starter cranked slowly and sometimes began clicking....starter relay style issues in the 7mgte even though I replaced it not long ago.

I left the key on and tried to troubleshoot the relay issue, and smoke started coming from under the intake. I disconnect the battery QWIKLY, and inspected all wires from the ecu under the intake, and everything looked fine. I raised the car on the lift and I could not see any burned wires. I started thinking that everything is fused and relayed so I may have a starter issue.

I touch the starter, and I feel it is hot to the touch on the solenoid. I look up what makes a starter crank slowly and the troubleshooting says that a slow cranking starter is caused by loose wires or the starter is failing. I look up what makes a starter smoke and it seems over charging or to much current can cause this. I started thinking when I hooked the big boost battery charger and left the key on while troubleshooting finished what seemed to be a failing starter. I ordered a new starter from Rockauto yesterday.

I had everything going smoothly fuel wise but I think that I need to check certain wires since I may not have had spark. The EMU Black is not activating, or the ignition wires are not connected properly. Its all relayed with Tyco 75 amp relays, and all fused and all fuses are intact. Close but no cigar.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,956 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Tried to start this after installing new starter and the motor stopped spinning. I took out the starter to make sure it didn't get stuck or is binding. I tried to spin the motor by hand and it would not spin. I finally got it to turn in reverse but it seems to stop at a certain point. Something is preventing the motor from spinning freely. I need to pull the motor to see whats causing the bottom end to bind. The cams spin freely on the intake and exhaust.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Well it's warming up here in NY, and I finally checked the head by removing the CAMSHAFTS, and each bucket to make sure the valves are not bent. All Valve Springs and keepers are in perfect condition and the head spins freely, but the bottom end does not.

I must now prepare and make time to take the motor out of the car, and inspect the bottom end. I hope it's not the oil pickup tube nut that went flying, and could not be found on the floor or in the block.

I was given a intake manifold that expands under boost to get it started last time out so I replaced it with a DEEP MOTORSPORT DUAL FUEL RAIL INTAKE MANIFOLD. I wanted a single rail intake but the dual was all that was left and after a month of waiting I decided to go with the dual setup.

I ordered 6 more BOSCH 550CC injectors to go with the 1200cc BOSCH ev14 FUEL INJECTORS. E85 30% and 93 octane yields about 100 octane for street driving, and probably a C16 tune second map for track.

To power 12 injectors I decided to bypass Haltech 2500 for the PROEFI 128 since it has 12 direct sequential fuel injector drivers straight out of the box.

Now I just have to get back into my friends garage to get the motor out.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,956 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I FINALLY took the motor out to see why it would not spin. I could turn it 180 degrees then it would stop. After I took the motor out and broke the transmission loose I tried to spin the motor by 🔧and it now spins freely.

This is beyond weird since with the tranny bolted on it would only spin in a 180 degree range. The pilot bearing is new and turns freely. Just to be certain I will drop the oil pan and check everything out and reassemble everything and try it again.

I should e starting it up soon I hope.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,956 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Ok....Today after disassembling the head from the block, removing the oil pan, and checking a few rod caps, and the main caps, and thrust washer I found the bottom end to be immaculate.

There is no scoring or scratches on the crank, and the cylinders are in the same condition. I removed the oil pump, and the bottom end now has full rotation. The screw from the oil pickup tube fell into the hole that has the o ring, and got lodged in the oil pump.

This is an original oem brand new never started oil pump. Will I need a new pump.....hmmmm.

Problem is now solved I should be up and running real soon.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,956 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I am waiting for the oil pump ordered online fron conicelli toyota online for 189.00 delivered. Almost there.
 

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475RWHP 449TQ and climing
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5,956 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
It's been a long arduous task, but it is coming together finally. I took a lot of bumps and bruises to get this far. I broke a bolt in the block where the top oil pan resides.

While trying to remove it with an extractor the extractor broke, and I drilled it out with a m42 bosch cobalt drill. In the mean time my proefi 128 arrived and I need to install the motor now that it is assembled and rotating freely.

When it starts I will finally be able to do things like make it a wide body.
 

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so in order to use those ARP sleeves instead of washer, the stud holes needs to be reemed? also you still wanna sell the emu black with harness?
 
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